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So I went to this web site on how to replace the ball joints. I was looking through the list of needed and possibly needed parts. Could anyone verify stuff that will absolutely be needed and what probably will not? I don't have quite the funds to just buy it all up, but at the same time I don't want to get into it and then realize there's somethin else I need to order.
Also, does anyone know where the cheapest place to buy all 4 ball joints might be? I've looked and seen where I can get two of them for $66 and the other two for $88. This sound pretty cheap to you guys?
And last thing, if someone has the time could you read through this article and tell me if it sounds correct or if you have any suggestions during any particular part? Otherwise I'm pretty much going to go off of this when I do it.
I'd check with Advance Auto Parts...they're always running some kind of: "But this much, get this percentage off' promotion. It's how I got my ball joints for just over $100.
I just installed MOOG joints I bought from Amazon. K8607T lowers for $42.32 each, K80026 uppers for $32.65 each, with free shipping. Total was less than $150.
And you won't need 'em if you're just replacing the ball joints, but I also bought Timken front unit bearings for $180.96 each with free shipping. I found all the parts a little cheaper other places, but the shipping to Alaska would have been outlandish. Those bearings are heavy. So Amazon's free shipping sealed the deal for me.
By the way, it looks like the prices are already up a few bucks from when I ordered last month... Probably to cover shipping them for free to Alaska!
The big knuckle seals I got from NAPA, and the dust seals and o-rings I got from Ford.
Where I come from Timken bearings have a good reputation. And I'd rather spend a few extra bucks on a quality USA made product than take my chances with the imported or rebuilt units you can find on eBay.
Where I come from Timken bearings have a good reputation. And I'd rather spend a few extra bucks on a quality USA made product than take my chances with the imported or rebuilt units you can find on eBay.
I got the new ebay units for 1/2 the price of the timkens as i was short on cash at the time. 5k miles and so far so good. They are easy to change out, so if the ebay hub craters i'll just go timken and never look back.
Ball joints, on the other hand, are a pain to change out... and those special ford seals aren't cheap... i would shell out some extra coin for the mooges for that reason.
So how bad is the alignment going to be when I get done changing all 4? The reason I ask is because it will probably be Saturday when they get changed, and it won't be until Monday before I can get it aligned.
Really the only possible alignment problem changing ball joints will cause is if the camber adjustment sleeve moves when you separate the ball joints from the axle housing (when removing the knuckle). Just mark the position of the camber adjustment sleeve prior to separating the ball joints from the axle housing. Be sure to verify it hasn't moved (return it to the original position if it has moved) before reinstalling the knuckle.
Everyone I've talked to around here has said that I'll need one as soon as it gets done. How about this...is it true that you can't do a proper alignment with bad ball joints?
Everyone I've talked to around here has said that I'll need one as soon as it gets done. How about this...is it true that you can't do a proper alignment with bad ball joints?
Its always a good idea to have the alignment checked. Most tire shops will do this for less then service shops (sometimes free - Like Discount Tire)
Having the alignment checked after changing ball joints makes about as much sense as having the tire pressure checked after a ball joint replacement. Sure, it may be good to make sure it's right. But nothing you did would have made it go bad... Again, a ball joint is not adjustable.