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After removing the replacement Drag Link from my old 1980 Custom to install on my 1980 Ranger, I saw that it was approx. 3/8 inch shorter. Before tightening down my Tie Rod ends and get it all aligned, I want to make sure this shorter length Drag Link isn't going to pose any problems. It all seemed exactly the same except the length. It screwed into the other rod clamp no problem. Just want to double check before going any further.
It will pull your steering box off center. If you carefully count the number of turns on BOTH tie rod ends, you should be able to turn each one the same amount and get it to line up without throwing the steering box off and without throwing your toe alignment off.
If you are going to take it to a shop, and your steering wheel was perfectly level before all this, then take it in and tell them you want the steering wheel level WITHOUT TAKING THE STEERING WHEEL OFF, and they should be able to bring it back in with the tie rod ends like I described above.
Counting the turns wont work if the new one is a different length. You should compensate for the length difference when installing it if you want the toe in close (You DO want that as close as possible or it will eat tires and the front will want to slide in corners). To answer your question though it should work with no problems, they dont specify different drag links for customs vs rangers
Well, the old one took 27 turns to release. With the shorter one, I turned it in 20 turns. I haven't tightened down the clamp and tie rods yet until I heard back from you guys. I don't what to have to use that pickle fork again to loosen a tie rod. There's always the possibility of damaging the rubber.
You can adjust the tie rods without taking them off. But it sounds like you are going to need to take it to the shop to get it right. Tires are too expensive not to. And if the steering wheel is right, they can line it all up so it will be level across where the horn buttons are.