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EBPV causing NO turbo boost?

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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:25 AM
  #16  
Izzy351's Avatar
Izzy351
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
About warm-ups -- there are guys in all over the country, cold, hot, in-between, with after market turbos (pretty much all of them don't have EBPVs in their outlets. It's not something I'd worry about. It does sound cool when it closes & idles up (kind of like the 6.0L when first started with its variable-vanes). We get to 110+ here sometimes, but we also get into single digits. I simply start my truck, let the fluids get moving, and drive it "gingerly" until it's warm.

Normal EGTs will vary with tuning, exhaust, intake, etc. Getting on it with a stock turbo will cause them to shoot way up there, how far depends on the above. I can bury my 1600* gauge, but I have a lot of fuel... LOL Backrpessure will start around 15psi (barometric pressure), and go up as you get on it. You have to subtract the 14.x psi to get the actual number to compare it to boost. Mine can get up to 50ish psi, but subtracting 14.x, it's right where my boost is at ~35-36psi, so it's about 1:1. That's with my van turbo with larger exhaust housing. The stock turbo will be reasonable, until you get way up in the RPM range. The smaller exhaust housing becomes more of a restriction and the EGTs & back pressure will shoot up at a certain point, again, dependent on tuning and all the rest. Sorry I can't be more specific, but maybe someone with a truck with similar mods can get some numbers for you. Anything I get will be pretty meaningless to compare to yours...
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by wolfrace
you can also make an adapter that attachs to your intake ,so that you can hook a compressor up to and blow compressed air into your IC pipes and listen for air leaks.............

I have a wickedwheel and turbonetics ebv delete and run 29 psi.....

How do you have your boost gauge hooked up?
The Previous owner hooked all of this stuff up, so I don't know exactly, but there is a NON factory T in the hose for the map sensor (I guess for this application it is a boost sensor)

I did make an adaptor, I am kind of on a budget until I sell my 2002 fully loaded mercury sable (incase anybody is interested, i need to sell it this weak or transfer the title to my name). The adaptor I built is just a 3" pvc cap, with a high pressure valve stem in it (free valve stem from my shop), when I supply it with air, it leaks down preety fast, how well should it hold 15lbs, should it not leak at all, or only loose so many lbs per minute?
When I did hook it up, it sounded like there was a leak somewere near the back, but was hard to find, since the pressure drained down so fast.
I am only putting about 15lbs in when using the adaptor, what is the max I can go to find the leaks?
Thanks again for all the help, Keep it comin any info is useful.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 10:04 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by wolfrace
Good call up-pipes and IC pipes..................... If you haven't done the ccv mod check for oil leaks around the boots and black around your up-pipes around the pipe to collector area...............
I got the truck back from Brian Bemis Ford of Sycamore illinois. Talked to the mechanic while I was there and he is saying that it needs that back pressure to get boost Sad part is , i could not get the truck unless I paid the $150 diagnostic fee.

I decided to talk to my old employer Brad Manning Ford of Dekalb illinois, the deisel tech I talked to earlier (the one who said that the EBPV was on top and the wastgate was on bottom) is on vacation now, but they hired another deisel tech, and he is making alot more sense. He sounds like he truly knows what he is talking about. So I am leaving it with them for a few days to look at. I may even beable to get a real diagnosis, and go back to Brian Bemis with it and get my diagnostic fee back.

While I had it, I looked underneath at the exhaust, and there is absolutly NO leaking from the up pipes. the black spot on the firewall has got to be blowback from the pcv, so I will probably do that mod next.
I also hooked up our shop scanner (OTC genesys) and the ebp reads same as the baro when the engine is off (good sign) Then reads about 15, and goes to around 16 when I rev it, so I think that is good. I also had a coworker watch the ebpv linkage, and right after I started it, it moved out a little, then when I reved it, the linkage moved back in. from what I remember, the "home" position (linkage is all the way to the driver's side) means the ebpv is open, so I see no problems there.

As I was talking to the NEW mechanic at BRAD MANNING FORD, he is saying that it could also be caused by low fuel pressure, and that the fuel pressure can drop enough to eliminate the boost even though the truck runs fine, but he wants to look at it first. Could this guy be on to something hear? It was about a month ago I replaced the fuel filter with a (do I dare say it) an Autozone one, and it was right about then that the boost dropped from 10 to 5 psi.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 07:54 AM
  #19  
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ok i am having the same issue with my 01 f 450 i have no boost until after 2k rpms and when i get on it the most boost i can get is about 14 psi which is a far cry from what im sure this 7.3 will handle i also have alot of oil in my charge piping i currently have the turbo removed and am planning on rebuilding it with new bearings seals and such and am going to clean everything before reassembly does anyone have any info or experience with deleting the backpressure vavle or the crankcase vent into the intake and are their any electrical reprocussions
 

Last edited by machinestheman; Mar 5, 2011 at 08:25 AM. Reason: multiple post
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:21 AM
  #20  
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Joined: Sep 2010
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CCV mod...

Welcome to guzzle's CCV mod web page

For the ebpv delete, need a grinder, shave the 2-riveted heads holdingthe plate on shaft, then remove plate, and shaft will come out from atop, then you'll need to plug,weld,bolt it..etc, where the shaft came out.

For the pedastal, it was a while ago, but think you unscrew the "heim" end, then on backside of pedastal, remove the ring-clip, and plate, then the "unit" will fall out from that side. While its removed, now either plug, tap and run bolt into...etc, to plug where the rod extended thru, then re-install the plate and ring-clip/snap-ring...
 
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 10:42 AM
  #21  
HD Rider's Avatar
HD Rider
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Glendive, MT
Originally Posted by Mr. Finch
The Previous owner hooked all of this stuff up, so I don't know exactly, but there is a NON factory T in the hose for the map sensor (I guess for this application it is a boost sensor)

I did make an adaptor, I am kind of on a budget until I sell my 2002 fully loaded mercury sable (incase anybody is interested, i need to sell it this weak or transfer the title to my name). The adaptor I built is just a 3" pvc cap, with a high pressure valve stem in it (free valve stem from my shop), when I supply it with air, it leaks down preety fast, how well should it hold 15lbs, should it not leak at all, or only loose so many lbs per minute?
When I did hook it up, it sounded like there was a leak somewere near the back, but was hard to find, since the pressure drained down so fast.
I am only putting about 15lbs in when using the adaptor, what is the max I can go to find the leaks?
Thanks again for all the help, Keep it comin any info is useful.
For your boost leak detector you need a regulator so you can keep a constant pressure on it. I set mine at 20 psi but you can go to what ever you turbo should produce.

The fact that you were reading a vacuum in the MAP line is a puzzle. My boost gauge lifts off zero as soon as I start the truck. Did a mouse built a nest in your air filter? Check the snorkel also to make sure it is clear.
 
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