You may have just read about my tribulations on the busted fuel filter thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-the-carb.html

That problem is fixed, but I likely created another flooding problem and have some research to do, so I am trying to get identification and anatomy info about my carburetor.

This is on my '73 Dent's 302:

 

A part number should be stamped on or around the choke tower to prevent the guessing game. Motorcraft 2150 would be my guess though.

 

Nope the choke pull off being mounted on the air horn makes it a Motorcraft 2100. There's supposed to be a tag attached to on of those front screws but it is apparently long gone. It won't be hard to find a rebuild kit for it if you need it, ideally you'd want to know the list number and all that, but you don't HAVE to have it.

EDIT: Then again maybe not having the list number for the correct carb kit is why my 2150 would never run right. LOL I'm running a Holley 4412 2 barrel and I love it!!!!!!!!!!! Bolt on replacement, and it's big enough for when I eventually upgrade cam and heads.

 

If you need a tag # try D3TE-UA. This is for a '73 w/ a 360 but the kit should work, they're both Motorcraft 2100's. Also, If the choke pull off is bad, it doesn't come with the kit. You have to order that separately. I got mine from Napa.

 

Thanks for all the help. I think I need an elementary carburetor 101 class!

To check and see if the float is sticking, do I just want to pull the top of the carb off? Would it merely be the four or so screws? As you may remember, this thing worked perfectly before I F'd it up by busting off the fuel filter and having to extract it. I think it was you, Mike, who suggested the float could be sticking, but I don't want to create bigger and bigger problems as I chase the new problem. So I need newbie guidance!

Any assistance would be appreciated.

 

Probly some trash in the needle valve.If you're careful you can remove the top,then remove the float and clean the needle and reinstall

 

My Chilton's has an exploded view of an Autolite 2100, is that the same as a Motorcraft 2100?

 

The Autolite and Motorcraft should be the same.
To remove just the top of the carburetor (airhorn) remove the four screws plus the air cleaner stud and disconect the automatic choke linkage.

 

I think Mike just covered it all. Does this engine run? It looks like it will need a complete carb rebuild to me, including the EGR plate.

The carb kits usually are a universal type kit meaning you'll have extra parts left over for other types of 2100's. Just match up your parts with the ones in the kit. They are usually reasonably priced.

Is the fuel tank clean? If not, clean it out first before running that nasty gas back in your clean carb. I'd run an extra inline gas filter, preferably a clear one, and installed between the gas tank and fuel pump just for giggles. Even with a new tank, you will still see rust in the gas from the filler neck and fuel lines.

Just be patient when working on your carb. Pay attention to what your taking off and try to know where it went. Also, it's gasoline, be careful.

 

The engine runs fine, and it idled good, it seemed to function properly. I had a small fuel leak at the hose that connects to the fuel filter, and so I thought I would just get a new filter and hose. Well I busted off the filter and had to use an easy-out to get the nozzle out and immediately after it floods to overflowing at idle. When revving it uses the gas fast enough, but once you slow to idle it floods, sputters, overflows.

The gas tank is not new, I suspect most of the parts in the fuel system to be 1973 vintage.

 

Well finally got to troubleshoot with my good friend today...

It seems that when I removed the old filter, the float bowl drained and the float got stuck on the bottom. When playing with the float today, we noticed that when the bowl was empty if you let the float drop it would "stick" or bind against the bottom. As long as the bowl has fuel, the float works fine. The sudden drop of the level got the float to stick, apparently.

Good call.

So I think the carb is usable as-is until I pull the engine for the other things I want to address. Then maybe rebuild or replace carb then. Sound reasonable? Am I missing anything important?

 

There is a clip on the needle seat that you may have knocked off with installing the ease out, no big deal, just remove air horn and inspect and reinstall clip on needle valve. With out the clip, the needle valve will just lift and flood. May be your problem right there.

 

Well I sure know more about carburetors than I did a few days ago! Thanks for the education, guys.

The clip is intact, the float works and is not taking on liquid, the needle valve seats, and the carb works fine now. Just being able to discover that the float was sticking on the bottom of the bowl when it drained was a huge discovery for me, but something most of you have seen before. I appreciate just how great this site is and how willing the folks here are to helping.

Thanks!