Can anyone point me to information as to how I remove a currently cracked padded dash from a 1979 F-250, any replacements available from the aftermarket? damage free removal techniques if I have to get one from a junk yard??? smit9759@pacificu.edu

 

You will have to remove the instrument cluster and your glove box. Once you've done that you will see the nuts that hold the dash pad in place. There is also a hidden one that is on the front side of the pad that you will have to do a "Reach Around" to remove.

I just found replacement pads at Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale that are reasonable in price and it looks like it would be as close to OEM as you will get unless you get lucky and find a NOS from eBay. I'm planning on buying one for my 79 from these folks.

I wouldn't recommend the junkyard for a pad because the age of those pads they start to naturally break down and will crack very easily.

I will be replacing my seats and dash pad shortly but I will tint my windows first to help preserve the new material. Also use a front window cover when you are parked outside for any extended amount of time.

 

This may sound silly, but if you have big paws, see if you can find someone with tiny hands to help you out. Really a pita to get to some of the nuts. My wife was a good sport and helped me out.

 

Giggety.
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How many nuts and what size are they?

 

Dash bezel removal is first: Disconnect the battery, and reach up under the dash find the release button on the headlight switch. Push the button and pull the **** and shaft out as one piece. If you can not find it read on….

Then remove the 5 screws first. Far left between the headlight/wiper *****, there are 2 screws, 1 between the *****, and 1 above it, going in straight up. Moving right there are 2 more screws. 1 in the middle, 1 far right, both pointing straight up. Section heater control there is 1 screw pointing straight up.

Heater controls are in behind the dash plastic, they stay where they are, but you will slide/squeeze the levers out of way to prevent them from hooking on the dash bezel.

To remove the wiper **** it has a release clip on its shaft that you can put pressure on with small flat tip screwdriver in the tiny slot, press and release and slide the **** off.

Radio may be behind or in front the dash bezel, depending on how previous owner (P.O.) installed it. If its factory or shaft style, pull the ***** off the radio and you will see shallow nuts on the shafts. Clean the shaft threads with elec cleaner and small brush, because the shafts will strip VERY easily, use a deep set socket on them. Once the nuts are removed, there should be a plastic or metal radio plate to remove. Behind that are 2 more screws holding dash bezel to a metal bracket. But not always…

Okay, under the 3 sections that you see the gauges in, under the middle one there is a plastic tab from the dash bezel that is tucked behind the metal part of the dash. You can see the metal cutout area for it, when the headlight ****/shaft is pulled out or removed all together you can pull up on the plastic dash bezel to get the plastic tab out of the slot.

If you could not find the headlight ****/shaft release button earlier. With all screws out of dash and radio loose, you should be able to tilt it forward and see the headlight switch directly behind where the headlight **** is. So with the shaft pulled out like the headlights are on, you tilt the plastic dash bezel forward to get your hand above the switch and feel for a metal button to press and hold to release the headlight shaft from the headlight switch. **** and shaft will slide out as one piece with the button held down.

Cluster assembly is mounted with 4 screws, once they are out, CAREFULLY pull fwd on the assembly just a little. You need it fwd just enough to get a hand on the speedo cable white plastic connector. If you can not get it fwd enough, push yourself some slack in the cable from the eng compartment.

Then using your hand (best idea) or a small pair of pliers CAREFULLY squeeze the white clip till the cable comes out of the cluster (the white clip will come with it). DO NOT PRY on the clip it, will break and then you have another issue. Squeeze the side of the main electrical connector and it should release.

It is easier to remove the heater vent control assembly/radio mount plate, just remove the 4 small screws and pull it forward. I seem to remember the dash pad nuts are 1/4 or 11/32 ??? and use a 1/4 drive for sure. There are 2 side by side on the far left, 2 side by side on the far right, one dead center on the center tip and 4 more loners. So that makes 9 but I have heard of there being 6 and or 7 on older trucks.

Yes a small handed assistant makes it easier and so does removing the glove box cardboard insert and watch out for a sharp edge on the inside of the dash where the glove box insert was.

 

I have broken more headlight ***** then I care to admit because I never saw that damned button. Great tip!

 

Wow! Thank you for the info, very detailed. Once I find a new dash pad, I will be ready to make the switch out.

 

Well its all in the information details when it comes to working on these old trucks. Once you have ALL the nuts off, the thing will lift right off, so NO prying it required.

Here is another thread that might have more info? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sh+pad+recover

I would just go with getting a new reproduction pad. Unless you can get your old one recovered or reupholstered?? Always an option you know?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sh+pad+recover

 

Here found a pic of one of the studs with out the nut right inline with the glove box closure latch. And another over by the yellow/blue wire, both of them are loners.

The doubles (side by side nuts) are on the far left and right, and if you have a/c vents and ducting especially on the R/H side...PITA.

The R/H side vent blades and the snap in the dash outer box bracket might have to be popped out to be able to get in there.

 

wow! talk about a great answer!! VERY helpful 77&79f250!!!!!!!!!!! gary

 

Its all good, make sure to tape up that sharp edges on the inside of the dash where the glove box/dash part side lip is. THEY ARE SHARP!

You can see them in the 2nd pic, not the long bend, but the side ones. That was before I taped them.