anyone have any experience with it. pros / cons ect. i have large amount of rust scale on my 51 and this looks like a solution but looks too good to be true. when removing rust is there something im overlooking or should i go ahead and DIY with por-15. in dire need of some explanation and stories. procedures

 

A quick search turned this up: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results

 

Hi just my two cents worth but if you paint over a dog poo its still a dog poo all thats changed is the colour!!!

 

i'll assume yer gonna scrape it and clean it . but as far as the por 15 seem too be two extremes . it either seems too work real well or it's crap . no in betweens , so i'm gonna geuss it's the user thats the difference . oh and don't get any on you . it takes a long while to wear off . i'd just paint it after cleaning it . or maybe bed liner . just my opinion .

 

I have used it, and results are based on the surface and preparation. First, I have found that all scale must be removed, as it will bond really good to the scale, but if the scale falls off or gets loose, the metal underneath is then unprotected. Also, it works best with a slightly rough and rusted surface. It does not seem to hold to clean or fresh metal for me, but if I dust the surface with a sandblaster, then leave in out in the rain to get a little rusty, the POR 15 holds really well. I really like it for battery trays and battery boxes - it is the only thing that I have found that holds up to the fumes and spills of the older style removeable cap batteries.

 

I bought a pint of their Manifold Grey. I meticulously removed and prepped my manifolds, looked great for a month then started peeling. I re-applied the stuff and it appears to be holding.

 

I did my frame and other parts, works great on freshly sandblasted or rough surfaces, it will not stick to new smooth metal. Also it sticks to your skin for about a week or so, wear gloves.

 

It doesn't really remove the rust, it encapsulates it. It's great stuff though and a real time saver when it comes to frame prep. I've been down the sand blast and paint road and it lasts longer than that but it won't stick to new metal. I tried it on my boxing plates and it just peeled off. Now I'm letting my boxing plates rust a little before re-applying...

 

I used Zero-Rust, have had no peeling issues.. they provide a rust neutralizer prep..

I wish I had used the gloss instead of satin..

sam

 

I used the roll on bed liner because it was about a 50/50 split on if POR-15 worked or not, the best part about it is the bed liner is only 46 bucks a gallon at walmart and its really hard to scratch...

 

3rdshift,
I have used POR-15 and I like the product. I have used it on smaller parts like the door regulator, window channel, and unlock rod mechanism but I have not used it yet on larger parts. The most important part is the prep. I always wire brush the parts before chemical prep. I have not read here where anyone mentioned the "Marine Clean" or the "Metal Ready" that is made by POR-15 and both are recommended prior to applying POR-15. I think this prep will prevent any problems. Also, you will find that even when you apply with a brush, POR-15 dries very hard and smooth. Use it, you will like it.

Stephen

 

To start, this is not directed at anyone in particular, just a few ramblings of my own thoughts, experiences, and observations with POR products.

In reading over various forums throughout the years, it appears to me that many people are of the mindset that POR products are the cure-all fix-all for any rust issues, where many of the cases I have seen should have started with a cut-off wheel and some fresh sheet metal. In my personal experience with using the product, it has been applied over surface rusty metal, and formed a deathgrip similar to powdercoat. I tried to chip some off with a screwdriver, and was very impressed with the results. However, I have also used it on areas that were cleaner metal than the "surface rust" texture, as well as over some of the factory paint where the panel was not completely stripped. In these areas I experienced delamination where the POR peeled off in sheets.

This would appear to me that POR does not neccessarily play nice with other paints and/or materials, and may not be a suitable substrate for other materials to adequately adhere to. IMHO, if an area is accessible for proper preparation for painting, i.e.: sanding, media blasting, or other means of abrading, where you can produce nice clean (no rust scale) metal, then you would be ahead of the game to use a product (like epoxy primer) that is more suitable as a substrate for other paints as it readily binds with other components. For me, to use POR in a case like this and expect other materials to adhere to it, after witnessing the stuff peeling off, is nothing more than a crap shoot. If the metal is rusty, fix the issue with media blasting, abrading, or if needed, new metal. If you plan on painting over something, your top coat is only as good as the substrate, and rather than looking at the POR website for what they claim their paint will do, I would be checking the paint manufacturer of your TOPCOATS to see what is actually recommended for use with their products as a substrate. Any problems with the POR paint, and their tech support will be quick to point out USER error. Your topcoat manufacturer will be quick to point out POR as the error.

Finally, I am not saying people should not use POR paint. I do believe it does have a use in restorations, specifically in areas that can not be properly prepped for paint adhesion (inside of doors, rockers, cowl cavities, for example) but ONLY where it is used as a stand alone product. There are too many failures of POR in conjunction with other products to be 100% sure of good results. <!--POLLS--><!--FILES-->

 

i used por 15 and it seems to work good. to me the zero rust works just as well and is easier to work with.

 

I used POR-15 on my entire frame for my 95. It's a decent product if you have a significant amount of rust.

I didn't have any rust (but wanted to protect from it) so needless to say my por-15 can be scratched off with my fingernail. I was meticulous about preparation and the surface had good tooth but evidently not the tooth that consistent rust has.

por-15 works best on something that looks like this.



If you have the frame off, I would sandblast and epoxy primer but if it looks like above and thats all you want to do for prep. Give the por-15 a try along with their metal ready and marine clean for prep.

 

I'll throw another option in the mix. I did some research on POR-15 and the like. On the HAMB there was mention that POR-15 started out as a marine floor paint, another post mentioned the marine paint is a mastic. I called a few industrial paint distributors in my area and one told me I was looking for a paint called epoxy mastic. POR-15 is actually an acrylic mastic. The epoxy mastic comes in a two part kit. This product is used for painting rusty outdoor structures like water towers and bridges. I bought the PPG product and it cost me $100 for a two gallon kit. POR-15 sells for $150 for a gallon. Like POR-15 it works better on metal with solid rust or that has been sandblasted, both need a "tooth" to grip onto. Also, like POR-15, the epoxy mastic is UV sensitive. Unlike POR-15, the PPG product can be painted directed over to protect it from UV. POR-15 needs a special primer before you can paint over it.

The advantages I see using the epoxy mastic is first cost. When you mix the two parts, which are both the consistency of peanut butter, it thins a bit because of chemical reaction, but you can thin it even farther with a small amount of lacquer thinner to the same consistancy of POR-15. I figure I can get a total of about 2 1/2 gallons of paint with the kit. A gallon of lacquer thinner costs $15-20. The other benefit is you only mix the amount you need, the rest will keep in the resealed cans until you mix more. POR-15 will start to harden in the can as soon as you open it and it's exposed to moisture in the air. There are tricks to preserve it like purging the can of air with welding shielding gas and pushing a piece of plastic wrap down into the can to displace the air, but that will only delay the hardening. You can also store the well sealed can in a refrigerator but it better not be a refrigerator you're storing food in. I will guarantee the fumes will penetrate any food stored in there, I know that for a fact.

I haven't coated an entire frame yet with the epoxy mastic but I have done test areas on the frame of my '37 Buick. First I applied it straight up, 1 to 1 mixture. Then I mixed a small quantity of xylene, per manufacturer's suggestion. Then a quantity mixed with lacquer thinner, on the can it said it was a paint and epoxy thinner. I painted small areas both on the rusty frame after hand wire brushing the rusty frame. I also applied the same on pieces of freshly sandblasted metal. The results were the 1 to 1 mixture took about 3 days to harden, the xylene mixture about 5 days and the lacquer thinner mixture about 3 days. I did this in the middle of winter, in my shop with a temperature of around 60-65°, the can said to apply in 70°+. Later in the Spring I used batch of the lacquer thinner mixture in 80° temperature and it dried to the touch in about 4-5 hours and rock hard the next day.

On all test samples I tried to scratch the completely cured paint with my finger nail, a claw hammer and a sharp nail. The 1 to 1 samples resisted the finger nail and claw hammer but did scratch with the sharp nail. The xylene mix was a little softer and scratch easier, the lacquer thinner mixture was the same as the 1 to 1 mixture.

I plan to blast the entire Buick frame and the top and underside of the body, inside the cab and truck and fender wheels and coat those areas with the epoxy mastic. I figure if it can hold up to the elements on water towers and bridges it will be more than adequate for my car.