I bet it ran.

It looks like you got a REALLY expensive OEM wiring harness with your truck, as if somebody took on the job before they get rid of it. That's a bonus (old wiring can have SO many issues). Unfortunately there's a major (what's the opposite of a bonus? Can't think right now)--That nice new wiring isn't original, so is it in the right place or not? If a guy spent the kind of money necessary to get that type of harness, took the time to wire some or all of it in (sounds like some) and then sold it off odds are good he/she was frustrated with it and probably didn't have it right.

Get Julie's diagrams and study them ALMOST as much as your Bible. Then make sure your wiring goes where it's supposed to. I haven't seen Julie's diagrams (save for the ones she's put in this thread) but they should be broken down into circuits, so for getting your engine running you will have one key diagram (ign/charging) to study and get right. Then you can move on. Do make sure you get a battery while you get your components tested (and yeah, most places test that stuff for free).

P.S.>>> Julie, are you aware you're in a thread with TWO pastors? Are you comfortable with this?

 

You guys are pretty sure this is a newer wiring harness eh? Hmmn, could be, there is a lot of newer electrical tape holding it together (kind of like wiring loom) on the longer stretches, but the stuff under the dash looks pretty dusty/old. I dunno, what I do know is that he tried hard to get it going about 4yrs ago. That's when he bought all the new parts, including the battery (the holes on top are punched out for 2006) but it's bowed up near the Pos. terminal and it won't hold a charge overnight, even disconnected from the truck, and no, it's not sitting on concrete either.

Well, it sounds like I need to reign myself back in until I can get a correct battery for the truck and get the wiring back in order. Oh well, there's probably another hour or two of bodywork that needs to be done in the meantime
This truck project comes out of my personal money out of the family budget, no family money involved so that slows things down a lot with a wife and two kids, but half the point of getting the truck was to be a father-son project and as long as i'm working on it with him I don't mind it taking a little longer

By the way, how expensive are newer wiring harnesses and where would you even buy one?

 

Expense depends upon what you want. The wires in your pics look like Concours Correct wires that are brand stinking new (they just look too clean and purdy). A full harness to match the original spec for spec is several hundred dollars and only available through specialty dealers (that is dealers the specialize in concours correct parts for classic autos--AKA NOT NAPA). A full harness to get the job done can run as cheap as $125...but don't expect more than fuses and a lot of wires. The cheap ones that are good quality have plenty going for them, but are pretty poor on the directions/guidance end of things. There are TONS of threads on FTE about which harness is best, pro's and con's, etc. If you find yourself bored with nothing to do, search the threads for all the details.

If those pretty wires in your pics don't have more friends to fill out the rest of the truck (which would be weird) then you can google wiring harnesses and get a pretty good spectrum of possiblities, prices etc.

James

 

Now you've got me thinking. There's a bunch of old wires hooked up to the gauges, but they're not in the truck, I think there's probably enough wires coming from the harness that's in the truck to hook up to the old gauges. I hadn't considered that until now, I just assumed that both sets of wires would make the harness complete, although I did think that was an awful lot of wires for a '51 anything.

Well, that's a day brightener, i've seen wiring harnesses for sale before and been shocked by the price. Considering I bought this truck for $400 and it also came with a new regulator, water pump, hoses, light switch, various ***** and small parts, i'd say I got one sweet deal. I'd also agree with your previous statement, he must have been super frustrated with this thing to let it go for that.

 

I wouldn't waste time thinking too much. I'll bet ya $50 we end up disconnecting it all and re install/route it to the right places - based on what you've told us so far and the pics. It'll be 1000 time easier and faster than trying to sort it out wire by wire. The drawings are on the way to you lvin4jc33 btw.

One of the biggest mistakes folks make when they restore or rewire is to duplicate the POs placement - not so hot!

 

It wouldn't surprise me if the wiring harness cost the PO $400. If what's been replaced is routed well you might be able to get by without taking it out, but be prepared to undo what he did in rewiring it so that you can make sure it's done right. Since you're going with an OEM harness, original engine, etc. you should be able to build off of Julie's diagrams connection to connection with no troubles.

Look up the Wiring 101 thread for some tips on rewiring (good education/chance to brush up even if you're familiar with doing it). Julie probably has a link to it, but I don't.

Keep us updated though.

James

P.S.>>>Julie, you and Bill sure do go at it.

 

Tee hee - yep, two stubborn crabby perfectionists.

The "Wiring 101" Thread Pastor James is talking about, I included on my e-mail to you but it's in MS Word/Document format. It's much cleaner and easier to read that way.

Wiring is simple - you just connect the dots - one wire at a time. But when it's all together, it's hard to figure out if all those dots are connected right. I'm sure we can re use the harness, which as the Pastor mentioned, looks like a pretty nice one. We just may have to disconnect it and start over re connecting the dots in the right places one wire at a time. Like I said that's a lot easier than trying to trace every wire.

 

Nothing better than hearing it run again for the first time. I had similar problems on my 54, unhooked everything but starter and ignition. Replaced cap, rotor, points, and spark plugs and wires. Found the wire from coil to points was shorting out against the ignition housing so replaced it. I got one of the cheap spark testers for $5 that hooks between the plug and plug wire so I knew for sure when I got spark. It runs great this way and I don't have the generator hooked up yet. That and gauges are next. Julie's information is invaluable. Us newbie's will all learn together, with the patience of the experts. Maybe someday I will move toward the expert side.

 

Tee hee hee, Have you checked your other thread yet?