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I know that the F-250, 350, etc are not included in the official current recall of the cruise control switch, but according to the photos & part numbers I have seen it appears that most of our vehicles have the same switch. To my understanding the problem only occurs because of the constant voltage that is present in the circuit even with the ignition off. I have tested the circuit on my truck and there is no voltage present when the ignition is off & the key removed. I'm sure someone knows alot more than me about this matter. Do we need to just replace the part to be on the safe side?
the reason your trucks and mine are not covered is because of what you just said, no voltage with key off, our trucks will only catch fire when we drive them, not when we park them, replace it anyway and save the receipt, after enough people die and sue then they will extend it to the diesels
I had the truck in yesterday for a water pump and my buddy and I were talking about this. The switch is the exact same as the recall.....and there is no reason that our trucks can not burn down when you have the key in the aux or on position. $10 for peace of mind is very little to pay! (Next to owning a PSD being thhe best thing in the world, is having a good friend who is a Ford Master Mech who also owns a PSD and getting parts at cost!)
Guys, which recall is this one? Is it the one for the switch on the master brake cylinder?
Yep. And my Ranger was one of the affected vehicles. Since our trucks don't have voltage on the switch full time, there's no chance of it happening unattended. However, it is a relatively cheap part, so if you're concerned, get one.
EDIT: If you're not familiar with it, there is a switch for deactivating cruise control on the brake master cylinder. The membrane between it and the electrical part was breaking down and fluid was getting to the electrical parts which has battery voltage on it all the time. Very poor design in my book...
Here's a list of all the vehicles with the switch. Unfortunately not all the vehicles listed ar part of the recall. Only the models that have had enough catch fire.
As stated above:
Ford found that brake fluid coul leak through the cruise deactivation switch into the cruise system's electrical components and cause corrosion. Corrosion can cause a short and keep the cruise control from working, but in some cases it can lead to a higher flow of current that can overheat and cause a fire at the switch. The models that are included in the recall all seem to have constant power to the switch even with the ignition off & keys removed. But like stated above - our trucks do not supply constant voltage to the switch when the ignition is off, but we can still have a potential problem while driving.
1997-2002 Ford Expedition
1998-2001 Ford Explorer
1998-2001 Mercury Mountaineer
1998-2002 Lincoln Navigator
2000-2003 Ford Excursion
2001-2002 Ford Explorer Sport
2001-2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
1993-2003 FordF-250 1993-2003 Ford F-350 1993-2003 Ford F-450 1993-2003 Ford F-550 1993-2002 F-Super Duty 2001 F-Series Super Crew
2002-2003 Lincoln Blackwood
2003-2004 Ford F-150 Lightning
Plat7.3 or someone else can you verify this? The switch looks different than the one that is currently in my truck, I just don't have alot of confidence (because of past experiences) with my local Ford Dealer.
Plat7.3 or someone else can you verify this? The switch looks different than the one that is currently in my truck, I just don't have alot of confidence (because of past experiences) with my local Ford Dealer.
........ just got back from my local dealer and what they have is a fused link that goes in line between the switch at the master cyl and the C Control,in other word's,if the switch fail's it blow's the fuse in the NEW fused link ,hopefully it will blow before it get's hot enough for the switch to set the brake fluid on FIRE , question,why not just put a new switch in, I could put this anouther way,but I dont want to get banned from this site. goes along the line of what the ....... were they thinking.the link at the bottom of white buffalo's post back's this up as being what you get,I came here looking for a part # as I thought it would be a Switch,not a fused link.
The silver item with the orange cap is the new switch. Remove the cap and place a few drops of Dot4 in the end. Than remove the old and quickly replace with the new. The jumper is then connected to the harness and to the new switch. That simple and could potenially save your truck!
Here are a couple of pics of the part I bought today.
............ I see by your 2nd photo that they sold me a fused link and sold you the switch,I see a red cap'ed item and that's the switch which is what I thought I would get,I already put my link in so tomorrow I'll go back with photo's of your's and ask them what's up???,my p/n # is ...4w1z-14a411-bc and state's it's a wire asy,cost me $9.80 with out tax,thought that was cheep,what did you pay?? ,on the link in your other post they state that the link is to blow before the switch over heat's ,so I may be ok with that,just think it's strange to not replace the switch in the 1st place.Thank's for the post with photo's.
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