Adding a Third Brake Light
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
yeah its weird
its got a good ground i know cuz i used the same ground when i ran my roof lights
and it should have power unless its shorted somewhere.
the interior light does work
so im thinkin now that i write all this down that light socket itself might have gone bad or somethin
its got a good ground i know cuz i used the same ground when i ran my roof lights
and it should have power unless its shorted somewhere.
the interior light does work
so im thinkin now that i write all this down that light socket itself might have gone bad or somethin
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
[QUOTE=lmd91343;9100027]Convert cargo light to LED third brake light for OLDER pre '92 trucks
QUOTE]
That is pretty cool, but I like having a cargo light. I would rather just upgrade the whole light.
In the picture, it looks like the light on the cab is on with the tail lights not the brake lights. I would wire it up as a brake light not a running light.
QUOTE]
That is pretty cool, but I like having a cargo light. I would rather just upgrade the whole light.
In the picture, it looks like the light on the cab is on with the tail lights not the brake lights. I would wire it up as a brake light not a running light.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 435
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
That is pretty cool, but I like having a cargo light. I would rather just upgrade the whole light.
In the picture, it looks like the light on the cab is on with the tail lights not the brake lights. I would wire it up as a brake light not a running light.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
It just looks like the tail lights are on not the brake lights. It must be the sun light or something.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Oh Man! Really? That stuff is all "tuner" crap. Please No!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All that stuff just looks too ricey and modern for our trucks. I like your smooth tinted tail lights much better. I really like the clear parking lights that match the stock headlights. Actually I like this best. I do also like the crystal clear front lights that look kinda like the ones you have pictured but are 3 peices like the stock ones and do not have the LED crap.
All that stuff just looks too ricey and modern for our trucks. I like your smooth tinted tail lights much better. I really like the clear parking lights that match the stock headlights. Actually I like this best. I do also like the crystal clear front lights that look kinda like the ones you have pictured but are 3 peices like the stock ones and do not have the LED crap.
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From: TX
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Convert cargo light to LED third brake light for OLDER pre '92 trucks
It is brighter than the factory tailights.
I'll post a second entry with detailed wiring instructions and a diagram.
Tools and supplies:
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering Iron or Soldering Gun
Solder
Tube of silicone
Two inches of Heat shrink tubing
Multimeter or continuity tester
Wire strippers or knife
Electrical tape
Parts:
LED bulb:Eagle Eye 5 Wide-Angle 180 degrees High-Powered 5 Watt Led + 4x super-powered SMT Leds RED 1156 (1/4 down the page) This bulb must be used because of its 180* light emission pattern, lighting the entire cargo lens and its extreme brightness.
1156 bulb socket with attached ground wire. There should be no prongs or protrusions on the sides.
15 feet of 18 gauge wire
If Cargo light function is to be maintained:
Additional Tools:
Drill with 1/8 bit
Optional parts:
(2) cheap LED 1156(W) or 3156(W) bulbs (White for backup light) The head of the bulb cannot be more than 1 inch in diameter. I used Jam Strait 1156W I bought at Autozone for about $5
A third, high center brake light is a good idea. It reduces accidents and saves lives. A study published 35 years ago in the “Journal of Applied Psychology” showed an accident reduction rate of over 60%. Those that were involved in rear end accidents reported over 61% fewer injuries. Today our trucks are in the small minority of vehicles without these lights. While two generations of drivers have entered the driving pool expecting to see these lights. The American Psychological Association estimates that for every $1.00 spent on these lights $3.18 is averted. Additionally the LEDs used in third brake lights illuminate quicker than a standard incandescent bulb, giving drivers behind you a few extra feet to stop.
The first set of instruction is to install a third brake light only. The second set is to replace the cargo light functionality. I can’t recall the last time I needed the cargo light. It was a waste of my time to install it in my truck.
Third brake light installation:
1) Remove cargo light from back of cab with Phillips screwdriver. As the 2 screws are removed the lens will drop loose. While the lens is removed clean it if needed.
2) Remove the driver’s door sill.
3) Feed the new 16 gauge wire through the cargo light hole in the back of the cab to the left. When the wire has reached the bottom, continue to feed it, routing it under the carpet and driver’s door sill to the fire wall at the break pedal.
4) Locate the stop lamp switch by the brake pedal. Using the continuity tester or multimeter, find the cold (lamp) side entering the brake switch. On some truck it is light green with a red stripe.
5) Splice (DO NOT CUT) the just located wire to the wire you just added together. If you do not know how to strip the wire, PROPERLY solder, or feel uncomfortable, use a scotch lock 3m connector instead.
6) Replace the door sill.
7) In the cargo light fixture, remove the bulb and socket. Do not allow the wire harness to fall into the hole in the cab wall.
8) From the front of the cargo light fixture, feed the wires and the socket, that you purchased, through the front of the fixture in to the hole the old socket was in. It should be a tight friction fit.
9) Using the continuity tester or multimeter, identify the ground wire in the original cargo light harness.
10) Splice the just located wire from the harness to the ground wire from the new socket. . If you do not know how to strip the wire, PROPERLY solder, or feel uncomfortable, use a scotch lock 3m connector instead.
11) Splice the other wire (switched) the positive wire from the new socket. . If you do not know how to strip the wire, PROPERLY solder, or feel uncomfortable, use a scotch lock 3m connector instead.
12) Seal the back of the socket with silicone.
13) Install the new LED bulb.
14) If you wish to add back the cargo light function, jump to the optional section below.
15) Reinstall the fixture.
16) Turn on the hazard flasher to check the lights!
Optional cargo light installation:
1) Drill a 1/8th inch hole through the back of the reflector half way between the center and the edge.
2) Separate the top disk from the two inexpensive 1156(W) bulbs. Be careful to leave the resistor and two leads attached.
3) Solder the two negative leads (were attached to the bulb’s “can”) together with three inches between and a tail lead of 6 inches extending from one.
4) Solder the two positive leads (were attached to the bulb’s center contact) together with three inches between and a tail lead of 6 inches extending from one.
5) Feed the two six inch leads through the drilled hole.
6) Route the positive and negative 3 inch leads around the center LED bulb. That bulb may need to be removed to route the wires than replaced.
7) Place the two LED disks on the reflector on either side of the center bulb, facing straight back (toward the tailgate) and held in place by a dab of silicone.
8) Splice the positive wire to the old switched cargo light lead.
9) Splice the negative lead to the cargo light ground wire (previously identified).
10) Test by headlamp switch to the brightest position.
11) Jump to step 15 above.
It is brighter than the factory tailights.
I'll post a second entry with detailed wiring instructions and a diagram.
Tools and supplies:
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering Iron or Soldering Gun
Solder
Tube of silicone
Two inches of Heat shrink tubing
Multimeter or continuity tester
Wire strippers or knife
Electrical tape
Parts:
LED bulb:Eagle Eye 5 Wide-Angle 180 degrees High-Powered 5 Watt Led + 4x super-powered SMT Leds RED 1156 (1/4 down the page) This bulb must be used because of its 180* light emission pattern, lighting the entire cargo lens and its extreme brightness.
1156 bulb socket with attached ground wire. There should be no prongs or protrusions on the sides.
15 feet of 18 gauge wire
If Cargo light function is to be maintained:
Additional Tools:
Drill with 1/8 bit
Optional parts:
(2) cheap LED 1156(W) or 3156(W) bulbs (White for backup light) The head of the bulb cannot be more than 1 inch in diameter. I used Jam Strait 1156W I bought at Autozone for about $5
A third, high center brake light is a good idea. It reduces accidents and saves lives. A study published 35 years ago in the “Journal of Applied Psychology” showed an accident reduction rate of over 60%. Those that were involved in rear end accidents reported over 61% fewer injuries. Today our trucks are in the small minority of vehicles without these lights. While two generations of drivers have entered the driving pool expecting to see these lights. The American Psychological Association estimates that for every $1.00 spent on these lights $3.18 is averted. Additionally the LEDs used in third brake lights illuminate quicker than a standard incandescent bulb, giving drivers behind you a few extra feet to stop.
The first set of instruction is to install a third brake light only. The second set is to replace the cargo light functionality. I can’t recall the last time I needed the cargo light. It was a waste of my time to install it in my truck.
Third brake light installation:
1) Remove cargo light from back of cab with Phillips screwdriver. As the 2 screws are removed the lens will drop loose. While the lens is removed clean it if needed.
2) Remove the driver’s door sill.
3) Feed the new 16 gauge wire through the cargo light hole in the back of the cab to the left. When the wire has reached the bottom, continue to feed it, routing it under the carpet and driver’s door sill to the fire wall at the break pedal.
4) Locate the stop lamp switch by the brake pedal. Using the continuity tester or multimeter, find the cold (lamp) side entering the brake switch. On some truck it is light green with a red stripe.
5) Splice (DO NOT CUT) the just located wire to the wire you just added together. If you do not know how to strip the wire, PROPERLY solder, or feel uncomfortable, use a scotch lock 3m connector instead.
6) Replace the door sill.
7) In the cargo light fixture, remove the bulb and socket. Do not allow the wire harness to fall into the hole in the cab wall.
8) From the front of the cargo light fixture, feed the wires and the socket, that you purchased, through the front of the fixture in to the hole the old socket was in. It should be a tight friction fit.
9) Using the continuity tester or multimeter, identify the ground wire in the original cargo light harness.
10) Splice the just located wire from the harness to the ground wire from the new socket. . If you do not know how to strip the wire, PROPERLY solder, or feel uncomfortable, use a scotch lock 3m connector instead.
11) Splice the other wire (switched) the positive wire from the new socket. . If you do not know how to strip the wire, PROPERLY solder, or feel uncomfortable, use a scotch lock 3m connector instead.
12) Seal the back of the socket with silicone.
13) Install the new LED bulb.
14) If you wish to add back the cargo light function, jump to the optional section below.
15) Reinstall the fixture.
16) Turn on the hazard flasher to check the lights!
Optional cargo light installation:
1) Drill a 1/8th inch hole through the back of the reflector half way between the center and the edge.
2) Separate the top disk from the two inexpensive 1156(W) bulbs. Be careful to leave the resistor and two leads attached.
3) Solder the two negative leads (were attached to the bulb’s “can”) together with three inches between and a tail lead of 6 inches extending from one.
4) Solder the two positive leads (were attached to the bulb’s center contact) together with three inches between and a tail lead of 6 inches extending from one.
5) Feed the two six inch leads through the drilled hole.
6) Route the positive and negative 3 inch leads around the center LED bulb. That bulb may need to be removed to route the wires than replaced.
7) Place the two LED disks on the reflector on either side of the center bulb, facing straight back (toward the tailgate) and held in place by a dab of silicone.
8) Splice the positive wire to the old switched cargo light lead.
9) Splice the negative lead to the cargo light ground wire (previously identified).
10) Test by headlamp switch to the brightest position.
11) Jump to step 15 above.
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