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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 09:41 PM
  #1  
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Question Speed control switch.

I just got the speed control de-activation switch as mentioned in the Recall 09S09 , and Im going to change it, is there any tricks, tips to do it? or just unscrew and screw it?, do I have to bleed the brakes?
Any contrs in the change it for the old one?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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I thought it was a new pigtail not a new sensor?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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If it is like mine then you pull the plug on top of the brake master cylinder, plug in the new pigtail, plug the original into the other end of the pigtail, and finish the beer you just opened. You may wanna curse or throw something so the lady doesn't think it was easy. All in all about a 20 seond job not including opening and closing the hood.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Arrow

Originally Posted by Talyn
I thought it was a new pigtail not a new sensor?

Originally Posted by redman84
If it is like mine then you pull the plug on top of the brake master cylinder, plug in the new pigtail, plug the original into the other end of the pigtail, and finish the beer you just opened. You may wanna curse or throw something so the lady doesn't think it was easy. All in all about a 20 seond job not including opening and closing the hood.
William and Jacob,
It came with a new sensor and a new pigtail, thats the reason I asked. Thank you anyway.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 12:47 PM
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Thats weird. Sorry man. Maybe you can figure a way to just leave the old sensor and toss the new one. Or not... It's my understanding that the fuses are what the recall is based on being that originally there are none there.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by redman84
Thats weird. Sorry man. Maybe you can figure a way to just leave the old sensor and toss the new one. Or not... It's my understanding that the fuses are what the recall is based on being that originally there are none there.
Do you have any pic of your new pigtail, and where is suppose that the fuses are in? Because my new one is VERY similar to the old one (only different pn). And I really dont know if the sensor is the same as my original or not, so Im confussed and I dont know if a should (must?)change the sensor or not, mine is not leaking and looks fine; but you are right, I also understood that you only has to change the pigtail ???.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by redman84
Thats weird. Sorry man. Maybe you can figure a way to just leave the old sensor and toss the new one. Or not... It's my understanding that the fuses are what the recall is based on being that originally there are none there.
The recall is for the switch. The switch leaks and a fire can result. The fuses are a safe-guard against a fire starting.
Jose when the dealer performs the recall they install a wire harness between the stock harness and the switch that has a fuse or 2 in it. It's a tangled mess of split loom and electrical tape and you can't really see much but if you need I can snap a pic for you.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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Lightbulb

Originally Posted by superduty4x4
The recall is for the switch. The switch leaks and a fire can result. The fuses are a safe-guard against a fire starting.
Jose when the dealer performs the recall they install a wire harness between the stock harness and the switch that has a fuse or 2 in it. It's a tangled mess of split loom and electrical tape and you can't really see much but if you need I can snap a pic for you.
Chase, Thank you very much.

Well, after a research, in summary I came with the conclusion that I should change the new switch and the harness, because Ford found that brake fluid could leak through the cruise deactivation switch into the cruise system's electrical components and cause corrosion. Corrosion can cause a short and keep the cruise control from working, but in some cases it can lead to a higher flow of current that can overheat and cause a fire at the switch. fficeffice" /><O></O>
The models that are included in the recall all seem to have constant power to the switch even with the ignition off & keys removed. But like stated somewhere, our trucks do not supply constant voltage to the switch when the ignition is off, but we can still have a potential problem while driving. The good news is that it sounds like they are just putting a fuse in the circuit to stop the problem.
Fixing the problem: To repair trucks, Ford will install a jumper harness between the cruise control deactivation switch and the cruise mechanism. The harness will act as a circuit breaker and will turn off the current at the switch if the switch becomes shorted.<O></O>
If you only change the harness (NEW fused link) and not the switch in the master cylinder, I guess if the brake fluid leaks thru the seal into the electrical end of the switch, now the fuse will blow and kill the power into the defective switch to keep from feeding power into the switch and its good, but you loose both the switch and the harness.<O></O>
Now the change is pretty straight forward:
Get new switch and new wire fuse link. Comes in a kit.
Get new switch ready by tipping upside down. Drop in a few drops of brake fluid into the new switch. Get all necessary wrenches all ready, close by. 9/16 and i believe 11/16.
Unplug wire
Unscrew old one.
Quickly thread new one in when you see the brake fluid coming up. And tighten, Snugly do not over tighten.
A drop of dielectric grease on each end of the fuse link connectors
Plug in Fuse link wire to switch. Plug in factory wire into new fuse link wire.
Zip tie up nice to not<O></O>
That simple and could potentially save your truck!<O></O>
Here are some links that I reviewed and some pics<O></O>
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/892779-recall-speed-control-deactivation-switch-inspection.html<O></O>
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/648151-ford-cruise-control-switch-recall.html<O></O>
http://put.edidomus.it/auto/pdf/news/141009_Incendi_Ford.pdf<O></O>
http://www.ford-forums.com/ford-f-series/33554-cruise-control-doesnt-activate-speed-control-deactivation-switch-recall.html<O></O>
http://www.rvappraisals.com/ford-fires.htm<O></O>
http://www.rvappraisals.com/newsletter/crash0505.pdf<O></O>
<O> </O>
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eppic60/2008-03-29_215522_Recall_08S01.pdf<O></O>
 
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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Well done.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #10  
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Talking

Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha
Guess what.......






















After all this thread, the research, the questions, story, etc, etc, etc, when I was gotten the KNOWLEDGE and was VERY WELL PREPARED to install the new stuff, you are not going to believe it, the OP was already changed it. Ohhhh my Godness. I should look underhood FIRST.
the good thing is that NOW I have a spare kit. ()
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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Well at least you learned a lot!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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Dealer Changeout

I didn't know you could get the kit to do it yourself.

I showed up at the dealer. They checked the VIN. I opened the hood. A mechanic checked the switch and changed the pigtail. Closed the hood and I was heading back to work in less than 10 minutes.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:40 AM
  #13  
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Talking

Originally Posted by superduty4x4
Well at least you learned a lot!

Yeap, now Im a MASTER

Originally Posted by jmpape
I didn't know you could get the kit to do it yourself.

I showed up at the dealer. They checked the VIN. I opened the hood. A mechanic checked the switch and changed the pigtail. Closed the hood and I was heading back to work in less than 10 minutes.
Yes you can buy the kit yourself (AS I DID !!!). I live in Mexico so the recalls seems not to work here, I did not receive any letter from Ford, and here the dealers dont know about it , so thats the reason I bougth it.
 
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