Hi I'm trying to install JBA Headers on my 96 Bronco 351W 5.8L and have run into trouble on the passenger side. The #1 problem being the EGR tube. the only wrench I have that will fit is a Cresent adjustable and that is way too big to be of any use. Can I disconnect the EGR tube at the top and then unbolt the manifold and bring the lot out and remove the EGR tube on a bench? If this is the case can I install the headers with the EGR tube connected to them?
#2 do I need to remove any other equipment to make the job easier? I am open to any help or suggestions you are willing to give me.
At the moment I have headers on the drivers side and stock manifold on the passengers side will driving it as it is cause any problems. My guess is no but 'Hey you never know'
I'm sure one or two of you have done this job, one person I spoke to said keep bending the EGR tube till it snaps off but getting a new one is difficult and expensive.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Alan.

 

No don't follow this neanderthal's advice, remove the manifold with the tube attached and take it in on a bench where you can work on it. I had to do something similar last year when I swapped motors and installed headers, the tube was seized on the valve but I managed to get them apart by clamping it in a vise, applying some lubricant and heat and working it loose.

 

You can trust whatever Mr. Paul says.

 

I recomend some locking header bolts. I dont understand why the stock bolts work fine in stock manifolds, but they get loose in headers pretty quick.

 

Do what he says. If I remember correctly, my EGR broke but I finished getting off the remainder after I removed the manifold. Buying the replacement wasn't fun. I remember taking the front wheels off just to have more room to get at stuff. But that was my only vehicle then so I had to be quick, you may have more time.

Don't be afraid to invest in some quality header gaskets.

 

your 96 shouldnt have an egr correct? but follow conanski's advice.

 

Unfortunately there is a crack in the weld on one of the small stainless steel pipes attached to the L shaped pipe connecting the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve. It's the top most pipe the one above a concertina like contraption (expansion device?). I took it to someone but he said as it is so small he may just burn through the tube when trying to weld it. I've been trying to find a real part # for it but all I can find is 9D477 which seems to cover more than one configuration, I need one for a 96 Bronco EB 5.8L 351W and it may be the Califonia legal version.

I managed to get the passenger side manifold off and the new headers on without removing anything, just the plug leads, I didn't have to remove the EGR tube till I had the manifold on the bench. The problem came putting it back together. When I tried to put in the last bolt on the headers, I couldn't reach far enough back into the engine compartment to start the bolt, it felt like it might be going in crossthreaded so after calling JBA I took the headers out again and opened the hole with a file. Even when this was done, after 4 trial fits I had to file a point on the bolt to get it to enter the block. I didn't want to put a wrench on it incase it was crossthreaded so I ended up taking out the fender apron and the transmission dip stick tube. With this lot removed I was able to make some headway but in order to tighten the reluctant bolt I had to saw a wrench in half because anything I had would not fit in the confined space.

The next job I'm looking at is putting in a catback Gibson exhaust. I tried to take the bolts off the cat/muffler flange and they are so rusted it's impossible to tell their size. I took a brand new cold chisel to them and after a couple of minutes the chisel was completely useless, the point was folded over and this is a made in America tool. My wife suggested when I get the EGR tube back (if he can weld it) to put it all back together and take it to a mechanic and ask him to put the Gibon in, sad to say I think she's right (shh don't let her hear that). The mechanic has the magic smoke wrench which I don't.

It all looked like a straitforward job till I started it, now I think I should have waited till the engine came out, which brings me to another question.


Can anyone living on Long Island recommend a body shop that would be willing to strip the Bronco down to the chassis so it can be powder coated and the body work restored. I asked around and most shops say it takes too long and takes up too much room. I've found one place but am still waiting for a quote,2 weeks now.

Writing this could be theraputic, I'm begining to feel better already. Thanks for your help and thanks for listening.
Alan.

 

Alan.cassidy, does you wife know you?

If yes, then follow her advise and get a mechanic to work on your bronco.

I haven't read as much nonsense in a long time.

 

Then you've got to read the next instalment, you'll be thrilled but for everyone else there is no next instalment, I managed to finish the job as useless as I am, it's back on the road completed but I'm sure I can dredge something up for g_k50 and maybe reach his expectations.

 

Alan, glad to hear the Bronco is back on the road. The only way you learn is to jump in there and do it, unless you want to spend a lot of money having someone else do it. Thats money you could be using for your next upgrade. I know how hard it is to tighten the back headers bolts, and you will have to tighten them often for the first couple wks. Once the bolts stay tight, I still check them about once a month, you don't want the bolts to loosen up and blow a header gasket and have to do it again. I cut a hole in the inner finders to get to the bolts, it works great, I with I would have done it yrs. ago. Kenny

 

I went out and bought 'Stage 8' locking header bolts today which I think will cure the problem. I also came up with a plan to get a torque wrench on all the bolts. you can use an Allen key on the stage 8 bolts so I found an old socket (same drive as torque wrench but any size socket) and drilled a hole through it from one side to the other right where the nut would fit. The allen key I want to use is 3/16 so to get a tight fit I used a 13/64 drill bit now I can put the long side of an Allen key through the holes put the short end into the header bolt and torque it up, so now I can torque the bolts that are hidden by the pipes. It works on the same principle as a crows foot wrench, I havent yet tried it but I'm sure it will work.

 

I got stage 8 bolts. I didnt worry about torque. Made them as tight as I could get them and put the locks on. I have them only on the drivers side. (that's the side I was having leaks from) I remember that back bolt on the pax side.

 

what did you do for the o2 sensors? ive looked into putting some on but my 02 sensors are right on the headers.

 

The O2 sensors on my 96 are on the exhaust down pipe so I was OK. Look for Headers with O2 bungs in the right place otherwise you will have to drill a hole and weld the bungs in place. If you are thinking of ceramic headers then for that price I would only get the ones with the O2 bungs in the right place as I'm sure welding ceramic headers is difficult and expensive.

Hope this helps.

 

When I pulled my stuff apart a few weeks ago, I sprayed some pb blaster on the egr the night before, then I got a crescent wrench on it (one that fits, there like 7.00 at a hardware store) then once I got it to budge slightly im talking like .010 of an inch I turned it back tight. Then back loose and if you keep doing this over and over it brakes the rust apart in the threads, and you can eventually go more and more till its loose. From my expierence with rust and stuck bolts this is a much better way then to just keep loosening it cause they usually snap. ( i know im a little late, but i thought id throw it in for fun)