I also have "clamps" on my tie rod that look like "hose clamps" over the threaded part of the tie rod end (along with jamb nuts). If you have those they need to be loosened too. You can see it in the picture below. If you squirt the threads the night before with some type of penetrating oil, you should be able to twist the tie rod by hand.

 

Thanks X, Havi and Julie, and all other. This FTE place sure make it go a lot better,..especially for us newbies.
I got the toe in dialed in pretty close to what has been suggested. The "tie rod" also referred to as the " connecting rod tube and the spindle connecting rod tube" in the shop manual turned for adjustment real easy. The tie rod is also referred as the whatcha-ma-call-it by the newbies here in my garage. I also was able to tighten up the free play at the gear box, as per your leads as well. THANKS.
I took it for a short spin and it felt a little shakey at 55 MPH ( maybe road condition ) but it settled right down as speed increased to today's top speed of 65 MPH. I was looking for rough road conditions that may instigate a wobble but did not find any thing to test it with on this run. The free play is cut way down and that in it self makes the ride easy and fun.
Now I need to get the grease for the gear box and I can get to cruising until the next round of stuff......12V conversion or Adjustable lifters

 

Your tires may need a few (like 200) miles to "adjust" (wear in) to the new alignment.

Honestly, I'd drive it for about 5-10 miles, then check the toe-in again - just 'cause.

 

Listen to Julie, she knows of what she speaks! And (if you haven't already learned from your wife or girlfriend) ladies are ALWAYS right! (ducks for cover...)

 

LOL....what can I say?