Would you recommend SOLID U-Joints?
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Brentwood, CA
Would you recommend SOLID U-Joints?
I have '73 F100 with a big block that I primarily use for sand dunes. It seems that every dune trip I end up breaking a u-joint in the front D44. It's usually caused by a cap cracking. I only use the Dana/Spicer joints, but they still break on me. A few companies like Yukon, CTM and OX make solid u-joints, that don't have rollers and are said to be really strong. That might solve my problem, but I don't know if they are only intended for rock crawling/slow speed (low friction, low heat) applications or if they would work for my type of wheeling too.
Is anybody using these? Think they'll solve my problem.
Thanks!
Ben
Is anybody using these? Think they'll solve my problem.
Thanks!
Ben
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
They should work if you use a moly-graphite grease in them and maintain them properly. You really should replace the axle shafts as well, since they typically get damaged by a trashed universal and can cause later joints to fail much sooner than they should.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 733
Likes: 2
Most systems have some sort of engineered weak spot. If its your u-joints that fail now and you upgrade to bulletproof solid pieces, then your weak link may end up being your axle shaft, driveshaft, transmission input or output shaft, or a whole host of other bigger, more expensive parts. I use cheap u-joints so I can keep a stock of them in the truck. That way I can control what part breaks when I'm out having fun. That way i'm more confident I won't snap another axle shaft, locking hub, or driveshaft. If you can count on your u-joints failing, it sounds like you have a well engineered truck, IMO
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