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ok i was driving to work today and at 65 MPH and the drivers side rear wheel locked up..... yea that was real fun almost got hit by a dump truck...... i belive i have that narrowed down to a busted break shoe which is being replaced under warranty..... but there is also now a noise that sounds like worn bearings that wasnt there before so i want to get new wheel bearings for the rear i know i have the sterling 10.25 because it takes 3 inch brakes but now the question is which one.... i have read there is a full floating and semi floating and they take different bearings
Most likely a full-floater, the only semi-floats I've ever seen were in light-duty gasser F250, never in a diesel. Look at your rear axle tho, if the hubs are sticking out the center of the wheels and there are 8 smaller (than the wheel studs) bolts on them then it is a full-float axle.
alright well then its a full floating axle.... the bearings will be in but..... the wheel seals are 38 dollars a piece! do i need to replace those or are they reusable? do i even take those out when im replacing the bearings i would assume so but i figured i would ask
well... you can, but only in a pinch... just go ahead and get new seals and some new 80-90W and you shouldnt have to touch the rear end for another 200K
ok so i dug a little deeper and now see that the wheel seals show up as inner seals..... im replacing the outer bearings.... what seal am i supposed to be getting
There is just one wheel bearing seal, it's on the inboard side of the wheel hub where it meets the axle tube. The outboard seal is between the axle shaft and the hub, and it's just a large o-ring, those hardly ever go bad cause all they do is just sit in there, unlike the inboard seals that actually rotate with the hub and thus do wear out.
Also if you have the limited slip rear make sure that the oil you use is for the ls rear. It has friction modifers for the clutchs. Regular 80-90w is not good for them.
I myself never replace wheel bearings without replacing seals. I usually turn the hubs and do new brakes at the same time, including rebuilding or replacing wheel cylinders. Nothing worse then doing a brake or bearing job and a month later a cylinder start leaking. My theory is that it's a pain in the but job and if I am going to do it... I only want to do it once.
Also if you have the limited slip rear make sure that the oil you use is for the ls rear. It has friction modifers for the clutchs. Regular 80-90w is not good for them.
Unless your clutches are semi-worn already, in which case the proper oil with the proper amount of friction modifier can make them slip bad. In my axle I run straight oil, no modifier, and the clutches still don't grab as hard as I want them to...
well what oil would that be that has modifiers in it i know right now it has heavy duty lucas 80-90 i dunno if that oil has them or not????
and i did a complete brake job..... new springs new shoes turned drums new cylinders new everything on the brakes.... i guess i just got sold a bad set of shoes and the one crackeed