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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Which computer ECC to buy

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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 04:19 AM
  #1  
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Which computer ECC to buy

I want to buy a new computer for my 1985 F150 EFI 302 manual transmission. Autozone seems to have the biggest selection, however none of the numbers match. Mine is E5tf-12A650-R1A. The number for the one without CA emissions and high altitude emissions is E5TF-12A650-VA or E5TF-12A650-TA. Does it matter if I put one of those in?

Thanks
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by bookpile
I want to buy a new computer for my 1985 F150 EFI 302 manual transmission. Autozone seems to have the biggest selection, however none of the numbers match. Mine is E5TF-12A650-R1A. The number for the one without CA emissions and high altitude emissions is E5TF-12A650-VA or E5TF-12A650-TA. Does it matter if I put one of those in?
None of these numbers you posted are Ford part numbers, they're Ford ID engineering numbers...as marked on the ECM's.

There are no Ford part numbers marked on any parts after 1956, just ID engineering numbers.

ID number: E5TF-12A650-R1A = Ford part number: E5TZ12A650RA

ID numbers: E5TF-12A650-TA, -T1A, -T2A = Ford part number: E5TZ12A650TA.

ID numbers: E5TF-12A650-VA, -V1A = Ford part number: E5TZ12A650VA

The ECM must match the trucks specific Calibration Code, otherwise the engine may not run correctly.

You cannot use a specific to CA ECM on a non CA vehicle and vice versa. CA vehicles have some special emissions equipment, different from the other 49 states.

What's wrong with your ECM that you have to replace it?
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 04:53 PM
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Bill,

Thank you, you've been very helpful. Autozone and Napa both list E5TZ12A650RA for a truck with high altitude emissions. I'm surprised by that as this truck was ordered in Pennsylvania. Does that number being high altitude correspond with your information?

As to why I need a new one, I accidentally applied 12v+ to one of the two wires for ecc coolant temperature sensors. I saw sparks fly and the truck would not restart unless I spray ether in the intake. After that it will keep idling but very roughly. I checked the fusible links by the starter seloniod with a pin and a volt meter and they had continuity.

It was suggested in another thread that I probably burnt out the computer, do you have any other ideas before I drop the money on this?

Thanks,

Travis

 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Is there a removable cover on the ECU? At this point, you have nothing to lose by opening it up, and looking to see if one or more connections/diodes, ect has released the magic smoke that makes these things work. I call it magic smoke since letting it escape "magically" makes the item never work again........
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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I've always referred to it as, "you let the smoke out."

I'd personally suspect a blown transistor or IC (Integrated Circuit):
<img src=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/64/Electronic_component_transistors.jpg width=200> <img src=http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Zilog/Web%20Photos/Z-18-DIP.jpg width=200>
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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I've always referred to it as: Just taught it how to smoke! or Just teaching it how to smoke!

Can't say I've ever done it though ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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Electronics function on smoke. Don't believe it? Let the smoke escape, and when it is all gone, the electronic device will no longer function.
That's what a shop teacher taught me years ago. I still find it valid today.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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I would go with the Napa controller if it was my truck.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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all electrical components have smoke built in and when you let the smoke out all the magic is gone.
 
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