This is a duplicate of information previously posted to my van conversion thread. I'm breaking it out to it's own thread so it will be easier to find.

1999 Ford E-250 with a 4.2L engine.
The van had a rusted through brake line. I ended up replacing most of the brake hardware including all brake lines, calipers and wheel cylinders. This post isn't a HOWTO but does contain information that might be useful if you're tackling the same job.



cost:
Rock Auto
rear brake hose: $14.96
left front brake hose: $13.09
right front brake hose: $14.23

Advance Auto
brake caliper - $44.99 excluding core charge (needed two)
brake pads (Wearever Gold) - $37.89
nickle-copper brake line - 3/16" x 25' - $49.99 (needed two)
brake fittings - 3/16" x 3/8" (5 fittings per package) - $1.99 (needed two)
brake fittings - 3/16" x 7/16" (5 fittings per package) - $2.49 (needed two)
brake fittings - 3/16" x 9/16" (5 fittings per package) - $2.49
brass union - 3/16" x 3/8" - $2.49
brake hose retaining clip - 4 clips per package - $5.49
wheel cylinder - $15.19 (needed two)
brake drum hardware kit - $8.49 (one kit covers both rear wheels)
brake fluid - 32 oz - $5.99 (needed three)
bolts - M8-1.25 x 12mm (needed for one wheel cylinder) - $2.49

Harbor Freight
Double flaring tool - $19.99 - (See more about this farther down)

One blood blister - no charge

Following is some information that would have made the job easier if I'd known it all ahead of time:
Brake fittings and brake line runs. All brake lines are 3/16".

Rear most fitting on the master cylinder. 7/16".
This line runs to the right (drivers) side of the ABS unit directly below the master cylinder.


Front most fitting on master cylinder. 9/16".
This line runs to the top of the brake hose that goes to the drivers side caliper.


Both the fittings on the ABS unit are 7/16".
This line runs down to then along the top of the drivers side frame rail. Aft of the front wheel it runs to the outside of the frame until opposite the fuel filter then curls over the top of the rail to a union.


Top of the brake hose for the driver's side caliper. There are two 3/8" fittings here. One you can see entering at the top and another on the back. One fitting is from the master cylinder. The other goes to a brake line that runs to the passenger side brake hose. The brake line that runs to the rear wheels is visible in the center right of the photo.


Brake hose for the passenger side caliper. The 3/8" fitting enters in the rear.


Rear brake hose. This also a 3/8" fitting. This length of brake line runs from the union near the fuel filter along the inside of the frame rail parallel to the fuel tank to this point. One note about the rear brake hose. The old hose was so rusted to this metal support I had to first use a sawzall to cut away one side of the fitting then use a hammer, punch and some violence to get it free.


Bottom of the rear brake hose. Left fitting is 7/16". It runs to the drivers side wheel cylinder. Right side is 3/8" and runs to the passenger side wheel cylinder.


Both left and right side wheel cylinders use 7/16" fittings.


The two bolts that hold each wheel cylinder take a 10mm socket to remove.


To remove the front calipers you'll need a 13/16" socket for the brackets and a 1/2" for the caliper bolts.


To get the caliper core charge back you'll need to include the bracket. Funny thing about the core charge at Advance Auto. The core charge was more expensive than the new calipers.


Bleed screws. For the wheel cylinders it's 3/8". For the passenger side caliper it's also 3/8" but for the drivers side caliper it's 10mm.


I decided to use nickle-copper brake line as a replacement to steel brake lines for three reasons. It doesn't rust. It's easy to bend and I'll be able to make the needed double flared ends using a cheap Harbor Freight tool.


The reviews for the Double Flare tool on the Harbor Freight site show that it's not tough enough for steel brake line but I hoped it would work well enough with nickle-copper. Almost. A lot of the reviews complained about the small post on the round die snapping off. I was careful with the tool as I made the flares but on, what I thought would be, my last flare the same thing happened with the post snapping off. So I took a larger sized die and used my metal lathe to reduce the diameter of the center post.


Here is the broken die next to the newly machined one.


I'd like to say that everything was just right when I went to bleed the system but that would be a lie. Two of my flares leaked and needed redone. Here I am under the van doing the one that attaches to the rear brake hose.

 

Just now read this all the way through----very useful info indeed Sir!

Another of your typically informative and photo-laden contributions to FTE.

 

Wow, this is great. The plumbing and fittings are pretty much the same (if not identical) on my 93 E350 RV 2WD DRW, so this was very helpful.

Mike

 

Hi, can you tell me when you ran the line from the union near the fuel filter along the inside of the frame rail parallel to the fuel tank (pic.#7)did you take the gas tank off? or how did you do it? Thank you.

 

How you galvanized it so well. Some special galvanizing paint?

 

Rust Bullet. Stuffs expensive but I'll swear by it.