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Step One Restore Question.

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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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Step One Restore Question.

To ever has some ideas and could help,

I am starting the restore of my recently purchased 1977 F-100 Ranger. It's 2 wheel drive and short bed.

I want to restore the entire truck over the next 24 months. I want to customize some things however just want a lifetime truck and I don;t care about resale value.

There is some rust on the common areas however the underneath is in great shape. The cab mounts, flor pans and bed are in great condition. Some light surface rust. I want to start there with the sanding and priming. I was thinking on doing chasses as well. I was thinking on buying a small sand blaster and working it a little at a time.

Question: What should I use to prime it for now as I go. Once I get it all done (the entire body too) I will then turn it over to a paint shop to paint however I want to do the hard work but I need to be able to drive it as I go too. I am going to be using the truck every day.

How should I sand, prep and what primer shoudl I use. Is there a chasse paint I can use as I go or should I just prime and let the paint shop paint the chasses and underbottom? I was thinking on maybe having the bottom sprayed with and under coat thick stuff? Anyone know what the best options are? And is there something I should spray into areas I cant reach to stop any more rust from occuring?

Any help would be great. I am a newbie at this stuff however good with my hands. I am a carpenter and builder by trade now wanting to add novice body and engine guy to my resume. LOL It's going to be fun.

Bill
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Just my .02.

I really wouldn't piece meal the bodywork. Ideally clean everything up, treat the steel with something like metalwash or one of several similar products then primer with an epoxy primer that you can do you body work over.

If you must piecemeal it, the primer probably isn't that important, as it will have to come off and be sealed when you go to do you final body and paint (though if you are going to do some welding to make repairs you want to use a primer that will allow you to weld through it.

As far as chassis is concerned, I would recommend you use the search function, as it is sure to start and argument. There are several products such as POR 15, Chassis Black, Expoxies, and I'm leaving out a bunch.

Finally, if you are going to sandblast confine it to small areas. IT is a lot safer and more economical to have major blasting done by a professional. The media is toxic unless you have the proper safety equipment. A pressure blaster take a lot of air so unless you have a big compressor pushing a bunch of air it will take you forever to blast a big project and like I said it really is pretty cheap to have done.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by hp246
Finally, if you are going to sandblast confine it to small areas. IT is a lot safer and more economical to have major blasting done by a professional. The media is toxic unless you have the proper safety equipment. A pressure blaster take a lot of air so unless you have a big compressor pushing a bunch of air it will take you forever to blast a big project and like I said it really is pretty cheap to have done.
I would like to know how the sand is toxic because I,ve been breathing a whole lot of it and have had anything bad happen yet.

As for blasting and painting the frame. I would definately roccommend getting a sand blaster. The only thing is you better be planning on taking the stuff apart (leave springs, etc) becaus every time it moves it will make a weird crunch sound if it is not cleaned out. I just got done blasting my frame and it is awesome compared to a wirebrush. As for the frame paint I used Chassis Saver, Seemed to work pretty good. Good luck with it.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 650
I would like to know how the sand is toxic because I,ve been breathing a whole lot of it and have had anything bad happen yet.
I would suggest you read this: Silicosis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Check around. The last time I checked you can have a frame blasted by a pro for about $250. They do in in a couple of hours. Once you balance the health risks, the cost of the equipment and your time, $250 is pretty cheap for something you'll do once or twice.

I have the equipment including the respirator. I've done it exactly once. I'll pay to have the frame blasted next time.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hp246
I would suggest you read this: Silicosis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Looks like I am gonna buy a respirator.

When I did it for my truck it cost about $80 for the sand blaster, I forget what sand was. If this is your only time you are gonna do this and you can haul it, probably pay some one. If you have a more projects, I would definately reccommend a blaster.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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From: shamokin pa
you said you wanted to use something for the frame of the truck....my cousin used hammer finish from rustoleum, he used it for his bush buggy and that stuff is strong, it never scratched or chipped, and it stops rust as well if im not mistaken...i never used it but on his trail truck it looked to have held up, its been on for a few years now and still no chips or scratches... [url=http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=29RustOleum.com[/url] Hope it helped and post pics with your progress!!



Shane
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 650
Looks like I am gonna buy a respirator.

When I did it for my truck it cost about $80 for the sand blaster, I forget what sand was. If this is your only time you are gonna do this and you can haul it, probably pay some one. If you have a more projects, I would definately reccommend a blaster.
I sandblasted my frame in my driveway. I have a 100lb sandblaster that I bought from Harbor Freight and a 5 HP Ingersol-Rand air compressor w/ an 80 gallon tank. It took me three days pretty much non-stop and 1600 lbs of 20/30 sand to do the frame.
Having the sandblaster I also blasted the axles, rear housing, differential, etc. later.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 07:54 AM
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To the OP. You really cant do the body work and drive it while you are doing it in pieces UNLESS. you paint it as you go. Primer will not seal out water and the panel will start to rust from behind unless you seal out the elements. If you are dead set on doing it that way i would do a panel, prime ,paint and assemble. THen then you have everything done you can take it to a body shop ti have them spray the whole thing again. Dont be surprised if they will no guarantee a dam thing sine they dont know about any of the prep work
 
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