Finally ordered a new trans for my truck I went with the ford reman because of the warranty and my dad knows a guy at ford so I ended up paying less than it would have cost to rebuild it and they are floating the core so I just have to take them the old one instead of paying twice as much then taking in the old one and getting half my money back.

So is there any thing i need to watch out for while changing this thing out?

 

I assume you are going with a new torque converter? Make sure it is properly seated in the trans before you bolt it up.
If the fluid in the old trans was contaminated with debris you will also need to flush the cooler and lines.
Sounds like you got a good deal.

 

i have a t19 and tcase i could have sold u cheep

 

Please Please put a new Torque converter on ... It's nearly impossible to get old filth out of them.

As stated, Flush all the remaining system components THROUGHLY!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Ford wont even sell the reman tranies with out a new convertor and I'm replaceing my auxilery cooler and flushing the in rad cooler. But there isn't any debree in my fluid I sheered the forward clutches.

 

Just waiting for ford to call trans should be there any minute.

 

Awesome, didn't know that about Ford reman auto trans... I wouldn't, I would never buy one, Only because I wouldn't own one, I don't like automatics, But thats a personal thing thats to each their own!

There is always debris in used oil!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Warranty will require an inline magnetic filter on the return line from the cooler. You probably know that already but since you didn't mention it I though I would just in case.

Keep us posted on how the new one runs because I'm curious if they are any firmer than an original factory build. My hunch is they are firming up the valve body calibration but I can't prove that theory yet.

Lowering and raising the transmission will be the worst of the ordeal. The top 2 inches closest to the engine will be the most time consuming. Lots of raising in fractions of an inch and then sliding it slightly forward. I have a shop floor to work on so I had the truck wheels blocked and rolled the truck forward and aft as needed instead of moving the transmission.

I didn't have a transmission jack though and had to make do with a system of 2~3 separate jacks and lots of wooden blocks.

 

When I replaced the clutch in front of my T-19, I had the truck just sitting on the ground, and jacked the tranny up most of the way. For the last couple inches i got a buddy to help me and we just lifted it up and manuvered it until it slid in.

That thing was heavy as hell.

 

one thing you need to know about doin the swap... remove the clamp for the downpipe. also make sure when you put the tranny back on, the foil wrap around the uppipe doesnt get caught between the engine and the bell housing. happened to me twice in a row.

 

I think I just put my shoulder blade out reading that! The E4OD is even heavier....

Although with my method, I raised and lowered it attached to the transfer case as one assembly. I didn't do any really heavy lifting, but there was a lot of maneuvering around, reaching, and trying to get the *&^%$$ING creeper to roll over a pebble about 2 microns big

Yeah I forgot to mention, you will need a full vocabulary to persuade everything to cooperate although I had no help to do mine.

 

I usually cut the heads off some long bolts, and thread them only finger-tight into a couple empty mounting holes on the engine. Usually about six-eight inches long. Lift the tranny up, align the sawn-off bolts with the proper holes in the tranny. That way, it goes in straight with the minimum amount of wrestling/cocking. If it has a clamp devise, as most do, holding the torque converter in, I only remove it when the tranny is close to being in, that way the converter shouldn't pop out of place. There are 4 studs (on mine, anyway) on the converter that join the converter to the flywheel. I usually mark one or more hole positions on the outside of the flywheel with paint for a visual reference. After the converter studs go into the flywheel, push the tranny up to the engine, before putting nuts on the converter studs, try rotating the converter slightly. The holes in the flywheel are slightly egg-shaped, and, if you can rotate it back and forth slightly, it means your oil pump in the tranny and the torque converter are still aligned good. If NOT, your converter has slipped out and if you bolt it together tight, you will destroy the pump.

 

well I finally fired it up and just from putting it into gear to get the fluid level I am not liking the weak engagement at all feels like if I try to drive it it will burn up

 

It takes a little time to get all the air out of the transmission and there are also some slip rings that will leak fliud pressure for a short time after its first up and running (need to break in).

Cycle the lever in every position a few times and see how it feels after that. Hold each position for at least 2 seconds before moving to the next. Move from drive, through neutral to reverse a few times as well. This will repeatedly engage the main clutch pistons and hopefully purge air that may be present.

The engagement might be a little sluggish, but does it actually pull against the brakes?

 

it pulls ok its just the engagement is just so smoth and unnoticeable.