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Okay, I have a spare set of 351w heads. I am planning on porting them myself. So who here here does porting? I am going to try and get a reasonable 400hp 400+ torque on a 408 stroker engine for street and towing use. Anyone see any problems reaching that mark on ported factory heads? I am used to Mopar and I know people that have done around 475hp with factory 360 heads. I think I could get what I want out of them.
One thing. When porting heads you want to make sure each cylinder is as balanced as possible right? Well without a flow bench is there any way to tell that? To tell you the truth I am doing this more as a learning proccess than anything else. And if you guys ever read a mag called Engine Masters they go over the basics of head porting. I know I can make gains. But being a first timer I may not make what I want. Do you think my hopes are anywhere close on these or should I just save a chunk of money for new After Market heads?
even porting those heads wont get you the proper flow for that size motor. either find some gt40's or an aftermarket head thats designed for that motor like some AFR's for instance.
GT40's? What are they off of? I am trying not to go after market, cause a new set of heads are expensive as hell. And if I make this project any more expensive it wont happen. But if I need to I will port them for th elearning experience, and then get after market later. Do a dyno and see what I can make first maybe.
Can actualy port stock heads pretty good, but it is allot of time and hard to do it well. I do think you can get stock heads to flow close to aftermarket though. the aftermarket is defintly more exact on aluminum heads though. I know back about hmm 20 years ago it was hard to get parts for ford. My dad raced sportsman dirt car. Had the heads ported, polished, installed the screw in studs etc. Guess my point is you can get the stock heads to work pretty good done right.
if you take your time...you can make a set of e7's flow as well as the gt 40's The valve size is a bit smaller, but if you backcut the valves, you can make up for size,in flow capability. The key is to remember you want port velocity, don't go in blind & ream the ports. The intake needs to be nice & clean, just smooth the ports. You can go in & rework the pocket around the intake valve to get a full intake charge around the valve, but ya need to be careful around the backside of the guide.The Exhaust port needs to be centered, Best way to describe this is, look down the exhaust port & look at the valve stem in relation to said port. You will see what i'm referring to. Once you have the port opening centered, clean up the port itself, nice smooth walls, and work the port floor.
plan on about 15-20 hours to get all of this done
objects in mirror are smaller than they appear, your mileage may vary, pricing slightly higher in the west & south, do not run with sicssors, and any other caveat i can think of