I'm hoping someone has a great idea cause I think a monkey must have welded them on when I wasn't looking.

First off these are BIG lug nuts, 1.5", and down in the duallys.

I put them on in October. I don't have an air wrench or anything, just by hand. Some how between then and now they've become impossible to get off.

I've tried heat. I've tried Wd-40. I've tried a FIVE FOOT cheater bar. All I've managed to do thus far is get nervous as I watch the socket extension twist like it shouldn't (its not a small one either)

Before I go welding up some giant wrench (it's on the duallys so they're in a bit), I was curious if anyone had any ideas that could save me the trouble.


Thanks

 

I know, I know, you just put them on in October so this is probably a dumb question, but I'll ask anyway. Are you sure that you're turning them the right way? I've never had the wheels off a big Ford of this vintage, but I know that on our '57 Chevy 6400, the nuts on one side of the truck are right hand thread and on the other side they're left hand.

 

That's not a dumb question at all.

Also, try squirting a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and ATF on them a few times and let it sit for a day or two - squirt a couple times.

 

bor beat me to it .... never in my life had a vehicle with right and left hand threads , and couldn't figure out why the hades i couldnt get the dain nuts off of one side of my 55 f350 .................... sheez .... did i ever fell stupid when my buddy norm come over and took 'em right off .......................

 

You are talking about the outer nuts, The hex nuts, right?
Drivers side is left hand thread, passengers side is normal right hand thread. Also, if any moisture wicked into the threads a bit of rust may have formed between the outer nuts and thimble (inner nut) threads.

For the rears, I have had to use a heavy 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar and a 6 foot piece of pipe to break things loose. I also have a manual impact wheel nut wrench that works well. After the initial 1/3 of a turn they are usually free. After you have the outer nuts off and the outer wheel off, the thimbles (inner nuts) (the ones with the square head) are not as difficult - I can use a 4 foot piece of pipe.

To keep moisture out when I put the wheels back on, after I have torqued the outer nuts I spray some black paint on the exposed threads and the faces of the nuts. It seems to work for me to make things easier to remove later on.

 

I forgot to add that I try to avoid extensions, as they will twist and limit the torque applied to the nut. If I have to use an extension I try to use a 3" long one or less (less length = less to twist) , and it is an impact extension, 3/4" drive, but a 1" drive is stouter and will twist less. Also, sometimes "bouncing" on the breaker bar& pipe helps to break things loose.

 

yup, right and left hand threads. they are called cones and nuts. spray a healthy dose of pb blaster on threads, nuts, and cones. if nut won't break free, try using cone socket to tighten cones just a tad. (there is a special socket for cones, suggest you get one before you round out end). do NOT try to loosen cones before nuts are off or you will bend wheel.

 

forgot to mention---use never seize when putting back together. (on all threads)

 

yep anti sezz is good dont use to much could hyd loc caps. if you heated old nuts red ya may want to replace

 

Have to disagree -- lug nuts are not to be lubricated in any way. The torque values given are all based on clean dry threads. The only exceptions I've ever seen to this is when the lug nuts are aluminum (definitely not old Ford trucks!)

 

Ditto. Never-seize is a no-no. Stud piloted standard is 450 - 500 lbs dry. Below is an article from the Fleet Owner web site that explains why. I've been hoping Stephen would come back on this and tell us what the problem was. Left vs. right hand threads is the only plausible explanation to my mind. Stu

Debunking a myth

 

Anti seize compounds are not lubricants. I used to have a dump truck with duals and I used anti-seize on it for years. I NEVER had a lug or cone come loose because of anti-seize and believe me, I have had those big duals off and on more times than I'd like to count. I routinely hauled and pulled loads far in excess of that trucks specified limits for ten years. I used anti-seize compound on it and never had a problem. Furthermore, if you look up the torque specs for any bolt or threaded part in a good source like the machinists handbook you will find that there are specific multipliers for torque specs that take into consideration lubricated and non lubricated applications. Anti-seize compounds are widely used and approved by engineers in all sorts of applications in industry that far exceed the demand on wheel lugs. I've had big trucks that were so bad I had to heat the nut bright orange to get them off. Most of the bigger trucks came with a special lug wrench that had a square socket in one end for the cones. You can get one a place that sells parts and supplies for big trucks and equipment. Don't try to use a crescent wrench on them even though it's tempting. If you are not sure about the condition of the nuts and cones when you get them off I suggest you get new ones. It could be one of those pay now or pay later kind of things.

Later Man...

 

Buy an impact wrench. Next to a floor jack it will be one of the best investments you ever made. I don't know how I survived without one so long! I never use lug wrenches anymore...

 

The part you didn't get... You will need at least a 3/4" drive impact wrench for that size truck, and forget those electric things because they won't get those lug nuts off. Forget the cheap Chinese junk too because they won't last long and probably just come apart in your hands. And BTW, a big 3/4" impact takes a big air compressor unless you want to wait for 5 minutes at a time between attempts. Then there is the cost of 3/4" impact sockets... A floor jack that will be big enough for that truck in terms of lifting capacity and lift height will not be a cheap item either but you probably will need one as you continue your love affair with that beast.

Here's a much easier solution, take the thing to a truck tire shop and they will have them off in no time and probably only charge you twenty bucks.

Later Man...

 

This discussion never fails to start an argument. It comes down to whether you accept testimonials from guys that haven't had a problem, or maybe who learned their trade by OJT from the older guys out in the shop, or whether you accept the guidelines published by every manufacturer. Stu