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1976 360 re-ring kit question

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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bigreed91
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From: Spring Hill
1976 360 re-ring kit question

so im lookin at gettin a re-ring kit from summit racing cause it comes with all new gaskets the rings rod bearings and a few other things. my question is though there are like 4 different ones with different bore sizes for the 360 and idk which one to get. Do i need to wait till i tear mine apart and measure the bore or am i just thinkin to hard?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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From: Levittown,PA
measure the bore you don't want to get the wrong one
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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No, tear the engine down so you can measure the bore. You can't just guess at it.
You'll also need to check the crank to see if the rods and mains are undersize.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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2x with Mikeo0o0o0o0o.... Either have the machine shop do the tear down and measurements or bring them ALL of the parts, including bearings, detailing which bore/journals they came from.... or do the measurements yourself. Either way, I recommend against ordering parts before knowing what is actually needed.

Consider Performance Automotive Warehouse's deluxe rebuild kit. Very reasonable.

With your rebuild, why not find a 390 crank and step up to 30 to 40 extra cubes?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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bigreed91
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From: Spring Hill
i have really considered the 390 crank and rods, i might just take my engine to a shop and just let them do it and put 390 crank in rods in while they're at it. id probley be better off that way considering this would be my first full rebuild and i want it done right
 
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 12:25 AM
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to measure or not to measure

Originally Posted by bigreed91
i have really considered the 390 crank and rods, i might just take my engine to a shop and just let them do it and put 390 crank in rods in while they're at it. id probley be better off that way considering this would be my first full rebuild and i want it done right
Back in 1979 I went to a tech school in Wahpeton, North Dakota. The class
was called " Recreational Engine Servicing" It was a one year course, but it
was so fun I took the course twice.

Well, anyway when I took an engine apart I had a form to fill out. I had to measure each cylinder two times at top, center and bottom of the bore.
I had a spring loaded tee shaped device, that would pop out, then I could
set it and pull it out and measure it with a dial calipers. So that is six measurements per cylinder. All this info was written down on the form.
Also had to measure all the crank journals, and the cam lobes. I also measured piston clearance in the bore with a feeler gauge. I had to measure
everything.

After all this information was put on the form, my instructor and me would
decide what needed to be done to the engine.

Once the machine shop work was done and all the new parts were there, I had to measure everything again. New piston ring end gap, crank shaft bearing clearance, rod bearing clearance.

Once everything checked out I would grease the heck out of everything with Outboard Motor Assembly Lube. Then use a torque wrench on every bolt.

If you measure everything, then compare your readings to the spec sheet.
You might be able to save a lot of money on an engine. Maybe the crank is
ok, just put new bearings in. The crank is stronger than the bearings.

I save money on valve jobs too. Sometimes I just buy all new valves and
lap them in by hand. If you can oil up the valve stem, then pull it through
the guide, with the tip of your finger on top of the guide and a suction is created, then it's probably got tight enough clearance.

I clean up cylinder heads using those wire brushes that plumber's use to
clean copper pipe fittings. Cut off the handle and put it in a drill.

My 1979 Ford F-150 2wd doesn't need an overhaul. I was tearing out the
dash in the cab and a receipt fell out. Here the previous owner bought a
new short block and had the cylinder heads gone through by a pro. The
bill came to just under 1,800 dollars. The engine has 35K miles on it now.

If you read this whole posting, I gotta hand it to ya !
 
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 12:53 AM
  #7  
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CHELLIE
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From: hesperia calif.
Originally Posted by bigreed91
i have really considered the 390 crank and rods, i might just take my engine to a shop and just let them do it and put 390 crank in rods in while they're at it. id probley be better off that way considering this would be my first full rebuild and i want it done right
Hi, It might be cheaper just to get a quality crate 390 engine from NAPA, machining is not cheap, crank, bore, heads, rods sized, etc parts are not cheap, you need a lot of measuring tools, bore gauge, outside mic. for the pistons, Now days is Cheaper to buy a Quallity crate motor and R&R it, if you want to learn how to overhaul an eng, then the extra cost is a learning tool, but you need to have an instructor to teach you what to look for, my friend/neighbor taught me how to over haul an eng at the age of 16, it was a chevy 265 v8, we tore that eng completely apart, even the hyd lifters were diasembled and cleaned and checked for wear, I learned a lot on that rebuild

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