Let's swap the Blower Motor relay and the IDM relay to check if the IDM relay is good. Position 31(Blower) and position 32(IDM). Then turn on key and turn on the blower fan. If the fan works then the IDM relay is good. If not the IDM relay is bad. After testing swap the relays back.

Another thing to check is the harness at the 42 pin connector. That connector is in a bracket that stands just above the driver valve cover. Make sure the harness has not rubbed on the valve cover. Also check the harness on the other side of the connector, toward the valley. Make sure it has not rubbed against anything.

Also, just for ducks, swap the 30A IDM fuse with another 30A fuse.

 

relay is good. i looked for exposed wire on the harness what else do i need to look for

 

still no start any more suggesttions

 

I can't think of any new approach except for you to go over previous ideas in case you overlooked something. In the mean time I'll reread all posts to see if I missed something or get some new ideas.

EDIT: This was a great post I saw on PSN. Maybe it will lead you in the right direction.

Posted by Dave (golfer) on PSN 02-10-2010 Thanks Dave for the great trouble shooting guide.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front cover) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoid.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc....

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?

holler if you need help troubleshooting.

take care~
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I am helping work on this truck. That is a good right up ^, I can go back and double check everything, all of the #'s I have read seem to be exactly what the truck is supposed to be doing. The buzz test did pass, I did not listen to each injector individually, I will go back and do that. Is the fuel lvl inp v/% being at zero, no change while cranking, a bad thing? I could possibly see it being bad fuel according to the above diagnostics but there is no smoke coming out of tailpipe while cranking.

 

i talked to some one at a ford dealership to try to get a oem chip put back in the truck. he toled methat the after market chip just overrides the factory codes it doesnot re place a factory chip does any body know if this is true

 

I would try unplugging your ebp sensor and see if it starts. Check your fuel pressure as well. Here is a you tube video of a chip install: YouTube - 7.3 DP-TUNER F5 CHIP INSTALL

 

A aftermarket chip does override the factory settings, most but not all chips have a switch for at least 2 settings and you would have a switch on the dash some where and wires running out from the PCM down by the E-brake.