I am a regional sales and service manager for the largest hub manufacturer in the US. We produce a good majority of the class eight truck and trailer hubs (think semi-truck if you dont know classes) as well as medium duty applications.

The ONLY thing that is permitted on the wheel studs is TWO and I mean TWO, drops of light oil on the very last two threads of the stud. If you use an anti-seize or oil on all of the threads or most of them, you will in effect create a more efficient slip between the threads which can multiply torque values during reassembly. I have been on a number of broken stud visits in which my findings have pointed directly to technicians lubricating the stud with oil or anti corrosive pastes.

I always teach in my classes that its better to ensure that the threads of both the nut and the studs are clean, a wire brush will take care of that. Once the threads are clean you can forget the oil bussiness I mentioned above. Its more importanat to make sure the threads are clean!

Studs have a anti corrosive coating on them. If the studs you are working with are very old or you suspect that the coating is LONG gone it is best to replace the studs and avoid the head aches.

Steve, let us know how you made out!

 

Hey I heard there was gonna be a fight over here.

I know nothing about these lug nuts and anti seize, but can I argue anyway? LOL

 

lol remember when this was about getting off those lug nuts?

And... ah crap I think you're right. Worst part is I CHECKED before I started to turn, and I know this as I found it interesting when I put them on! Well at least I only tightened one to absolute death...

 

Fight??? What fight??? OH! Look out!!! There comes a flying lug nut... Oh that's going to leave a nasty mark.

Sure... Jump right in, so far as I can tell knowledge has never been an absolute requirement here, but body armor and a helmet might come in handy...

 

Does your company use this standard for both stud piloted and hub piloted applications, or just hub piloted? If both that would be a change from what my older references say. Stud piloted have always had a dry standard. And if that applies to both type mounts, what torque standards do you use for each? Stu

 

please everyone, keep your nuts to yourselves.......

 

I like Dave's solution

Work smarter not harder! The Trucks work hard enough for us!

 

lol $20? Right now I'm being so nickled and dimed on the project it's unbelievable, I'd have to be out there all day for $20 for this project, lol

 

The best of vehicles are by nature a wasting asset. These old trucks are money pits no matter how cheap you try to do the work. Buying one of these things is just like sticking the hose from one of those big vacuum trucks in your wallet. The only way to come out ahead is to buy one, never move it and sell it for more in the next five minutes to someone who will pay more than you did. Of course if you are willing to accept this and don't care, then it's a great hobby and a lot of fun. I'd still spend the time and less of it to go mow somebody's lawn for the twenty bucks while the truck gets it's nuts removed.

Later Man...

 

My step-dad used to say that about his old fords

"These damm things will nickle and dime you to death".

which reminds me of those lovely Ford Acronyms!

Ford = Fixed Or RePaired Daily

 

Unless you let it sit, any vehicle that is driven requires maintenance. With these old Trucks, instead of paying the bank, you pay the mechanic.

and you gotta pay to drive.

I remember in one of my automotive classes, there was a calculation for breaking down the average cost per mile based on the cost of the vehicle, maintenance required, vehicles life expectency, ect..

 

The only thing is, what do you do when they get the nuts off? Are they just going to re-install them loose? Owning a Big Truck requires certain investments, a way to remove the wheels for routine brake and suspension work is probably an important one. Then you can figure out how to manhandle them up onto the studs -- not like doing a 14" alloy wheel on a Honda!

 

It is said on both types of mounting systems you are permitted to use a light oil on the studs, last two threads, two drops. Problem I have with that is what you and I might consider two drops, the next guy puts to HUGE squirts of oil down across all the threads. So I try and steer the technicians away from using oil at all. Just make sure the studs are clean.

On the HP mounting system the nuts are flange nuts so you are also allowed to lubricate the joint between the flange and the nut.

more than you ever wanted to know about nutz!!!

 

well i guess im on the opposite end of the spectrum of you guys... i work at a factory manufacturing farm equipment and we usr large wheels/tires (22.5 wheels) on8 or 10 bolt hubs, the boss says loctite EVERYTHING, studs included. also being a farmer on the side, i know i woukd be very irked trying to remove a loctited 1.5" lugnut, let alone 40 of them! even with my nice 1/2" air impact. ( we use a 1" impact at work)

 

Some Loctite has a sealing function rather than a locking function. Which Loctite # do you use? It may be to keep the threads from corroding, which makes sense for farm equipment. That might actually make them easier to remove.