Retractable Running Board problem
New User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I have fixed my deployable power running board. Here is how
Step 1. Remove the running board from truck, 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts unplug wiring.
Step 2. Remove motor cover. 2 small torque screws.
Step 3. Spray lubricant behind the circuit board to lubricate transmission.
Step 4. On rear of the hinge there is an 8mm bolt remove it and knock out aluminum wedge. Remember which way it comes out. That wedge is a keyway that makes the board move with the motor shaft.
Step 5. With the wedge removed, spray all the moving joints with lubricant and work the hinges up and down, until everything moves freely. Working the lubricant into all the joints.
Step 6. Install wedge back into place; install motor cover back on to motor. ( Make sure that the rear bearing is aligned to accept the motor shaft. you might have to wiggle it back and forth to seat the cover. Plug in wiring harness and try it out, then install it back on truck.
Very simple and easy to fix. It probably will take you less that 1 hour. I will post pictures this week when I do the other side. The side that I repaired deploys up and down twice as the other side now.
Front two nuts and one bolt
Rear two nuts and one bolt
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unplug wiring
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off truck
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lay something soft down so no scratches
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plastic sheild screws
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motor cover screws
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pull off motor cover
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spin shaft untill it stops, wedge bolt will be accessible
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remove wedge bolt
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pop out wedge from back side
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wedge
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this is motor shaft, note black square will make mark on wedge
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note mark on wedge for reintallation
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spray lubricant on all moving parts
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step on board and work up and down spraying lubricant in all joints untill moving freely
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spray lubricant in transmission
[IMG]
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spray electricial cleaner inside motor cover
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spray electricial cleaner on shaft
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[/IMG]
inspect that the brushes are still good
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[/IMG]
apply small amount of grease to back bearing in motor cover, use something plastic to apply grease.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
work bearing so it moves freely
[IMG]
[/IMG]
insert motor cover, you might have to wiggle it back and forth
[IMG]
[/IMG]
motor cover screwed in place
[IMG]
[/IMG]
insert wegde in place
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flip board over and insert wedge screw and tighten down
[IMG]
[/IMG]
install plastic sheild screws
[IMG]
[/IMG]
bring board back over to truck and plug in electric wiring and test board. reinstall all four nuts and two bolts securing board back to truck
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[/IMG]
deployed
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[/IMG]
board retracted, your all done saving 1600.00 bucks
Step 1. Remove the running board from truck, 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts unplug wiring.
Step 2. Remove motor cover. 2 small torque screws.
Step 3. Spray lubricant behind the circuit board to lubricate transmission.
Step 4. On rear of the hinge there is an 8mm bolt remove it and knock out aluminum wedge. Remember which way it comes out. That wedge is a keyway that makes the board move with the motor shaft.
Step 5. With the wedge removed, spray all the moving joints with lubricant and work the hinges up and down, until everything moves freely. Working the lubricant into all the joints.
Step 6. Install wedge back into place; install motor cover back on to motor. ( Make sure that the rear bearing is aligned to accept the motor shaft. you might have to wiggle it back and forth to seat the cover. Plug in wiring harness and try it out, then install it back on truck.
Very simple and easy to fix. It probably will take you less that 1 hour. I will post pictures this week when I do the other side. The side that I repaired deploys up and down twice as the other side now.
Front two nuts and one bolt
Rear two nuts and one bolt
[IMG]
unplug wiring
[IMG]
off truck
[IMG]
lay something soft down so no scratches
[IMG]
plastic sheild screws
[IMG]
motor cover screws
[IMG]
pull off motor cover
[IMG]
spin shaft untill it stops, wedge bolt will be accessible
[IMG]
remove wedge bolt
[IMG]
pop out wedge from back side
[IMG]
wedge
[IMG]
this is motor shaft, note black square will make mark on wedge
[IMG]
note mark on wedge for reintallation
[IMG]
spray lubricant on all moving parts
[IMG]
step on board and work up and down spraying lubricant in all joints untill moving freely
[IMG]
spray lubricant in transmission
[IMG]
spray electricial cleaner inside motor cover
[IMG]
spray electricial cleaner on shaft
[IMG]
inspect that the brushes are still good
[IMG]
apply small amount of grease to back bearing in motor cover, use something plastic to apply grease.
[IMG]
work bearing so it moves freely
[IMG]
insert motor cover, you might have to wiggle it back and forth
[IMG]
motor cover screwed in place
[IMG]
insert wegde in place
[IMG]
flip board over and insert wedge screw and tighten down
[IMG]
install plastic sheild screws
[IMG]
bring board back over to truck and plug in electric wiring and test board. reinstall all four nuts and two bolts securing board back to truck
[IMG]
deployed
[IMG]
board retracted, your all done saving 1600.00 bucks
New User
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
HI Bob-
I'm curious as to what I would need to replace if the retractable running board on my drivers side of my 2013 F-150 Limited is delayed 15 seconds. This happened when I unplugged the battery to change batteries. Now the passenger side works like normal, but the drivers side is delayed. I think the problem is with the module, but not sure where that is or what to replace. Any ideas??
Thanks for the response.
I'm curious as to what I would need to replace if the retractable running board on my drivers side of my 2013 F-150 Limited is delayed 15 seconds. This happened when I unplugged the battery to change batteries. Now the passenger side works like normal, but the drivers side is delayed. I think the problem is with the module, but not sure where that is or what to replace. Any ideas??
Thanks for the response.
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
How to replace running board motor??
I have a 2010 Expedition EL Limited. I know I should be posting in the 2007 and up thread, but this thread describes exactly the issue I am having. I have the same problem everyone has posted on this string. Running board goes down, but won't retract back up without help. I followed along with the picture instructions to remove the running board (fantastic job btw to the person who did that). The running board motor is shot, so I know that is my issue with the running board not retracting as it used to.
My problem now tho is that I can't figure out how to remove the motor from the hinge. I already have the replacement motor in my possession. Not the full $800+ Dorman motor assembly with the hinge already attached. I have just the motor, which was only $250 from this site> Running Board Motor
I just can't physically dislodge the old motor from the hinge. I have removed all of the bolts but the shaft running through the hinges just doesn't seem like it wants to budge.
Any insight? Anyone else have the same issue?
Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
My problem now tho is that I can't figure out how to remove the motor from the hinge. I already have the replacement motor in my possession. Not the full $800+ Dorman motor assembly with the hinge already attached. I have just the motor, which was only $250 from this site> Running Board Motor
I just can't physically dislodge the old motor from the hinge. I have removed all of the bolts but the shaft running through the hinges just doesn't seem like it wants to budge.
Any insight? Anyone else have the same issue?
Thanks in advance for any help or advice.
New User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
running board moter removel
You didn't say if you removed the wedge, after removing all bolts and the wedge spray it with penetrating oil. Then you need to use a hammer and a punch to to drive the shaft out of the hinge.
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Now I'm on the look out for a hinge assembly that i can get from a junk yard.
Thanks for the response.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 43
From: Tooele, UT
So i was having problems with my running boards. Got the driver side off and tried spinning the armature to extend it and that thing is locked up solid. The armature will rock back and forth but the gear box won't budge. Anyone know how I can break them loose? I can't tell if it's in the gear box or the hinges. Need to some how separate them but the problem is the hinge is in the retracted position so I can't get at the wedge lock on the back and I can't get at bolts for the motor.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,862
Likes: 43
From: Tooele, UT
no I didnt figure it out. Our problem was on an '08 escalade ESV but looking through the pictures on here they are identical as the expys with the exception of the board itself. Never did figure out how to remove the motor so we took the next logical step and traded the hunk of junk in on a '16 limited expy with fixed running boards. Lol with all the salt used on the roads here in northern Utah I didnt wanna have to worry about that problem again.
New User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Just replaced ds rear bracket. The aluminum casting snapped when I stepped on the rb. Once off and comparing it to the new one, it is clear that corrosion is a major problem. Ford uses dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum) in this poor design which presents a major problem. I had to swap out one of the pins from the old for the new in order to mount the torsion bar (which doesn't appear to do anything other than support the rear end of the rb once the bracket cracks apart) and the corrosion on the aluminum right at the pin joints was considerable. Dealer wanted 2K+ for new assembly, which is the whole rb. Was able to find just the rear bracket on eBay for 250. After seeing the design of the deployable rb close up, I will not get them again. Slick idea, but poorly engineered in this case.
New User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
My problem for my running boards was the sensor inside the door. I had to remount it where it came a loose from. Took me a minute to figure out where it was. You have to take off the door panel & look at the rear section of the door. Be careful with the door lock level and the door latch.