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Good afternoon, I have a 2006 F250 SD. When pulling my trailer I have noticed that I have no trailer brakes at the pedal, but I do have brakes when I squeeze the gain on the brake control. I know at one time I had brakes at the pedal. When the brakes are applies thru the pedal it shows on the internal brake control that it is applying brakes, but for some reason it isn't getting to the trailer. Like I said though it will apply them if I use the controller manually.
Any ideas on what is causing this? I have checked all the fuses under the dash that have anything to do with trailer brakes. Any other ideas?
I don't know as much about the built in trailer brake controller as I would about an aftermarket one. But... on an aftermarket controller, if the brake pedal position switch were not activating the brake lights, the controller wouldn't know you are braking and wouldn't activate.
There are two parts to the BPP switch. One goes to the brake lights and one goes to the PCM. I don't know which of those signals the built in brake controller uses, but it may be worth checking that your brake lights work. Or otherwise check the BPP switch.
When my BPP switch failed, the symptom was a problem with cruise control deactivation. The BPP switch circuit to the PCM had failed. It took a lot more brake pedal pressure to deactivate the cruise control than normal. This might be another symptom to look at.
Thank you, Yes the brake lights work on both the truck and the trailer. I have no issues with the cruise control not disengaging. Just not getting power from the pedal to the trailer. I have even totally rewired my trailer, still having the same issue
I hooked the trailer up and drug it down the road at about 15-30 miles an hour. At full (10) gain you would think it would lock down the tires on the trailer, but it wouldn't thru the pedal, only manually
If the brakes work manually, then you know that everything from the controller to the trailer is working. That's the wiring, the plug, the brakes themselves, etc.
Apparently, on some of the earlier controllers, the brakes wouldn't activate below 30 MPH. You may need to do your tests above that speed.
The iTBC is designed to make trailer brake operation smooth. When properly set up it will feel like the truck and trailer stop together.
Many people notice that their trailer isn't jerking them around (either stopping faster than the truck, or stopping slower than the truck) and think that it isn't working at all.
The best way to show yourself that the controller works is to try stopping without the trailer plugged in at all (somewhere safe and without traffic, of course). You should notice a pretty large difference in the ammount of braking force required to stop.
The slider will lock up the brakes because it is still considered an emergency actuator. if you'll notice, the TowCommand controller will send out a signal proportional to the distance you slide the button... Squeeze it all the way and you get full current through the magnets.
Just because your gain is at 10.0 doesn't mean you'll get full current... your foot has to be on the floor, too.
The iTBC is designed to make trailer brake operation smooth. When properly set up it will feel like the truck and trailer stop together.
Many people notice that their trailer isn't jerking them around (either stopping faster than the truck, or stopping slower than the truck) and think that it isn't working at all.
The best way to show yourself that the controller works is to try stopping without the trailer plugged in at all (somewhere safe and without traffic, of course). You should notice a pretty large difference in the ammount of braking force required to stop.
The slider will lock up the brakes because it is still considered an emergency actuator. if you'll notice, the TowCommand controller will send out a signal proportional to the distance you slide the button... Squeeze it all the way and you get full current through the magnets.
Just because your gain is at 10.0 doesn't mean you'll get full current... your foot has to be on the floor, too.
I think this is a good point and an important one. On the new controllers, including aftermarket models, the engagement is often so smooth, you can not feel the trailer brakes activate. Stopping distances, however, really are reduced.
My aftermarket controller shows power to the trailer, but I could never really tell it was working until I had to nail the brakes and it felt like someone tossed an anchor out behind me.
I agree with RV tech, my controller doesnt ever jerk me around at all it feels like there isnt even a trailer behind me when I use the brakes.
I do know that once I looked into my trailer plug and the contacts were bent a little bit and were not contacting all the way,. maybe check that out. I just bent mine back with a screwdriver and it has been fine ever since.
Thank you all so much. I did the experiment with out the trlr plugged in and it does take a lot longer to stop. I am just used to the old controllers where you could feel the trlr brakes doing all the work. I always had my old trlr setup so that the trlr did the stopping to save on my truck brakes. Guess I need to get used to the new world and way of life. Again, thank all of you so much. Everything is fine now.