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Retractable Running Board problem

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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:21 PM
  #61  
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04 Navi

Hello I have a 04 Navi with a running board problem. The driver one does not go in and it sounds like it try to go in but it dosent. And the pasanger side dose not come out at all.. Were would I find the moter? To see if it is also corrosion as well? Any info would help

Thanks

Daniel


Originally Posted by dalesatter
I finally found the problem! Corrosion had collected in the wire connector that plugs into the electric motor assembly down underneath the truck.

I had to pull the motor assembly to get to the wire connector, just 4 screws, and remove the plastic shield that protects the motor assembly. I sprayed some cleaner in the connector, and probably should have put some dielectric grease in also, but I used an electrical lubricant spray instead. Reassembled and it works like new.

One word of caution, the motor assembly is marked "Dispose of if Droped", so don't drop it.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 02:02 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Yomero
Hello I have a 04 Navi with a running board problem. The driver one does not go in and it sounds like it try to go in but it dosent. And the pasanger side dose not come out at all.. Were would I find the moter? To see if it is also corrosion as well? Any info would help
Did you start a page 1 of this topic? There is a lot of information and pictures.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 11:42 PM
  #63  
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I did not but I already looked at them all.. thanks



Originally Posted by alloro
Did you start a page 1 of this topic? There is a lot of information and pictures.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 04:43 PM
  #64  
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power running boards

I just had to replace the battery on my 2012 F150. When the battery was replaced the running boards stopped working. They worked before until the power connection was removed. Is it a programming issue or a fuse somewhere?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 04:46 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by ptownguy7
I just had to replace the battery on my 2012 F150. When the battery was replaced the running boards stopped working. They worked before until the power connection was removed. Is it a programming issue or a fuse somewhere?
I doubt it's a fuse, I would try to turn the system back on through the driver's information controls.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ptownguy7
I just had to replace the battery on my 2012 F150.
You'll want to ask this in the 2009-2014 F-150 forum here: 2009 - 2014 F150 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 09:29 PM
  #67  
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I followed the instructions for cleaning the power running boards but when I put the drivers side back together which was the side I was having problems with works opposite as which it should. When the door is open the running board goes up. When the door is closed the running board goes down. Any idea what may be going on.
Thanks
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 09:54 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Bpeters
but when I put the drivers side back together which was the side I was having problems with works opposite as which it should.
First verify that the motor connector is plugged in the right way. Usually there's only one way, but if it's an old brittle connector then the keyway could've broke off. My second suggestion is that when you reassembled the motor housing onto the motor armature you installed it 180 degrees off.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 05:38 PM
  #69  
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Thanks alloro. Turning the motor housing was the problem.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 11:44 AM
  #70  
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Hey guys,
I've done everything that you guys have suggested to drivers side running board to work. I had it working for a couple months and not its acting up again. When I had it apart I did notice the magnets in the motors housing had some cracks in them. Does anyone know if this would cause the mayor to keep getting stuck? I can hear the motor trying to go. If I open/close the door several times I can usually get the running board moving again but lately its been stuck down.
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:29 PM
  #71  
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Convert!

Do what I eventually did:
Convert to fixed running boards from either a Navigator or Expediton.
- You save a bunch of weight
- IF you mix years/models - there will be some adjustments in the trim but in the end, it looks fin
- If you can get same year/model - it is a bolt on
- Existing holds underneath make it somewhat straightforward
 
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 10:16 AM
  #72  
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Lightbulb Great tutorial....BUT!

Originally Posted by vipersinu2
I have fixed my deployable power running board. Here is how

Step 1. Remove the running board from truck, 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts unplug wiring.

Step 2. Remove motor cover. 2 small torque screws.

Step 3. Spray lubricant behind the circuit board to lubricate transmission.

Step 4. On rear of the hinge there is an 8mm bolt remove it and knock out aluminum wedge. Remember which way it comes out. That wedge is a keyway that makes the board move with the motor shaft.

Step 5. With the wedge removed, spray all the moving joints with lubricant and work the hinges up and down, until everything moves freely. Working the lubricant into all the joints.

Step 6. Install wedge back into place; install motor cover back on to motor. ( Make sure that the rear bearing is aligned to accept the motor shaft. you might have to wiggle it back and forth to seat the cover. Plug in wiring harness and try it out, then install it back on truck.

Very simple and easy to fix. It probably will take you less that 1 hour. I will post pictures this week when I do the other side. The side that I repaired deploys up and down twice as the other side now.


Front two nuts and one bolt


Rear two nuts and one bolt

[IMG][/IMG]
unplug wiring

[IMG][/IMG]
off truck

[IMG][/IMG]
lay something soft down so no scratches

[IMG][/IMG]
plastic sheild screws

[IMG][/IMG]
motor cover screws

[IMG][/IMG]
pull off motor cover

[IMG][/IMG]
spin shaft untill it stops, wedge bolt will be accessible

[IMG][/IMG]
remove wedge bolt

[IMG][/IMG]
pop out wedge from back side

[IMG][/IMG]
wedge

[IMG][/IMG]
this is motor shaft, note black square will make mark on wedge

[IMG][/IMG]
note mark on wedge for reintallation

[IMG][/IMG]
spray lubricant on all moving parts

[IMG][/IMG]
step on board and work up and down spraying lubricant in all joints untill moving freely

[IMG][/IMG]
spray lubricant in transmission

[IMG][/IMG]
spray electricial cleaner inside motor cover

[IMG][/IMG]
spray electricial cleaner on shaft

[IMG][/IMG]
inspect that the brushes are still good

[IMG][/IMG]
apply small amount of grease to back bearing in motor cover, use something plastic to apply grease.

[IMG][/IMG]
work bearing so it moves freely

[IMG][/IMG]
insert motor cover, you might have to wiggle it back and forth

[IMG][/IMG]
motor cover screwed in place

[IMG][/IMG]
insert wegde in place

[IMG][/IMG]
flip board over and insert wedge screw and tighten down

[IMG][/IMG]
install plastic sheild screws

[IMG][/IMG]
bring board back over to truck and plug in electric wiring and test board. reinstall all four nuts and two bolts securing board back to truck

[IMG][/IMG]
deployed

[IMG][/IMG]
board retracted, your all done saving 1600.00 bucks
This is a very good tutorial on how to tackle this problem....BUT, as shown in your photos, your brackets are still pretty much intact with their original finish. However, when most of the black coating has long ago flaked off and left exposed cast alloy parts, bolted to a steel subframe, corrosion immediately sets in from both exposure AND dissimilar metals contacting each other (galvanic corrosion) VERY BAD design. This corrosion QUICKLY undoes all the work shown in your tutorial, and, AGAIN, renders these ridiculously expensive units inoperative! There's got to be a way, of protecting the exposed metal AFTER all this work, to ensure that the repair lasts a reasonable amount of time......or, so one would think
 
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 11:23 PM
  #73  
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I just got a 06 that has the driver power RB missing with the passenger one intact but rubbing against lower body cladding. I think this will be the best solution for me. The replacement parts are horribly expensive.
Originally Posted by racerock
Do what I eventually did:
Convert to fixed running boards from either a Navigator or Expediton.
- You save a bunch of weight
- IF you mix years/models - there will be some adjustments in the trim but in the end, it looks fin
- If you can get same year/model - it is a bolt on
- Existing holds underneath make it somewhat straightforward
 
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 02:22 AM
  #74  
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The installation is too complex

Originally Posted by edwjr42
Hello,

You did a great job showing how to fix the problem, I followed the steps with no problems...except one (and it's a biggie). After putting it all back together the board works opposite from how it's supposed to: when the door is open, the board goes up...close the door and it goes down. I tried disassembling it, rotating the motor manually to the opposite position, reassembling etc...but it does the exact same thing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Now the installation have updated to OBD plug type, just plug into OBD interface of your car, it is very simple, no punching to your car, do damage to your car, it is perfect, you can go to yutunbe to know the detail installation step:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxt...l2A27Pq6Dm7rRg
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 01:38 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by dalesatter
Sometimes the driver side running board comes out automatically and sometimes it doesn't. This just recently started. It doesn't matter if I open the front or the back door. When it's not working it's not working.

I have read in other posts if it is just one door, that sometimes you just have to spray WD40 on the door switch but on my 04' Navi,there are no switches exposed and mine doesn't work with either door anyway.

I got underneath and found a wire coming down out of the floor connecting to the floor board mechanism. I cleaned the connection with spray electrical cleaner but it did not seem to help.

Anyone have any other ideas?

i have a 2012 Ford Expedition EL and my drivers side running board will always come down when my door is opened, but will not go up on its own unless I use my foot to guide it all the way. It will go halfway on its own and then come back down. I know it cannot be fully broken because when I start to drive away, it will go up on its own without my guidance. Why is it so touchy?!? Will the WD-40 work?
 
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