I will try to find some 30R10.

 

i did my hutch mod today, i dont know why alot of guys are having such a hard time getting the parts around for the hutch mod. 3/8 steel line, 5/16 steel line, 3/8 compression union, 5/16 compression union. i got all my parts at Oreilys and it cost me $14. i think its an utter waste of cash to buy the kits for $100 or more. the hardest thing is dropping the tank and reinstalling it.

 

This is another option i am considering since i am not convinced ss is required. Did you cut the flared ends off? What length of 3/8 did you get? What length of 5/16? Did you see the need to sand off the outer coating? What did you use as a bending tool?

 

Viton hose shouldn't be adversely affected by diesel both inside and out. I'm not sure if it would hold up to the pressure. It can be purchased from McMaster-Carr.

 

I cut the flare end off of one end only. A 12" stick of each size should be plenty. You only need a little over 4" of 3/8" line. If you like a can cut you a piece and send it to you. Any auto parts store should have a tubing bender that will make nice professional bends for cheap.

Flexible hose will not work on the suction side because the foot is made of molded rubber so you won't be able to clamp a hose over it without crushing it.

Here is a write-up I did with some pics a while back. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8743168

 

Did the 5/16 tube reach beyond the sending unit? Why 3/8 rather than 5/16 fuel hose since the rail pump is 5/16 inlet and outlet? I see no pictures. What inline filter did you use.

I am favoring following your lead. This should work long term.

 

I dropped the 5/16" return line close to the fuel pickup in order to help prevent gelling issues in the winter. I have driven in temps as low as -40* F so you can understand my concern there. The only reason to add any line to the return is to make sure it is always submerged to prevent any drainback or loss of prime.

I used 3/8" hose because that is the size of the suction line at the fuel sender and seemed to be what everyone else has used. I don't really see any reason 5/16" hose would not work. I also lined up all materials before starting the project.

For a filter I used one from NAPA pn 730-9562, post #5 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...h-filters.html

 

All the pictures opened this time. We enjoy pictures.
Does your truck still have a rail pump with 5/16 ends? You obviously had no problems clamping to seal. Is there really a need to replace the screen in the foot?
I am guessing you are 3/8 to the rail pump and 5/16 to the fuel bowl, right?

 

dropping the return near the pick up only allows some of the returned air bubbles to re enter into the pick up..it should return away from the pick up so the air bubbles can escape to the top of the tank...I did my in tank with ITP's kit and have a bowl delete with a 2 micron down on the frame..we see -40 bellow 0 with out the wind quite often up here...knock on wood but I have yet to ever gel..I've driven tractor trailer for almost 25 years and never had a problem with it gelling ether..
heat the hose and slip onto the tube on the sendor so the hose will slip over the lip on the sendor tube..clamp the hose on both sides of the lip...same for the pump...heat the hose..slip it on..clamp it...but i will say push locks are a lot better...

 

This sounds like you and HD Rider did similar in tank mods.

Did you use brake line? Did you only make changes inside the tank for $14? I also think the kits are a waste of cash. How long did you make your 5/16 line?

This is the route i plan to go. I am planning it for this week-end.
I know to use a short line for 3/8. Which length did you use for the 5/16?

 

I just did the mods.

I found that I only needed 3" of 3/8" solid line to do the pickup foot modification and keep the foot the same distance from the top mounting surface. My tank measured just under 15" from the mounting flange to the bottome of the tank. It seems that the tube needs to reach down past the alternate inlet valve on the side of the foot assembly in order to eliminate it as a possible air leak when the tank is low. It the tube extends too far, it will damage the screen in the bottom of the foot and probably the tank bottom.

To eliminate the quick disconnect at the tank outlet, I used a compression fitting that went from 3/8" tube to 1/4" female pipe thread, combined with a 90 degree elbow that converted the 1/4" male pipe thread to a 5/16" hose nipple. I used the elbow because a straight fitting would kink the hose against the frame due to lack of space. Since I had the box off and did not drop the tank, I cut off the end of the factory hose and slipped it on the nipple with a clamp. If I had dropped the tank, I would have cut off the stock hose at the line on the frame and used new rubber 5/16" hose between the two points.

At the pump, I cut the hose off the stock line aft of the pump and slipped a 5/16" hose over it with clamps. I used a NAPA 3007 clear plastic fuel filter (1960-1994 Mercedes) that has 5/16" inlet and outlet. I ran a short hose between the filter and the pump.

I discovered that the stock outlet hose is made of a thin plastic with a fire-and abrasion-resistant cover over it. It is pretty stiff, but you can get the hose barb in there, just barely.

I used stainless tubing for the in-tank mods. The 5/16" extension of the return line was a 3" (roughly) offset with two legs about 12" long. As I mentioned earlier, I only needed 3" of the 3/8" line to replace the mixer valve and bypass the alternate inlet.

If you wanted to use 3/8" hose from the tank to the pump, you could expand the inlet side of the pump by using a 5/16" compression fitting with a 1/4" NPT female end. Then use a 1/4" NPT by 3/8" hose barb. This way you get a good fit on the hose.

I used WD-40 on the plastic nut when I replaced the gauge/inlet assembly. It made it much easier to screw the nut back on. The nut sure wanted to cross-thread. When you think you have it started, measure around the inside of the nut to make sure it is the same distance from the inlet plate all the way around.

My tank and screens were spotless, even after nearly 275,000 miles. The NAPA 3007 filter is so cheap, I will be keeping a spare behind the seat.

 

I see others have answered most of your questions.

Yes I do still have the stock rail pump. The line from the pump to the bowl is stock and untouched. I had no trouble clamping the hose to seal. I only removed the screen on the bottom of the foot to prevent damage to it and to insert the steel tube. When you are done just snap it back in place and reinstall the sending unit.

I'm never on the computer very long so if you have questions feel free to give me a call. (406) 939-0177

 

put the plastic ring in some hot (probably boiling) water or the microwave ( what i used) you will need gloves or a rag probably but it will screw right back on!

 

When I tried the "hot" ring method, it was very easy to cross-thread. WD-40 lube allowed me to do it cold, and it was easier to get the ring started square.

 

Thats interesting, its the same experience I have trying to do with lube of some sort, I can't ever get it square. I guess you have to try both and do what works!