Manifold Stud Failure
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New User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Indianapolis Area
Manifold Stud Failure
I noticed that I have 4 studs, two on the each side on the same cylinder (second from the rear) that have broken off. I know that I need to replace them, but how urgent is it. The project look like it is in the almost hard box, and I'm afraid that if I start the process I might break of more and have to then work with trying to remove more broken studs from the block. That's in the HARD box.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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join the club. ya the factory studs suck!! its potentially a long process to replace also. i had 7 broken between left and right and broke 3 more trying to get rest out. its a sucky job but once its done and you put quality products back in its worth it.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 246
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From: Westerville, Ohio
I noticed that I have 4 studs, two on the each side on the same cylinder (second from the rear) that have broken off. I know that I need to replace them, but how urgent is it. The project look like it is in the almost hard box, and I'm afraid that if I start the process I might break of more and have to then work with trying to remove more broken studs from the block. That's in the HARD box.
To get the studs out, you are probably going to need a right-angle drill. Soak the studs with PB Blaster for days if possible. For the extraction, I used the Grab-It #2 extractor tool from Lowe's during my header install. Worked great. If you use it, drill a pilot hole first even though the directions don't call for it. Use a cobalt bit, low speed on the drill with a good bit of pressure and keep the bit lubricated with motor oil or the like.
A Titan stud extractor found on eBay will also work if they're not broken too close to or in the head.
Stew
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
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From: SE MI
I just started on this project this afternoon. It is definitely not for the faint of heart. Fortunately I don't really need the vehicle until late July, to pull my camper. Do not start this on Saturday morning and think you will drive the truck to work on Monday unless you are VERY patient(and lucky).
Do a search in this forum. You will find some good info.
Do a search in this forum. You will find some good info.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 619
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From: Steeler Country
Search for topic. Lots of good info. I spent 12 hours one day and 8 the next in a well tooled shop to do my V10. Some will come right out, some need drillled. Some will break free and leave just the stud. Lots of techniques and tools to do the job are out there. Go through the wheel well for some, underneath for others...
Common problem.
Common problem.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
I had the two worst studs break, the lower ones all the way in the rear. Did not need a right angle drill, just had to jack the engine up as far as it can go after disconnecting the motor mounts. Still, not fun.
The "root cause" is the nuts rust and stick themselves to the manifold. The manifold heats up and expands, and cools off and contracts, dragging the nuts with it. This fatigues the stainless-steel studs.
Somewhere between normal fatigue of stainless, and possibly a faulty heat-treatment after the "shoulder" of the stud is formed between the threaded sections, they break.
I'd first blame the extra-long 5-cylinder exhaust manifold of the V10, but it happens on the V8s too... so...
The "root cause" is the nuts rust and stick themselves to the manifold. The manifold heats up and expands, and cools off and contracts, dragging the nuts with it. This fatigues the stainless-steel studs.
Somewhere between normal fatigue of stainless, and possibly a faulty heat-treatment after the "shoulder" of the stud is formed between the threaded sections, they break.
I'd first blame the extra-long 5-cylinder exhaust manifold of the V10, but it happens on the V8s too... so...
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 181
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From: Dryden ON.
Yes the longer you leave it the worse the job could potentialy become! I had 3 break off flush with the head not fun.
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From: Burnsville, MN
Whoa. Its my understanding that Ford switched to stainless in 2005 MY. Are you guys saying there's still a stud problem? I've only seen one post so far for failing stainless studs in 2005+ engines...........
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Indianapolis Area
2001 F250 Crew V-10
This is a 2001 F-250 Crew 4X4 V-10. I've taken off the wheels, removed the fender skirts, and sprayed the studs with PB Blaster two days in a row. But, we've been having rain almost every day, and without a garage, it need to dry out a little before I can plant myself on the gravel for several hours. Maybe this weekend...I hope!
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
The nuts themselves are not, and rust, and stick to the manifold. The manifold expands and contracts, fatigues the studs, and they break. Some of the studs seemed to have a bad heat-treating where they formed somewhat of a shoulder between the threaded portions of the stud and they break there, usually. Once in a while, they break in the threaded portion below the head surface, and I had two of them do that.
I've heard that Ford's studs now include copper-plated nuts. I assume that's to keep the "sticktion" from happening between the nuts and the manifolds, so the nuts slide against the manifold.
If you look at a stock manifold, some of the holes are pretty big in diameter, or even oblong, which is obviously so that the manifold can expand and contract.
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