Hello,

First sorry for possible bad english, because I am from Holland (a small country in Europe). But I do my best!

I am re-building the engine and I have some questions about this.

The engine:

Block: 429 cui (castingnumber: D1VE-6015 AA)

Cylinderheads: C8VE-E (original heads we’re D2VE, but I replaced that)

Questions:

1.

I have the following set-up in mind:

I have a Edelbrock Performer Cam and the Edelbrock lifters.

Rocker Arms are from Competition Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rockers (CCA-1411-16).

I know that the standard pushrods of the C8VE-E heads are 5/16 and 8,550 (source is this forum!), but I have now 3/8, 8,68 (Competition Cams/ Magnum).

Is this combination good (especially pay attention to the pushrods, because I read different things about this size I must use).

When I have a test set-up I experienced some space/ clearence between the Rocker-arm and the valve, is this gonna disapear, because of the Edelbrock lifters? So not, I have rocker-arm studs size 3/8 on the heads, what kind of rocker arm stud nut I must use and can I use Rocker Arm Adjusters for fill up the space/ clearence?

Is there anything else about this detail I must pay attention?

2.

What kind of guideplates I can use? I have in mind the FRPP M-6566-E429 or the Trick Flow TFS-54400623.

If you need more information, please let me know! Every help is welcome.

Tim

 

The problem with changing the length of the pushrods is the geometry of where the tip of the rocker travels on the valve tip. Check out the link I posted to read up on it some more. Pretty much all Hyd and solids lifters will have the same diamentions unless they are roller lifters. If you are using guide plates make sure the pushrods are made to be used with them.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ushrod_length/

There are a few different Edelbrock cams so we need a part # to go with it. In most cases unless you are running a big cam with a lot of valve spring pressure you don't need to upgrade to 3/8" pushrods.

 

Hello airharley,

Thanks for your reaction! I've learned a lot of the article you send (I certainly are going to check this on my engine). The problem of the space/ clearence between the Rocker-arm and the valve is solved, I've used the wrong Rocker Arm Adjusting Nuts (the one we used were flat on the bottom), so the Rocker Arm was not deep enough on the rocker-arm stud.

By the way, the part number of the cam and hydraulic lifters is: EDL-2167 (Edelbrock).

Another question:

I noticed that some of the cam lobes are not fully directly under the hydraulic lifters (in the worst case only a few inches), is this a problem? We have checked the old original cam and the cam lobes were in exact the position of the cam lobes of the new cam. Also the old cam has the same "runningmarks" (I don't know of this word is correct?).

 

Has somebody an answer on my last "cam" question?

This was the question:

I noticed that some of the cam lobes are not fully directly under the hydraulic lifters (in the worst case only a few inches), is this a problem? We have checked the old original cam and the cam lobes were in exact the position of the cam lobes of the new cam. Also the old cam has the same "pattern".

 

The lobes being offset to the lifters is normal. In reality the lifters rotate as the cam shaft spins. This keeps oil between the two surfaces so they don't wear out. Keep this in mind before you start the engine up the first time to "break" the cam in. Oil is splashed on the cam by the rotating assembly to provide lubrication. Speaking of cam break in, make sure you follow the directions that came with the cam. I add a cam break in lube to the oil as well for added protection, some also use diesel engine oil since it has a higher zinc content. Make sure to prelube the entire oil system before you fire it up. Use a drill with a deepwell 5/16 socket to spin the oil pump shaft.

Explore the site I posted above to find a bunch of useful info in the "Technical Article" link on the left side of the webpage. Here are a few links that I think may help explain in some detail things you should know.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...amshaft_basic/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ding_mistakes/
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_03..._engine_build/

The cam your using has a max lift of .480 on the exhaust side. A set of hardened 5/16 pushrods will be more then enough to handle the load. I run a cam with .565 of lift with no problems.

 

Hello Airharley,

Thanks again. I've forgot to mention it, but the cam lobes are not directly in left and right position under the lifters (seen from above). In my opinion we can't put the cam further or back into the engineblock?

Thanks for the tip of lubrication the cam lobes, we did this, with the lubricant Edelbrock supplied with the cam (MoS2 lube, "red stuff").

 

The cam thrust plate, located behind the cam timing gear on the front of the engine, places the cam where it should be. I found out the hard way what happens if the cam sits to far back. My cam gear bolt backout a 1/2 inch allowing the cam to move back and forth. This ground down the lifter bases and cam lobes, which sent metal particles to the main and rod bearings and scored the journals. So be sure to add a thread lock to the cam gear bolt threads.