This epoxy mentioned above is what ''EARL'' must have on it's frame. George mentions using it on the thread....but was done around 1999. The frame was always inside.....now earl has been wet a time or two and I notiice rust starting to creep in on the frame.
I am going to clean and brush chassis-saver satin black over this and hope for the best.
I am about ready to install earls metal body and now is the time for a 2nd coat over the frame.

 

I've used por15 multiple times, frames and a flatbed you can see in my profile. Works great for me whether I spray it on or brush it on. Only thing you need to know is por15 is good for spraying on rust, not bare metal. And if you get glossy por15 you need to clear coat it if it sits in the sun or else it will fade.

 

I've used POR15 over clean, bare metal with good results. The key to making it stick is that it MUST have some good, heavy tooth to hang on to. I sanded everything that I coated really well with 60 grit before applying the POR15. If you just scuff it with a fine grit paper first, it will come back off. It's not that it likes to adhere to rust itself better than clean metal for any chemical reason so much as it is that it likes rust because rust always has a rough surface that it can grip to. Even when you've sanded the rust off, it leaves microscopic pits and valleys. It's all about the strength of the mechanical bond. This is why POR15 recommends their MetalReady product. It is a phosphoric acid solution that both neutralizes active rust and etches the metal and provides the tooth that the POR15 needs to grip to. I've found that 60 grit paper will work just as well and is mucho cheaper.

 

That is what I have found, when I said new metal I meant with a smooth surface. If you blast it or sand it with the 60 grit it will work very well.

 

Bill,

I found the post George mentions painting his frame with epoxy primer:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...the-frame.html

Sounds like he used a different product than what I am using. He used automotive primer, the epoxy mastic I am using is direct over rust coating. It's made to cover exterior rusty metal surfaces that are lightly prepped before paint. Also, George mentioned he covered the last parts of his frame with a very thin coat of primer because he was running low toward the end of the project, then finished of with a rattle can of Krylon. Maybe these are the areas that are showing rust now.

With the testing I have done with the epoxy mastic I think it'll last for some time. I really appreciate the cost because basically I'm cheap and have a very small budget for this build.

 

from years and years of experience doing rstoration work, do not use POR 15. I know that stirs the pot. But I have seen many POR failures. Instead I use Master Series which is a primer and intended to be top coated. It has been amazing for the almost 20 years I have been using it.

 

Bob,

When you work with the epoxy mastic do you need a hood with a fresh air supply like is required when spraying epoxy primer ?

 

My brother coated the cab of the truck I'm working on now with something. He doesn't remember what it was, but it's black and a real PITA to try to sand through. If you sandblast the part, why not just use an epoxy primer and paint it? Is the POR-15 a tougher product?

Dave

 

I haven't sprayed it, just brushed it on. As with any two part activated paint you have to were respiration protection. If I did spray it I would spray it outside and wear a respirator, I don't have an fresh air system. I plan to brush mine.

 

Do you have the PPG #'s for the epoxy mastic product?

 

Here are information sheets on the PPG product and the Rustoleum product:

http://pacificsouthwest.net/assets/d...Sell_Sheet.pdf

http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/2032990%20RO-51.pdf