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Hard to say from here, but to me it sounds like the switches that tell the system the boards are out are not sending that signal. It could be dirty contacts or a broken wire.
Hard to say from here, but to me it sounds like the switches that tell the system the boards are out are not sending that signal. It could be dirty contacts or a broken wire.
By switches you mean those inside doors? If they would be broken, wouln't it show in message center 'door ajar' message?
I also suspect it might be because of when this board retracts it does no retract fully, it extends like one inch out and the board is trying to retract again. Does it make sense?
Just replaced ds rear bracket. The aluminum casting snapped when I stepped on the rb. Once off and comparing it to the new one, it is clear that corrosion is a major problem. Ford uses dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum) in this poor design which presents a major problem. I had to swap out one of the pins from the old for the new in order to mount the torsion bar (which doesn't appear to do anything other than support the rear end of the rb once the bracket cracks apart) and the corrosion on the aluminum right at the pin joints was considerable. Dealer wanted 2K+ for new assembly, which is the whole rb. Was able to find just the rear bracket on eBay for 250. After seeing the design of the deployable rb close up, I will not get them again. Slick idea, but poorly engineered in this case.
Just replaced ds rear bracket. The aluminum casting snapped when I stepped on the rb. Once off and comparing it to the new one, it is clear that corrosion is a major problem. Ford uses dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum) in this poor design which presents a major problem. I had to swap out one of the pins from the old for the new in order to mount the torsion bar (which doesn't appear to do anything other than support the rear end of the rb once the bracket cracks apart) and the corrosion on the aluminum right at the pin joints was considerable. Dealer wanted 2K+ for new assembly, which is the whole rb. Was able to find just the rear bracket on eBay for 250. After seeing the design of the deployable rb close up, I will not get them again. Slick idea, but poorly engineered in this case.
Exactly what I was thinking. Dissimilar metal corrosion was bad on mine as well. I just had to drive the pins out of the rear brackets (or rather drive the brackets off the rear pins) on both sides of my wifes Nav. I thought for sure I would brake one of those as hard as I was beating on them, but never did. Running boards themselves are about shot though. As much rusted metal that fell out of them they cant last to many more years. For 2k they can keep there new ones. I will just fabricate some out of angle or square tube metal if it comes to that, with the plastic cover over them no one will ever know.
Happy to say after getting them separated greased up and re installed they seem to be working great.
Just replaced ds rear bracket. The aluminum casting snapped when I stepped on the rb. Once off and comparing it to the new one, it is clear that corrosion is a major problem. Ford uses dissimilar metals (steel and aluminum) in this poor design which presents a major problem. I had to swap out one of the pins from the old for the new in order to mount the torsion bar (which doesn't appear to do anything other than support the rear end of the rb once the bracket cracks apart) and the corrosion on the aluminum right at the pin joints was considerable. Dealer wanted 2K+ for new assembly, which is the whole rb. Was able to find just the rear bracket on eBay for 250. After seeing the design of the deployable rb close up, I will not get them again. Slick idea, but poorly engineered in this case.
Do you have a company name where you found the new bracket? Both front brackets on my mountaineer have real bad corrosion on the aluminum with the DS having one full crack and the PS being in 3 pieces. I was able to get them welded and fixed at a local metal shop but would like to replace them at some point since I'm guessing they will break again. The previous owner had the boards set to Off and they became a cup for sand and salt in the winter.
Do you have a company name where you found the new bracket? Both front brackets on my mountaineer have real bad corrosion on the aluminum with the DS having one full crack and the PS being in 3 pieces. I was able to get them welded and fixed at a local metal shop but would like to replace them at some point since I'm guessing they will break again. The previous owner had the boards set to Off and they became a cup for sand and salt in the winter.
I found the rear bracket from snofish1 for $265. New oem rear on eBay for $439 and front bracket w/motor for a whopping $992. Search for deployable running board bracket and you will see. CL may be another source for NOS since the parts are discontinued from what the dealer said. You can't buy just the brackets from the dealer. They sell only the whole assembly. I had to press out one of the hinge pins on the replacement bracket and press in the one from the old bracket in order to mount the torsion rod. Also had to grind of the pop rivet that secured the torsion rod and used a section of drill rod (peeled over) when remounting. All 4 pivot joints were heavily corroded and would barely move which makes me wonder how hard the motor has to work. I lubed everything up real good and will keep on them going forward. Good luck.
Exactly what I was thinking. Dissimilar metal corrosion was bad on mine as well. I just had to drive the pins out of the rear brackets (or rather drive the brackets off the rear pins) on both sides of my wifes Nav. I thought for sure I would brake one of those as hard as I was beating on them, but never did. Running boards themselves are about shot though. As much rusted metal that fell out of them they cant last to many more years. For 2k they can keep there new ones. I will just fabricate some out of angle or square tube metal if it comes to that, with the plastic cover over them no one will ever know.
Happy to say after getting them separated greased up and re installed they seem to be working great.
Good to hear. One thought I had was if they break again I'm yanking them off and putting on fixed running boards. It won't look as nice but my wallet won't take such a hit
I was able to get the broken brackets cleaned and taken to a local welding show to get fixed. Once back, I had to finish cleaning them and take down a few high spots from the welds but they turned out good. I finished them with 4-5 coats of black rust-oleum paint. I have been spraying them with a little WD-40 every other day for about 2 weeks to start with and am back to once a week now (a can of that a year is a whole lot cheaper than new ones).
2008 Expedition Limited EL. The driver's side power deployable running board was not closing. The motor kept trying to close the board but it would never close. I brought it to the dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong, so they said they would have to replace it all for around $2000. I said 'no' to this and then they somehow disabled both running boards in the open position. When I look at the Setup message center I see the Running Board options, Auto, On, Off, but I'm not able to choose any of them, so I'm not sure how they were able to keep the boards open.
Anyway, I have now removed the driver's side board to clean and lubricate it.
Is there a way after fully lubricating all the moving parts to manually open and close the board without opening up or removing the motor?
I guess the easiest way to test the board is that I might have to go to the dealership to ask them how they have disabled them. Any ideas?
I have fixed my deployable power running board. Here is how
Step 1. Remove the running board from truck, 4 13mm nuts and 2 13mm bolts unplug wiring.
Step 2. Remove motor cover. 2 small torque screws.
Step 3. Spray lubricant behind the circuit board to lubricate transmission.
Step 4. On rear of the hinge there is an 8mm bolt remove it and knock out aluminum wedge. Remember which way it comes out. That wedge is a keyway that makes the board move with the motor shaft.
Step 5. With the wedge removed, spray all the moving joints with lubricant and work the hinges up and down, until everything moves freely. Working the lubricant into all the joints.
Step 6. Install wedge back into place; install motor cover back on to motor. ( Make sure that the rear bearing is aligned to accept the motor shaft. you might have to wiggle it back and forth to seat the cover. Plug in wiring harness and try it out, then install it back on truck.
Very simple and easy to fix. It probably will take you less that 1 hour. I will post pictures this week when I do the other side. The side that I repaired deploys up and down twice as the other side now.
Front two nuts and one bolt
Rear two nuts and one bolt
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unplug wiring
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off truck
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lay something soft down so no scratches
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plastic sheild screws
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motor cover screws
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pull off motor cover
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spin shaft untill it stops, wedge bolt will be accessible
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remove wedge bolt
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pop out wedge from back side
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wedge
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this is motor shaft, note black square will make mark on wedge
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note mark on wedge for reintallation
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spray lubricant on all moving parts
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step on board and work up and down spraying lubricant in all joints untill moving freely
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spray lubricant in transmission
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spray electricial cleaner inside motor cover
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spray electricial cleaner on shaft
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inspect that the brushes are still good
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apply small amount of grease to back bearing in motor cover, use something plastic to apply grease.
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work bearing so it moves freely
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insert motor cover, you might have to wiggle it back and forth
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motor cover screwed in place
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insert wegde in place
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flip board over and insert wedge screw and tighten down
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install plastic sheild screws
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bring board back over to truck and plug in electric wiring and test board. reinstall all four nuts and two bolts securing board back to truck
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deployed
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board retracted, your all done saving 1600.00 bucks
I removed the board from my 2010 Navigator. Then removed the cover to the electric motor. The motor will spin freely...does this mean the gears are stripped? Also, I'm unable to move the mechanical holding arm even after using penetrating spray and white grease. Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Without your post and pictures this job could not have been done. Bo
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