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Well, I got to take my truck on a short trip this weekend for the first time since installing the injectors. I was pulling my boat through some small hills most of the way, and definately could feel the pedal wasnt as heavy I would say as it normally was. If I wasnt careful, shortly after leaving a red light I was speeding. It definately blows LOTS of black smoke now, and my EGT's reached just over 1200 on some hills, but I have a turbo in mind for that.
The real story was my MPG. Normally, pulling my boat, I get 9-11. On flat, straight highways at 60. I was doing 65-70, in the hills and curves, and got 17.46 MPG. I was doing the calculations, and when that came up, I HAD to do it again. Surely I messed up. Nope. I gained 6-7 MPG just from the injectors and fuel pump. That is also with and 8" lift and 37's.
It sounds dumb, but 1700 for 180mm injectors from RCD and 700 for an Air Dog 2 seems worth it to me for the outcome I got. Now I just need some overtime so I can buy a 66mm from RCD.
I just thought you guys would like to hear how it went. Thanks for every one of you guys help. I really appreciate it, and if I didnt have FTE, then I know I would have had to taken the Tahoe this weekend instead of my truck.
Last edited by jwheatley20; Jun 13, 2010 at 11:23 AM.
Reason: Info
Wow, that's impressive. I would be interested to find out what your empty mileage is. Just doesn't make sense...Bigger injectors=better mileage. Crazy.
If you are going by the overhead lie-o-meter then you're going to be severly disappointed when you hand calculate it. The lie-o-meter calculates the "size" of the injection event. It knows how much fuel a stock injector can squirt every time it fires and for how long. Since your injectors are bigger it is still basing it's calculations off of the smaller injectors and your actual fuel mileage will probably be less.
Would it be lower rpms or you really needed new injectors? I get 14-15 in town and 16-18 hwy (empty or some crap in bed) with two injectors that need replaced all stock.
66mm is going to be too big for 180 injectors. Your aren't going to be flowing enough fuel unless you really work those injectors overtime.
I also don't know what gears you are running, but you might want to think about 4.30s if you don't have something that low already. That will also help the lag that you will have with a 66mm turbo and only 180 injectors. There will be "dead spots" in there for sure.
What mm turbo would you recommend? I was just going off of RCD website. They have a street 66mm turbo that they recommend for 180mm injectors. Should I go down to 64mm? I really only street race. I tow a boat and a bronco everynow and then. So I wanted to keep moderate towing in mind.
Also, I planned on gears until I saw the $1200 per axle price tag. I figured for $2400, I would save a little longer, then buy the ATS tranny. Then my injector problem occured and there went my plans lol. But I do plan on 4.10s, because I plan on going down to a 4" lift with 35's.
And the trip was a short maybe 200 mile trip. The tank was filled before I left, I didnt allow foam to go down, I was in a hurry. And I only used a 1/4 tank before I topped off when I got back. So its not ideal for a precise calculation. But none-the less. It shows some insight that they did help my fuel mileage. And hurt my EGTs lol
What mm turbo would you recommend? I was just going off of RCD website. They have a street 66mm turbo that they recommend for 180mm injectors. Should I go down to 64mm? I really only street race. I tow a boat and a bronco everynow and then. So I wanted to keep moderate towing in mind.
64mm would be the precise one that I would recommend. It's the one that I use for towing ~16k worth of horseflesh and that carge is more sensitive to the drive then your boat and/or bronco would be.
Just be sure to get a handle on your tuning. Bigger turbos can have "dead spots" in them if the tuning isn't just so-so. Be sure to try out the tune hauling around town in all situations that you can simulate before you go on a long road trip.
I would like to tow 16k or better. And still be able to race. Sled pulling seems appealing. Even though I dont know the first thing about it. So with a 64mm, my current setup with some extensive tuning will not create astronomical EGTs?
Also, I planned on gears until I saw the $1200 per axle price tag. I figured for $2400, I would save a little longer, then buy the ATS tranny. Then my injector problem occured and there went my plans lol. But I do plan on 4.10s, because I plan on going down to a 4" lift with 35's.
PLEASE don't waste your money on the ATS tranny. You might as well burn it or give it to one of us to use on a better project. I have an inside source from Diesel Power Challenge that the ATS truck was a total POS and they couldn't keep a tranny in it. Eyewitness as a matter of fact. Either get BTS, Suncoast, or NADP to do your transmission. At least you'll have something reliable.
Also, Tex has a fixed vane turbo--he isn't running a VGT, so it's a totally different thing and he's had great success with it. I'm not sure what RCD has. I'm NEVER going to their website--long story. Much more reliable vendors out there IMHO.
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