When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I picked up a 60 f100 not long ago, and have been driving it fairly often in the past few weeks. One of the previous owners installed a '73 360 and 4 speed.
This morning I drove it and all was well. This afternoon I started it but couldn't shift into any gear, it would just grind. It has what looks like the original hydraulic clutch setup. Could this be a problem with the slave cylinder or master cylinder?
Could be, did you check the fluid level in the clutch MC? What happens if you put it in gear before starting it then try to drive it after starting it? does the clutch work normally then? If it works normally or you can't get it into a gear at a stop, it's not likely the clutch Most likely the shift linkage is jumped between gears. If the clutch won't disengage at a stop it's likely the clutch hydraulics or the lining has peeled off the clutch disk and locked up the clutch. If the clutch slave is external you should be able to see it work from under the truck when someone pushes on the pedal.
First thing I did was check the fluid level, it was good. Haven't tried putting it in gear before starting it, I'll give that a shot tomorrow. When you refer to the shift linkage jumping between gears, do you mean the linkage inside the transmission itself. Bear with me, I'm not what anyone would call a transmission expert.
No, a common problem with column shift linkage is that after a certain amount of wear the linkage will go into neutral without first moving the tranny out of 1 or R and so tries to shift it into 2nd while still in 1st.
You can check if this is the problem by shifting into neutral and looking under the hood at the shift linkage at the end of the column. When in neutral the two arms at the bottom of the column should be aligned. If they are not, have someone hold in the clutch while you move them into alignment. It will take some effort to move the offending lever.
This is just from personal experience on a late model ranger hyd. clutch. mine did the same thing. i got it home from 40 miles away,lucky it shifted pretty good without the clutch. i put bled it and refilled, it helped some but not much, i finally picked up a hand held vacuum pump, what came out of the system looked like white petrolem jelly. i filled and vacuumed until no more of this residue came out. drove it 40,000 more miles without a problem.
Well I finally had a chance to get under there today and take a look. I adjusted all the slop out of the point where the rod coming from the slave cylinder meets the fork (there was a ton). Then had the kid hop in and step on the clutch pedal. Everything from the pedal to the fork moved as it should, but the clutch disc & pressure plate didn't move.
That's got me thinking it might be a bad pressure plate. Any thoughts?
The pressure plate doesn't move very far. with the tranny in neutral (verify by pushing the truck forwards and back a couple feet) and the clutch pedal pushed in try turning the disk with a screwdriver. I have seen pressure plates with the diaphram or fingers worn thru. but that was because of a frozen throwout bearing which makes a noticable racket when the clutch is pushed in that was ignored for some time.
Ok, it looks like it's the pressure plate after all. I got under there today and watched while the kid worked the clutch pedal. 2 of the fingers on the pressure plate work just fine. One doesn't do a thing. taking a closer look I found that the pin the the finger pivots on is missing. Looks like its time for a new one.
Thanks everyone for your help!
Interesting! Wonder where it went and why?
Might as well put a new disk and throwout bearing in while it's apart, reface the flywheel if it's scored. Check for leaking engine or tranny seals as well.
Who knows. I dont have a flywheel cover so when it came out it just dropped to the road. I took a look around the driveway but couldn't find it.
definitely while its apart I'll replace the disk and throwout bearing & reface the flywheel, and from the looks of things under there it'll be a good time to toss in a oil pan gasket & maybe a rear main seal. I've got a good running y-block in the garage that I'm thinking about putting in there if it's not too much of a problem to adapt it to that transmission.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.