and if the rear seal is installed correctly with the window there should never be an adhesive sealant
77 Supercab Rear Sliding Window
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
77 Supercab Rear Sliding Window
So I decided not to forgo the work of chaniging out cabs from my 150 to 250. The cab is solid besides the floor pans, so I ordered new ones from LMC. However, since placing the order LMC called me back and said they had to charge me more for shipping because it was a bulky item. They wanted $180.00 per pan to ship to Alaska!!! So I told them to keep them I guess I will be fabricating my own...should be simple enough. So I cut the passenger pan out so far and plan on finishing cutting thw drivers pan and rear floor tonight or tommorrow. I do have a question pertaining to installing the re sliding window. Should I use some type of sealant on the seal when I reinstall the window or is the seal enough? I'm also switching beds and am having trouble like everyone else is with the front two carriage bolts!! Sprayed some lubricant on them and waiting now.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 11
From: West Virginia
if they are that seized they will spin the squarness out of the bed before they break loose. go ahead and cut them off.
for the seal, use weather strip adhesive. If you don't it will probably leak eventually.
for the seal, use weather strip adhesive. If you don't it will probably leak eventually.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 20
From: Rhode Island
I reinstalled my rear slider last week, used nothing more than the stock 1994 gasket! still no leak, and its been raining here for past 2 days on and off!
As for the floor pans, just grap some decent sheet metal and go to town. I saw a thread on here not too long ago where they used 1/8 steel tread plate. Kinda overkill but he used what he had, and it will prolly outlast the rest of the truck!
Those front carriage bolts can be a real pain ! grap vise grips and your torch. heat the bolt till its got a nice glow, clamp the vise grips on the metal clip where the bolt goes through, jump in bed with a good torx socket and a impact. A helper is handy to keep from jumping back and forth. If you cant get them to come out, cut them out with the torch and buy new bolts and nuts!
As for the floor pans, just grap some decent sheet metal and go to town. I saw a thread on here not too long ago where they used 1/8 steel tread plate. Kinda overkill but he used what he had, and it will prolly outlast the rest of the truck!
Those front carriage bolts can be a real pain ! grap vise grips and your torch. heat the bolt till its got a nice glow, clamp the vise grips on the metal clip where the bolt goes through, jump in bed with a good torx socket and a impact. A helper is handy to keep from jumping back and forth. If you cant get them to come out, cut them out with the torch and buy new bolts and nuts!
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 11
From: West Virginia
Those front carriage bolts can be a real pain ! grap vise grips and your torch. heat the bolt till its got a nice glow, clamp the vise grips on the metal clip where the bolt goes through, jump in bed with a good torx socket and a impact. A helper is handy to keep from jumping back and forth. If you cant get them to come out, cut them out with the torch and buy new bolts and nuts!
carriage bolts= NOT TORX
Dents= No torx. no "clips."
Dents= carriage bolts with a square upper shank drop through square holes in bed floor and round holes in frame before being capped with a nut. Nut rusts to bolt. End of game. There is no way to get a pair of pliers or anything else on the bolt heads, although you can try using a cut off wheel to slot them for a standard screwdriver. This isn't going to help much when they are stuck though. Spray em with a lubricant, hit them with a breaker bar, if they don't break loose or if they spin the square outta the bed holes, use the cut off to zip them off.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 20
From: Rhode Island
Here is a link to another post and some quotes about the bed bolts, on the supercab trucks.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9030387
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9030387
Hi guys, trying to button down my bed, and the bolt that was in the left very front hole was so rusted when I got the bed that I had to cut it off. It was rounded like a carriage bolt, but it had a phillips head, and it then screwed into a speed nut which clipped over the frame. Having a heck of a time finding either the bolt or the speed nut. Anyone know where I might be able to find these? Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Apply 1/4 bead of sealant 4" (8" total) on each side of the seam where the "B" pillar and roof of the cab meet. This is to prevent water from getting in between the seam and the seal.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 11
From: West Virginia
My 77 had no clips. I cut the heads off and pounded them through no problem. the heads were pretty well rusted but didnt look any different than the other bolts.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 874
Likes: 56
From: Merlin, OR
Carriage bolts
Whichever style of carriage bolts you have, you will probably have to grind them off with a cutting wheel as I did. When I replaced the left front carriage bolt, I went to the dealership and got a newer pickup carriage bolt that had a torx head on it, and a speed nut which clips over the frame for the bolt to go into. The space between the front tank and the frame rail makes a torx or phillips head carriage bolt and speed nut very handy when replacing these, especially if doing it by yourself as I was. A tip, I soaked all the bolts and nuts in a plastic bowl with CLR full strength and let it sit overnight. Most of the rust came off, and what didn't, I used my handheld angle grinder and a wire brush and knocked the rest of the rust off with that, then I primered and painted the bolts and nuts and then when putting them back together, I used anti seize compound on the threads.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Thanks for the tips. Yea mine has the phillips heads for the front two carriage bolts. I will try to heat them up and see what that yields. As for the pans I'm going to pick up some scrap metal tommorrow.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,238
Likes: 21
From: Northern Illinois
Originally on the 78-79 models (and probably your 77) clip nuts were used on 2 or 3 of the bolts at the frame.
And those would be the original bolts. Heat the nut up real good and use a quality phillips screwdriver and they will come out fine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 4
From: South west Idaho
The back glass will seal without the adhesive if installed right. I'v had five of the 79 models and none were sealed and non leaked. They were used in my buisiness for several years. I would put some adhesive in not to stop leaks but to help prevent somebody from removing it easy. If the glass has a metal frame around it like the slider ones do , I can remove it in less than three minutes and make no noise,scratch no paint and break no glass. So security is the only reason I would do it. As far as the bolts , grind or torch them off. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
The back glass will seal without the adhesive if installed right. I'v had five of the 79 models and none were sealed and non leaked. They were used in my buisiness for several years. I would put some adhesive in not to stop leaks but to help prevent somebody from removing it easy. If the glass has a metal frame around it like the slider ones do , I can remove it in less than three minutes and make no noise,scratch no paint and break no glass. So security is the only reason I would do it. As far as the bolts , grind or torch them off. Don't use any sealant at all if you want, however it is against the advise of the Ford Service manuals.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Yea it didn't take me long to remove the original window and its the first one I ever took out. I guess security wasn't the main concern back when they were built. Thanks for all of the advice on this. Hopefully I can get this truck all back together and the interior repainted before the snow flies!!