[QUOTE]Originally posted by brianjwilson
[B]I planned on bringing my own plugs when I had it done. It seems like I've heard that people haven't had a lot of success with bosch plugs in their Rangers, which is what I wanted, but Superranger hasn't said anything negative about his. I think the dealership wanted $10.95 per plug for double platinums anyway! When he told me that price I was like, "That's not just for the plugs, is it?" He nodded. Rediculous...


My understanding is that platinum plugs have one sole advantage over conventional: they last longer. So, you need to weigh the additional cost per plug vs. the trouble factor of replacing them. With your engine, I think I'd stick with platinums.

BTW, don't accept the dealer's price on those plugs. There's this WONDERFUL resource called the internet...

 

I haven't had any problems with mine so far, in fact I've only have good things to say about them.

The one thing that I like most about the +4's is that they never lose their gap, like a conventional plug will. Only bad thing is that they are set from the factory and that there is no way to measure the gap on the new ones.

I felt that their was a significant change in performance when I went from my factory plugs to the bosch's, but that change was probably due to my old plugs being out of gap more than just the bosch plug it self.

It really comes down to what floats your boat, just make sure that they are a high quality double platinum plug and that they are gapped correctly.

 

Well I cleaned the MAF on Tuesday, and climbed a few hills on Wednesday. No luck, still pings up the hills. I put some 89 octane gas in the tank before I headed home, and no pinging on the way back. Guess I'll stick to my routine for now, run 87 in town, 89 when I'm out of town. I'll keep saving for my other maintenance. Brakes gotta come first for safety. Then changing transfer case and manual transmission oil, coolant, air filter, plugs & wires, yadda yadda yadda...
Thanks for all the help,
Brian J Wilson

 

I decided to give cleaning the MAF a try, but I wimped out on the Ranger. Instead, I went through a trial run on my '93 Sable (my beat car). The Sable has the 3.8L Ford engine in it with a MAF setup very similar to the 4.0L Ranger. I used a Dremel tool to cut a slit in the head of the security screws (same screws as on Ranger). Worked great. When I pulled out the sensor I couldn't believe how dirty it was! It was CAKED with crud. It took quite a few sprays with some STP Air Intake/Throttle Body Cleaner, and several forced air bursts to clean it up. There was a screen that also had a few large specks of dirt which I also sprayed and blew out.

While doing this, I also noticed that the gasket between where the air intake duct attaches to the car body had pretty much disintegrated, allowing in too much dirty air from the engine compartment. So I fashioned a new gasket out of some 1" foam insulation, again cleaned out everything all out with forced air, and then put it all back together again. The air filter was only a month old so I reused it.

Finally, I took off the negative battery cable for 10 minutes to reset the computer. Don't know if that was necessary, but what the heck.

I have noticed two improvements. (1) The car definitely idles much better; before it was always inconsistent. Nice and steady now at exactly 800 RPM; (2) Better response now when I step on the throttle, at least it seems that way. I think the improved air flow has helped this out as much as anything.

I am definitely going to do the same thing to my Ranger when I get a chance. I know the MAF won't be nearly as dirty on the Ranger but now that I know what to expect, I have no more reservations. Once again, FTE comes through with a great tip, and my vehicle is running better as a result. Thanks all!

 

Someone from the Ranger Station posted this link which has some very good info on the MAF and how it operates:

http://www.flash.net/~rfm2/massair.htm