I have a 03 6.0 and the last few days it has been starting hard especially when cold. I get the following codes P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0282 and the discription is the same for all codes just refers to a different cylinder I listed them in order cylinder 1-8. It says injector circuit low Open circuit, fuel injector, FICM connector loose. I would appreciate any info on this problem. Thank you all in advance.

 

I have this same issue.

At first, the only indication of a problem was that the engine light came on. So I pulled the codes and I got the same 8 code results..."fuel injector circuit low" for each cylinder P0261 etc. )

I thought that I might have a chafing issue., and thought I found a chafing point and fixed it (I thought I fixed it).

Eventually, the engine light went off, so I thought I was a genius,.

Later that week, the engine light came on again, I pulled codes....same 8 individual codes "injector circuit low" for each cylinder. And shortly thereafter, the engine light turned off again. Weeks have gone by, and I have been meaning to take care of this, (engine light comes on...engine light goes off) but everything was working fine....started all the time, plenty of horsepower, and so busy I just couldn't be bothered. You know...I'll get to it when I have a chance (when will I learn?).


Well, then yesterday morning...crank the starter, fires a few cylinders, then stalls. Try again, same thing. I walk away in hopes that I'm just dreaming and that I'll wake up and everything will be fine. Anyway, I go back to start and it gives signs that it might just start if I'm patient enough. After about 15 attempts it finally sputtered and spewed and came to idle and then it ran fine. It was a very rough start.

I immediately drove it to Kragan auto parts and used their analyzer, without turning off the engine of course. Even though the engine light was not on, I pulled those same dastardly codes. So, at this point, I've learned something...just because the engine light isn't on does not mean you won't pull codes. Duhhhhhhh.


Well, I went to the house, threw the bicycle in the back, and headed off to my job site. I shut the engine off. Tried to restart immediately, and it started no problem. Well, I worked for about 4 hours and then jumped in the truck, said a prayer, and it started right up...no problems at all.


So, on the way home, I stop by the Ford dealership and buy a brand new wiring harness, and go home and go to bed. In the morning, I'll change the harness.


Get up this morning, try to start the truck (2004 August build 6.0l PSD), same thing as yesterday morning. Just a few fires..then stalls.

So, I come here and read the tech folder regarding FICM, Chafing, Injectors etc... and am about to change the harness.


My gut says it is not the harness after all the reading I've done.

Does anybody here know what the most cost effective procedure for troubleshooting this issue is? Or is it possible that after reading my symptoms, that you have a pretty good idea what the problem is?


Thanks in advance to anyone willing to advise.












It seems HIGHLY unlikely that all 8 injectors would fail at the same time

 

Check the Tech Folder out and look for a thread on checking your FICM voltage.

If the voltages are low, then you have identfied your problem. If not, it could still be the FICM.

It is ALWAYS good to check for wiring harness issues before spending $$'s.

 

Thanks, Mark...



I was just printing off that testing procedure when I saw your response.




Please, while your here, I have a couple more questions.



1. Is the injector buzz test simply a matter of turning the key to the "on" position and listening for each click? If so, there are no clicks. All I hear is the fuel pump? (I watched the tech training video, but was not able to determine if I need special tools for that test)

2. Is there a procedure for testing the harness, other than pulling it for a close visual inspection?

3. I read the post regarding re-soldering the FICM, (if that is my problem). Would you recommend doing this if I determine that is the problem? Or is that a risky procedure that only electronics experts should attempt?


Thanks again!

 

I forgot to add one thing -

Make sure your batteries and alternator are all healthy. That could be causing it as well.

Checking for wire harnes chaffing is pretty much a visual task:
Wiring Harness Chafing:
Some 03/04 trucks with the 6.0 may exhibit a crank/no start, rough running, misfire, buck/jerk or lack of power. This may be due to the FICM harness chafing on a valve cover stud near the FICM. Other potential locations for chafing are where the harness routes past the EBP sensor, the belt idler on the driver side of the engine, the glow plug control module bracket on the passenger side of the engine, and the accelerator pedal sensor wires at the steering column (adjustable pedals only). Reroute and repair the harness as necessary. Broadcast Message 0918/1374, SSM #17522.

As far as FICM soldering goes, I really can't comment on whether or not you can do it - depends on your skills or your "desire to learn new things". All I can say is that I would probably NOT feel comfortable doing it - but I do not solder much. I would send mine to SWAMPS. Another possibility is for a person to take the instructions to a local small electronics repair person - if you know of one with a good reputation.

Injector buzz test:
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech25_250k.wmv
(might have to copy and paste the URL in the browser window)

note : Injector Buzz Test and injector power balance test starting at 12:40

 

Thanks again Mark!



Yeah, I just replaced the batteries about six months ago (after reading your recommendations), after replacing my egr cooler with this guy's product:

BulletProof EGR Coolers


Haven't had egr cooler problems since. Did it myself!! and yes, I replaced the oil cooler, too.

 

My problem turned out to be the FICM after it was replaced all was good. Until August 12th the truck was stolen then found 3 days later down south with the cab burned out after they drove the S#$%&T out of it. Police say it was illegals using it for drug or people.

 

Wow...just wow!

I am a big fan of your governor, and am full support of Arizona's attempt to enforce federal law.

I'm so sorry to hear about your misfortune. I hope there is a happy ending to your story. Was your truck replaced?

 

Well, the FICM passed the first part of the voltage test...but failed during the cranking part of the voltage test that Bismic posted in the tech folder.

I am about to pull the FICM. I'm hoping that I can perform the "minor repair procedure" as explained in the How To FICM Guide in the tech folder.


Has anyone here successfully performed that soldering procedure?



How about the FICM upgrade further down in the guide? (That upgrade looks beyond my known abilities.)

 

Oh, I forgot to mention in my last post that my battery voltage was at 12.5 volts when I performed the test. Is that considered too low for the FICM voltage test?

Thanks!

 

Is that voltage w/ the engine running or off?

 

I am in the process of filing the claim it is a paperwork nightmare and I do not wish it on anyone. the same weekend they found my truck the towing company towed in three other trucks which means there are others going through the same process.

 

With the engine off. (engine won't start). I replaced the alternator when I replace the batteries last spring.


In the voltage test that you posted, the last test is to crank it while testing the voltage. That is when I had the voltage drop to ~22v. The test procedure says it should not drop lower than 45v.

The first part of the test with the key on gave me a 48v reading which was exactly where it is supposed to be.

I have the FICM apart at this point, but my soldering pencil doesn't seem to put out enough heat to re-flow the solder at the contacts. We just sold our second vehicle, so I'm dead in the water until I can get a friend to take me to Radio Shack for a new one.

How long does it take to get a rebuild from SWAMPS? I think I might have to drop the big bucks and get a new one. I sure hope the FICM is the problem!

Thanks for your input on this, Mark. Anything else I should do?

 

List price for FICM from ford in AZ was 710.00 but thru the company I work for I got it for 468.00.

 

Well, I took the FICM apart and followed the instructions for "minor repair procedure" of the FICM How To Guide in the tech folder.


I re-soldered the 8 capacitors and the 4 resistors as per instructions and....


IT WORKED!!!!! IT WORKED!!!! IT WORKED!!!!!!


Truck started right up and the voltages were perfect. I took it out on the highway, and the performance was amazing.

I'm taking the $250.00 injector harness back that is still in the box to get my money back.


I fixed the FICM and I'm down .03 cents in solder, thanks to you guys!!!


THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!