Hello all,

Here is the background on my problem. When I bought the truck used, the air was not cycling correctly and I assumed it was the gap problem. Shortly thereafter, it quit working all together. I had a friend look at it and based on some dye that he saw, he said it needed a new o-ring on the accumulator and that all of the freon had come out.

I got a new accumulator and o-rings for those 3 spots (2 connectors and low pressure switch). Put it all in and had the auto craft shop on Ft. Meade charge the system. They have the machine that pulls the vacuum. He didn't however let it sit like I have seen suggested. He then charged the system and sent me on my way. It lasted about 2 days and then I found dye under the hood at the accumulator joints. While it was working I did notice ice on the accumulator pipes. The gentleman at the craft shop said it was icing because the low pressure switch was bad?

I also found out that you are supposed to put oil on the o-rings before installing which I did not do.

So the condensor is new, the accumulator is new, the wiring is suspect (there are some splices where people have tried to rig things in the past I think). I guess I'm looking for someone who really knows what they are doing to just tell me what to do here. I'm not opposed to spending some money to make it right, I'm just getting mixed feedback on what is right.

Any help is appreciated.

Jason

 

Does your compressor still cycle? maybe a bad clutch.
Also, when you did the accumulator, did you replace the oriface tube? if so, was it clogged?

 

Compressor doesn't cycle. System is empty. I didn't replace orifice tube, I wasn't aware of it.
Jason

 

Anyone else point me in the right direction?

Jason

 

If your compressor isnt cycling, I would assume either and airgap issue with the clutch, the clutch itself, a loose connection at either the clutch or the pressure switch, or possibly a compressor.
my guess is one of the first two. Here is a recent thread that will help:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...uit-today.html
if this doesnt work, let me know, replaced the compressor, accumulator and oriface on mine last year for about $300 and a couple hours work. Hopefully you can avoid that though.

 

The compressor isn't cycling right now because the system is empty. Having just replace the condensor and accumulator and everything leaking, what is my next step? Did the o-rings just leak and I need to do it all over again? I just don't want to waste any more money.

My gut is telling me to replace the orifice tube and o-rings between the evaporator, accumulator and compressor. I'm just wondering if something is causing it to spring these leaks with too much pressure or something. I'm completely ignorant on how these things work. Should I go ahead and replace the low and high pressure switches?

Can someone tell me where the wires should be running? There are a couple of wires spliced together and I want to make sure they are going to the right places.

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, I just don't want to fill it again and it all just blow out in 2 days. I'm trying not to burn a hole in the ozone above Baltimore. If someone knows of a reputable shop, I'm not opposed to taking it to someone either. I just prefer to use the auto craft shop when possible.

Jason

 

Leaky o-rings should be determined by pulling a vacuum, not pressure, and letting it sit for a couple of hours with the gauges on. If you lose vacuum, you have a leak, and will know to continue looking for it without eating our communal ozone.

What year is the truck?

If you have wiring problems, it's helpful to describe which connectors they are at, along with the wire colors.

Pop

 

Pop has you going in the right direction.
Best to determine if you have a leak and where.
Possibly a seal, you might also check the evaporator and make sure there is not a crack or a rock stuck in it somewhere causing a leak.

I would also go ahead and replace the oriface while the system is discharged.
Its a cheap part, less than $5, and very easy to replace.
If you look at the line going into the firewall near your accumulator (cant remember which one right now), you will see a black plastic clamp on the hose, pull off the clamp and use a quick release tool (also very inexpensive at your parts house) to disconnect the line.
Once disconnected take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the oriface out. It will be in the tube still attached to the firewall.
Make sure to note the direction of the oriface and place the new one back in the same direction.

 

Thank you all. I will get some o-rings, orifice, and take note of the wiring position and colors and get back with you.

 

oh. It is a 1999.5 truck.