So I am wondering, is the turbo factory? Does the filter box say FORD? Or something else. I think if says ATS or anything else it will be aftermarket and already have the larger outlet and 3" down pipe.

In my gallery there are pictures of the factory turbo housing outlet and down pipe, also the upgrades. You can see a big difference and feel it in the seat of your pants.

 

Thanks for your reply/question.

I think just the exhaust was replaced downstream of the manifold by previous owner. The turbo, airbox and exhaust mani all look stock to me. Yes, airbox says Ford (actually I think Ford Turbo if I remember correctly).

The exhaust/manifold is surface rusted but runs straight down and around near the oil pan. It connects to a stainless 3" exhaust. I don't recall what the transition looks like, will look again after work tonight.

Maybe next step will be to cut out the muffler and clamp in a straight pipe when I do the injectors and then adjust the timing.

 

Turbo outlet flange.
Stock Ford right, ATS left



Turbo down pipe
Stock Ford right, ATS left



ATS designed the stock Ford turbo system.
But the floor pan to engine clearance was so tight, Ford used a smaller turbo outlet flange, then ran over the down pipe with a few fork trucks to smash it flat so there was no cab downpipe interferance and no rattles.

A side effect was the turbo spooled slower and boost was kept lower, which dropped the power enough that it was lower than the Power Stroke that came out mid year in 94.

IDI turbo rated at 190 HP
Power Stroke in 94 was rated at 215 HP

The 94 to 97 Power Stroke also used that same smashed down pipe, which is why none of them made more that 235 HP which was in 97.

ATS did sell the turbo upgrade outlet flange and down pipe, until recently.
So someone may have changed them already.

Or another possibility is the stock outlet and down pipe are still on the truck, they just installed a 3" from the down pipe back.

When you are on a good pull, you want a light haze of black out of the exhaust.
That is the most fuel you can completely burn for the amount of air you have in the cylinders.
Dark clouds are just wasted fuel and usually very high EGT temps.

Diesels need air.
The more air you can get in the cylinders, the better off you are.
Even a stock injection system in decent shape can get you more fuel that you can burn completely.

 

Hello, Just reporting on progress with my 94 IDI Turbo dually. I just finished towing my 22' car trailer (est 7000#) the 130 hilly miles to Lime Rock Park and back yesterday. Clearly the motor is smoother, and with the new radiator runs much cooler. I was seeing around 950 degrees EGT under full pull at 2500 RPM and ~40 MPH and 8 pounds of boost. On flatter grounds I keep it around 2000 RPM and ~60 MPH and it was staying in the 700 degrees EGT. It runs and pulls great except on long or steep hills so I'll continue to try and improve the truck's performance. These EGTs are close to 300 degrees cooler than what I was seeing before the new rad. I also replaced the thermostat, hoses, cap and flushed. For whatever reason I am now really noticing the fan clutch coming on and off. I never noticed it before even when testing it, but now it's working for sure.

I noticed on this tow that my braking is longer/worse even with new front tires. It looks like my rear suspension is compressed with this new heavier trailer and lifting my front suspension so I think a rear air bag suspension is needed. Is the Firestone 2071F the correct part for the dually? Can someone recommend a dealer that helps support this board?

Dave, good advice, thanks. If ATS doesn't sell something like that flange and downpipe anymore what is the best alternative? Transition from stock flange and away from the floor plan with a small tube , or transition to a larger tube? Or upgrade the complete system to Hypermax or Banks? What I have now looks all stock until the end of the manifold where it transitions to a larger 3" tube and runs back to the new muffler. I think the motor is currently burning very clean, no smoke except for a small white puff on startup. It used to be much larger until I redid the glow plugs and relay, and now even less with the new starter because it spins/starts the motor a lot faster.

As always, very much appreciate the support and advice here!

 

If it's still burning clean (no black smoke) when pulling hard you can turn the fuel up a little, you want to see just a slight dark haze to the exhaust stream when pulling hard.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Thanks Festus!

 

I forgot to mention, thats a Ford factory ATS Turbo, it's waste gated, you can turn the boost up as well... 7.3L 15lbs MAX, but you're better off a pound or two under for motor longevity.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Yep just got back from a long highway trip with the camper on in hot weather - fan clutch coming on is an unmistakeable roaring under the hood, much louder than when not engaged. My truck runs in the lower quarter of the temp guage all the time, but I'm not towing anything. Truck did great over 3000 km , did not use any oil or overheat or have any other issues (I'm excited by all this because just bought the truck in June).
Good luck with your truck and it sounds like things got a lot better with your new rad, so that has to feel good.

Scotty