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So I have a 95 with the 300I6/mazda 5 speed combo. Anyone know what the stock gear ratio is in that, or how to identify it. I'm looking to go to 3.55's, or more preferably 3.73's. Is there a way to tell without pulling the cover off and counting teeth? Also, do I have to replace the pinion gear with the rest to change ratios?
Keep in mind the different ratio in the 5 speed compared to the automatics...
1st- 3.90
2nd- 2.25
3rd- 1.46
4th- 1.00
5th- 0.80
Compared to an AOD, for example:
2.40
1.47
1.00
0.67
Check the axle code on the door jamb, or crawl under the truck and read the tag on the rear axle. 3 08 would signify an open 3.08. 3L55 would signify a limited slip 3.55
I would think 3.55's would be enough to move most loads. Keeping the tire size near stock should keep some too.
^ I hear ya about the clutch. The deep 1st gear should help in that regard.
3.73's should work well, but personally I wouldn't swap out 3.55's for 3.73's. The slight increase in grunt wouldn't be worth the cost of the swap or the extra crusing RPM's to me.
94MustangGT, what do you think of 3.73's for the 5 speed?
The reason I also suggest lower gears with the manual transmission trucks is to help save the clutch.
3.73's are great hot rod gears for a street car. You get more off the line but don't loose much gas mileage and top end. In my opinion 3.73's are the best all around gear ratio unless you have a vehicle dedicated to towing like I do, for towing my travel trailer then I would say 4.10's.
So I have a 95 with the 300I6/mazda 5 speed combo. Anyone know what the stock gear ratio is in that, or how to identify it.
There is no "stock" gear ratio these trucks had a variety of gear options, look at the axle code on your drivers door pillar and then find it in this chart.. Ford Axle Code Chart .: Articles
For a truck with stock sized tires or close, an overdrive transmission, and the 300 I6, 3.55 gears will provide a good balance of pulling power and fuel milage, and yes you have to change the pinion gear when swapping ratios, the ring and pinion are a matched pair.
I agree with you guys that he shouldn't go lower than 3.73 and I agree he shouldn't bother with a swap to 3.73 if he has 3.55.. However, if this truck is the OP's dedicated towing rig, I think he should go the 4.10 route. Easier on the drive train and will help him get moving around town. Unloaded he will even see a fuel mileage increase around the backroads.
Now if this truck is just an occasional tow rig then I'm going with what everyone else is saying: Stock size tires and 3.55.
I agree with you guys that he shouldn't go lower than 3.73 and I agree he shouldn't bother with a swap to 3.73 if he has 3.55.. However, if this truck is the OP's dedicated towing rig, I think he should go the 4.10 route. Easier on the drive train and will help him get moving around town. Unloaded he will even see a fuel mileage increase around the backroads.
Now if this truck is just an occasional tow rig then I'm going with what everyone else is saying: Stock size tires and 3.55.
Totally agree....You can't beat 4.10's if hauling is the primary work that you do with the truck. On top of being better for your drivetrain, you motor with last longer due to the reduced stress being put on it and the higher rpms it will run.
Totally agree....You can't beat 4.10's if hauling is the primary work that you do with the truck. On top of being better for your drivetrain, you motor with last longer due to the reduced stress being put on it and the higher rpms it will run.
Where did you come from? Welcome to the forums! I'll check out your truck.
The only thing is the higher RPM's are probably not good for engine life, BUT on the other side of the coin the engine is not being forced to work as hard. I would say higher RPM's on the highway are better than working the engine to death to get a load moving.
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