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does the check engine light always go on ....

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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 03:18 PM
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Thumbs down does the check engine light always go on ....

hello all! my Q is, if sensors go out on a aerostar, does the check engine light always come on?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 08:41 PM
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Depends on the sensor and the way the computer is programed to look for failure.
Some sensors like coolant and tps will throw a code if disconnected...Some sensors need repeated failure events..which sensor are you refering to.
Welcome to the forums...
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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Does the Check Engine light come on during the bulb test when you first start the engine? If not, the bulb may be burned out or missing...
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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thanx, the light works, i unplugged the MAF and it came on.(didnt run any dif either) its got no pickup, and im trying to figure it out. once im going like 20mph, it seems to respondfair, but not like it was.oh, its a 93 3.0 with 158k, burns no oil.i just put auto-lite 764's in it yesterday and still a dog.im a pretty goog mechanic, but all these sensors could be expensive to go thro.mabe a injector? the front pass side plug was kinda powdery rust when i pulled it.any input is welcome, i know tons about these vans, not sensors.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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Power issues...
Running on all six?
fuel pressure up to spec?
exhaust clogged?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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How long has it been since the fuel filter was changed? Could be starving for fuel.
Could also be the throttle position sensor. When the TPS went bad in my old 95 3.0 the engine surged & dogged repeatedly under acceleration, but ran fine at constant speed.
Have you pulled the computer codes?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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this happened after over heating. water pump went, but i kept water in it till i got home.runs cool now, i put new wires on it before this i dont think they fried again.didnt check the fuel pressure, and the cats dont seem to be clogged,have a cherrybomb on after them. how plugged would the cats have to be to effect ?mabe the FF is partially blocked.and auto parts stores around me dont check codes older than 96 cars.
and the FF probly has 158k on it. im thinking i need the codes.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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im gonna try a fuel filter. it needs it anyway.
come to think of it, it runs bad when down to E, and ive had it sputter going around a turn with 1/4 tank...why when its pressurized.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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96 was the first year for OBDII. Your 93 will be OBDI and you can check the codes by putting a jumper (paper clip) in the assembly line diagnostic link (ALDL) and counting the flashes of the Check Engine light. The ALDL connector should hang off the harness near the master cylinder. Search the forum to find the code retrieval procedure.

While you are pulling the codes you can also do a cylinder balance test: the engine runs & stops firing one fuel injector at a time. The computer looks for the RPM to drop when each cylinder is "off". The balance test will tell you if you have one or more cylinders not contributing 100%. If the engine overheated there is always the possibility of a blown head gasket, cracked head, etc. The balance test can help diagnose such problems.

If you can't find the code retrieval & balance test procedure, send me a PM. I haven't used my OBDI reader is a couple years & would have to search for it, but the booklet details the procedure. I'm going out of town until Thursday so I won't be able to look for it until then.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 03:07 AM
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The cylinder balance test can only be run on engines with sequential fuel injection, which is 1995 and later. The 1994 and earlier models have bank-injection, so that test can't be run on them.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 10:47 AM
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im pretty sure the heads not cracked or blown gasket.radiator stays full and theres no popping or drip out the exaust. FF is going in today, $11.99 part.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 04:55 PM
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put the new FF in,seems to be alot smoother. the old one looked like it was dented- from what idk. ill know if its improved when i start it after it sits a while. the presssure is pretty high, i dis-cond the gas fail reset and ran it out, it still was under pressure. the saga continues............
 
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by aeroAL
im gonna try a fuel filter. it needs it anyway.
come to think of it, it runs bad when down to E, and ive had it sputter going around a turn with 1/4 tank...why when its pressurized.
When vehicles become old, naturally sludge will accumulate at the bottom of the gas tank. I wouldn't recommend anyone to let their engine go down to below 1/4 tank left because of this. Especially if the vehicle has ever sat for a few months without usage... I've nursed 3 vehicles (the Aero, an '87 VW Fox, and a '92 Nissan NX) over the 300,000km mark, and I made/make it a point to change the oil regularly, and never go below 1/4 tank for the gas. Just some food for thought.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 11:46 AM
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still not right. after it sits for a few hours, it barely starts then after idling few mins runs weak till revved up or driven around. very frustrating.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
The cylinder balance test can only be run on engines with sequential fuel injection, which is 1995 and later. The 1994 and earlier models have bank-injection, so that test can't be run on them.
Not true, all 3.0L engines have sequential fuel injection (but not EDIS). The 4.0L doesn't official get the SFI till 1995, but my 1994 has it.
 
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