Hello,I am in the process of rebuilding my 429 in my'66 F-100 and wanted to run the changes by you guys.
What I am starting with is :
D1VE block

Speedpro#L2366f30 pistons

D00e-R Rods

D0VE-C heads(in the shop getting 2.245I/1.725E valves and full port/polish)
the cam that was in it was a Lunati #LUNooo97LK 230*/230* dur.@.050",and .554/.554 lift,
screw in 7/16" studs w/poly locks and 3/8" guide plates
hardened 3/8" pushrods
Perf. RPM intake
Holley 850cfm DP
Hooker Super Comp. headers.

Now I am changing the valve train as noted above
as well as the cam to Ford Racing #M-6250-A443 234*I/244*dur.,.562I/.588E lift
plus Roller lifters (undecided on which ones)any ideas?
Springs M-6513-D221 (as well as pushrod length checker!!!).

I'm probably looking over a lot of things but I'm bored and qualifying @Daytona is on hold and I've been curious what you all think about what I'm about to do!
This is going to be a street/strip truck ( no big time racer).

I've put front tilt,'97 Flareside bed (lots of work) c--6 with 3500 stall conv.,narrowed 9" with Comp. Eng. rear half 4-link and 31X18.5-15 Hoosier Pro Street radials.

Thanks for any and all suggestions and PLEASE tell me if I am doing something stupid here I'd rather know now.

Keith Rossi

 

The A443 cam is a hydraulic flat tappet cam not a roller cam. A good set of lifters from like Comp or Crane or FRRP M-6500-B301 would be a good choice....

 

If you are going to turn over 6,000 rpm then add a girdle to the valve train. Its only about $200 and makes a world of difference. I added one after breaking a rocker stud at 6500rpm. It made the whole valve train feel so much more stable i will never run without one again. I am sure its not totaly necessary but if you have a few hundred dollars it sure makes it feel tight at higher rpms. Get a red anodized one from CompCams. They work good and look really cool.

 

Just Strokin - How is the lifter supply situation? Any change from dried up supply lines?