Hi first post. I've owned my Feb 94 7.3 IDI DRW for probably a year and a half and used it mostly around town and to tow my open race car trailer. I have replaced brakes/mc/booster, glow plugs, IP, GP relay, starter relay. I like the truck for towing and bought an enclosed car trailer, prob 7000# empty (will weigh it soon), or 10K# loaded. Pulling this much weight I'm ******* it up hills, AC is off limits. Running around 900-1000 degrees on the EGTs at around 10# boost @ about 35-40 MPH on long hills, water temp gauge is in the top 1/3. In the fall I towed my open car trailer over the sierra to Reno and it came close to overheating twice. Sucks when Miatas with tire trailers are whipping my *** up a hill. I've put together a whole performance plan - I've fabbed up a cold air intake to the stock box, I'll run Seafoam and then additive on each tank, probably a new radiator, test fan clutch, turn up IP, replace injectors, maybe add an electric fuel pump. It doesn't have to scream up hills, but I want a safe, cool running, strong puller for the longer drives where I can run AC and listen to the radio instead of all windows down running the heater to keep the motor cool. That's the back story, for my plan I am deciding on these things....

1. What injectors are best for this kind of application? I've seen lots of different types referenced in my searches but not really clear.

2. Also I have a 3" exhaust and thinking of upgrading from turbo back - 3" twins or 4" single?

Sorry for the rambling post, thanks in advance for help. Really have done a lot of searches...

 

If you are having heating issues, I would address that area first. I'd suggest a full flush and refill, of course using either SCA's, or an extended life coolant with SCA protection.

I would also think about adding some better gauges, the factory ones are known for inaccuracy.

Last, check the fan clutch, make sure that it's locking in, maybe it isn't doing so (you should hear it) at the higher temps and help keep things cool.

 

Thank you. I bought the FSM for the truck from a guy on Ebay, I plan to follow the testing procedure for the fan clutch this weekend, I'm not really sure what to listen for. I've got boost, egt and trans temp gauges, but upgraded temp and OP guages would def be a plus. Right now I'm pretty sure they're working about right but maybe I'll go ahead and test them too. Simple enough, the senders are right there.

So what I've found for injectors is "G" Code which indicates 93 and 94 Turbo IDI motors. I've found them in 2 places, one no name the other Stanadyne. Is there an aftermarket upgrade that will flow better if I add elec fuel pump and turn up IP?

 

G code are the correct ones.......You can do tweeking of the IP........ timing should be checked after the new injectors. Get NEW Stanadyne injectors there are lots of sellers on ebay and the guys here would give you their preferences.

Mine...... 7.3 L Ford Diesel Fuel Injectors Fuel Pumps Accessories

Tell us where you are located and someone local may have the place for you to get things.

Fan test is 2 parts on my pics..........select 90 pics per page.

 

you can throw in some bb codes they will give you more power

 

Thank you PLC. I am in central Mass, near Worcester. A friend also referred me to that same online place, looks really good.

 

welcome to FTE ajgoldsmith.

the IDI diesel is not a very high HP engine.with it's low HP,its going to slow on the hills.
your peak HP is @ 3k rpm.so you want to let her talk before you get to the hill to help keep your rpms up and your momentum going.

the IP and injectors are both medium ware items and its recommended to change them every 100k miles.
its also very important to have higher mileage engines checked for compression.
having the engine properly timed is also a must,generally every 30k miles.
coolant flush every 50k is a good idea as well.along with a new thermostat.there's no need to wait until your current one fails and leaves you broke down,or worse.....a burned up engine.replacing the radiator cap every other coolant flush is also recommended.

for performance,you may want to consider;
3" exhaust (with a custom Y pipe and free flow muffler) or dual 2.5" your idea of "3" twins or 4" single" will not yield anything extra in performance with the IDI,just a deeper exhaust tone.
MOOSE ip (from Mel)
custom ground torque cam (from Russ)
if you have the factory ATS turbo,there is an upgraded exhaust outlet for it,then you want the larger 3" down pipe to go with it.
if your rear gear ratio is 3.55,a 4.10 gear swap would really make a big difference for take off and hills towing this much weight.

 

Reno ... Mass, Hmmm do some traveling racing or what ???

Anything over 3.5 inch is over kill ... Nothing wrong with a little over kill when it comes to free flowing exhaust, I would go Single 3.5" or more, not less and a good quality free flowing muffler.

What rear gears ??

The Clutch fan should sound like a tornado under the hood when it locks up, you shouldn't be able to miss it.

Electric fuel pump is not going to help, the manual lift pump is far more reliable.

IMO IP and Injectors should be replaced at the same time.

IIRC A stock 7.3 will take about 15lbs boost max safely, someone will verify.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

15lb idk festus that sounds a little high without head studs i would say 13 max and thats pushin it but idk just goin by what ive heard and read

 

Great info, thank you all.

@Festus - I used to live in Norcal, now I live in Mass. I don't go too far to race, but 5-6 hours is not uncommon.

@Stroker - Thank you. I thought I had seen bb's referenced but I wasn't clear because the dealers note G for my year. If I'm replacing them, I'd like whatever will give me the most pop. No mods necessary - bb's are just better for performance?

Stupid question - how do you generate more boost? I noticed towing last weekend I got up to around 10# (hard to read on my dinky little guage down by my knee, yet another project...)

My exhaust looks like it has stock manifolds and the drivers side pipe that runs two 90* turns around the oil pan up to the turbo. They join near the turbo into what looks like an upgraded 3" exhaust all the way to the back and through a round muffler. Is this stock or an upgrade? Is there anything I can do with this? Where can I get that 3" turbo fitting?

Thanks again, I appreciate all your help.

 

We'll have to chat sometime about Norcal and/or Racing ...

As for the 3" down pipe, That would be from ATS, Unfortunately they have been back ordered for a long time and appears that will be the case for some time to come.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Hi there, just updating the thread with my truck build up. Over the last month I have tested the fan clutch and radiator, replaced rad, cap, thermo, and hoses (not sure how old, better safe than sorry as long as it's flushed out). Fan clutch doesn't sound like a tornado but tests out ok. I've also seafoamed the oil and gas and when out and romped on it for half an hour and then replaced fuel and air filter and did an oil/filter change. I added Diesel Clean, and replaced the serp belt and the two front tires that were starting to show some dry rot. Again, good insurance when you're out towing down the highway alone.

I'll turn the IP up one flat on Thursday. It's already starting to really feel different - smoother and more responsive I think from the seafoam and diesel clean. I'm towing my car trailer 3 hours to Lime Rock on Friday. I'm going to make sure and run the motor and trans as cool as possible as usual and not run OD on the uphills, and if still ******* it on the hills then my next step is new bb injectors (my IP is very low miles - had it done a year ago along with glow plugs). If still not satisfied I'll start to seriously think about a Hypermax or Banks WG turbo and and free flowing exhaust. That's a lot of coin but I like the truck and cheaper than buying a new one.

This website and you guys have been a great resource. I wasn't sure what to do about this truck but now have a plan and following it. I really hope investing in it will pay off. Will report back this weekend on how the drive goes.

 

Get rid of the muffler, the turbo does a good job of chopping up the exhaust pulses.

If you have a 3" exhaust, it is an upgrade.

The G code injectors were more for emissions than power.
However, the BB code injectors will pop a little early pressure wise.

You can overcome that with timing.

Are you getting any black smoke while towing when you pull a hill?

 

this isnt my thread but when i was pulling a load of logs up hills it was smoking like a chimney and i haven't touched the fuel pump... is that good or bad?

 

Hi Dave, I haven't seen any. It usually puffs some white smoke on startup and then I really don't see any other smoking.

I do have a 3" exhaust, it looks aftermarket with a round muffler probably 10" in diameter and 18" long. I do believe the rest of the exhaust around the manifolds looks stock.