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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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Head porting ?

I am just looking into what i could do to my heads to make them flow better. I have some Ideas but just thought I would run them by you fine people to see if I am on the right track. I also have a set of practice heads to try on.
-smoothing or contouring the valve guide area
-smoothing the bowl area
-smoothing and sanding the exhaust runner
After looking at these heads I think they are fairly large and I dont want to make the ports any larger.
Thanks
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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The roadblock for an FE is the stock exhaust manifolds. Ports and intakes are plenty big.

As for porting, the exhaust should be a mirror finish, the intakes a little rough. Sounds like that's about all you want to do anyway.

As for combustion chamber work, remember, a bigger CC = lower compression, so figure that in your engine build plan--if you're going to fiddle with the CC.

Some hints on these links--sure, one is Chevy stuff, but basic rules are basic rules etc:

Do-It-Yourself Small-Block Cylinder Head Porting - Tech Article - Chevy High Performance Magazine

FE Photo Gallery-Head Porting & Flowing

Ford FE New Life - Head Preparation - Mustang & Fords Magazine


search "ford fe head porting" for more.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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Oh its getting headers for sure, They might have to be custom built, because this FE is in a 79' F150 and the heads I have are off a mustang so they have the 14 hole exhaust bolt pattern
 
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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Sorry to say, but you might be better off with a set of D2TE-AA heads with the 8-bolt header pattern, 14-bolt headers are going to be HARD to find for an F150, much less a '79 with an FE in it. On the other hand, you seem ready to deal with custom headers

If I remember correctly, my machinist did some work to the bowl under the intake valve, but didn't touch anything else in the intake runner. The exhaust, remove the air-injection boss hump, open up the bowl under the valve, and if possible, put 428CJ-size exhaust valves (1.650") in it. You'll probably need exhaust valve seats no matter what you do, so the cost putting bigger seats is already covered, just getting new exhaust valves is the only extra $.

Polishing the combustion chamber is also a good thing, it helps to keep carbon from collecting, although for me, there was hardly ever a change for carbon to build up
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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By air injection boss, is that the hump on the roof of the exhaust port. Thats the only hump/bump i found in the exhaust port. Just clarifying, because my practice heads are D2T and they are junk, and they dont have any bumps in the ports.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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Yes, that's the bump - where air injection piping would have gone if the heads were drilled/threaded for it.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 09:24 AM
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Im working the heads of my 68 360. I am I correct that I can COMPLETELY remove the exhaust bump so that the ports are perfectly rounded rectangle? I've already taken it down some but was hesitant to take it all the way. I haven't found clear information on this specifically. Thanks for any help !
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by slinger34
I am just looking into what i could do to my heads to make them flow better. I have some Ideas but just thought I would run them by you fine people to see if I am on the right track. I also have a set of practice heads to try on.
-smoothing or contouring the valve guide area
-smoothing the bowl area
-smoothing and sanding the exhaust runner
After looking at these heads I think they are fairly large and I dont want to make the ports any larger.
Thanks
We'll make this real easy ! what are you building ? and what are you panning on using it for ? How much HP are you looking to make and what kind of money are you willing to throw into a build... and 85...the only heads that are semi ok for a mild FE build are the early heads and the D2's..even the C8-N heads with the bigger CJ valves in them wont out flow a set of worked big valve ealy heads.. I had a set of C4AE-G head that Les Schmader worked over for me years ago that flowed 300cfm @ .700" lift... and even EdHeads arent but about 270 or so out of the box.. But it all boils down to what your wanting to get out of your build..
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Brando's 68
Im working the heads of my 68 360. I am I correct that I can COMPLETELY remove the exhaust bump so that the ports are perfectly rounded rectangle? I've already taken it down some but was hesitant to take it all the way. I haven't found clear information on this specifically. Thanks for any help !
I would be careful. I don't have my heads anymore so I can't check, but I think it gets pretty thin at some point because of the casting around the boss on the outside.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat
Sorry to say, but you might be better off with a set of D2TE-AA heads with the 8-bolt header pattern, 14-bolt headers are going to be HARD to find for an F150, much less a '79 with an FE in it. On the other hand, you seem ready to deal with custom headers

I seem to remember drilling and tapping a couple sets of the 14 bolt heads for the 8 bolt pattern. The heads had the iron cast into them already so it was just a matter of drilling and tapping. I did use some Marine Tex in the holes just as a bit of insurance. Never had a problem with either set.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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Just realized this thread is from July...
 
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Old Nov 30, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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DOH!! But Brando refreshed it so it's okay.
 
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