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Old May 30, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #16  
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powerstroker100
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also I've been reading other people on the internets that have a similar deal to me and I've seen that people are posting the light should always come on for a second or two if truck is at operating temp, I am in foreign territory with this engine ask me anything about a 6.0 and I can help you but with this its *** backwards for me, forgive my ignorance and constant questioning about whats this and what is that? I like to know/learn as much as possible about my vehicle and take the best care of it as possible and thank all of you for all the help you have given me so far
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 06:10 PM
  #17  
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The only thing that might be of concern is if you hear rapid clacking of the relay almost like a bad starter solenoid shuddering. However if its holding on or off for a few seconds at a time before changine, that is normal. But 10 minutes after shut down isn't enough to warrant glow plugs again.

The controller itself uses a closed loop electronic feedback control on the 1987-1994 model of IDI diesels. What it does is take a resistance reading through the power wires of the glow plugs to esimate how hot the glow plug tips are getting (hot conductors have higher resistance). If they are already at a certain temperature, the controller will not turn it on at all. There is no computer intigration with other systems in the truck and the controller acts completely on its own as long as the ignition is on.

Looking at the wiring diagram, I think the controller is however integrated into the temperature switch on the engine. So if its cold enough for the high idle and cold idle advance to be on, it will operate differently than when its above that thresh hold.

My 1986 uses a bimetal switch controller that is self contained and mounted with the bottom exposed to the water jacket of the cylinder head. Mine sometimes will give a quick split second flash of the glow plug light even when hot, but never gives anything resembling a full prestart glow when the engine is hot enough to have the high idle shut off.
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by David85
Looking at the wiring diagram, I think the controller is however integrated into the temperature switch on the engine. So if its cold enough for the high idle and cold idle advance to be on, it will operate differently than when its above that thresh hold.
The key on 12V source is the same for the controller and the cold high idle/ advance. But they work separately from each other.

I may have mislead on the operation. After a 40 minute drive, the controller should not cycle after 10 minutes of sitting. But, how warm did the engine get on your first drive when it was cycling? Was it completely warmed up?

Jason
 
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Old May 30, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RCrawler
The key on 12V source is the same for the controller and the cold high idle/ advance. But they work separately from each other.

I may have mislead on the operation. After a 40 minute drive, the controller should not cycle after 10 minutes of sitting. But, how warm did the engine get on your first drive when it was cycling? Was it completely warmed up?

Jason
It was about half way to normal operating temperature, by the way family guy is hilarious
 
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Old May 31, 2010 | 12:21 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by powerstroker100
It was about half way to normal operating temperature, by the way family guy is hilarious
It may have not been warmed up enough.

Jason
 
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Old May 31, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #21  
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everything your describing here powerstroker is 100% normal and functioning properly.
you cant compare your 93 to that 6.9 because the GP controllers are different.
the newer style like you have is advanced,and reads the temps.if the temp is warm enough,she will not do anything,all you need to do is hit the key and your running.

the cold start,you will see the Volt gauge and hear rapid clicks after the WTS light goes out.perfectly normal.just start the truck when you see the WTS go out.
the rapid clicks on the cold start is keeping the cylinders warm,waiting for you.and if you hurry and start it,those rapid clicks (GP cycles) will be used as afterglow and provide a smoother running cold engine (very helpful in the winter.)
everythings good.with 1-2 second start times,id say perfect in fact.

pretty much everything thats been said already.just wording a little different and agreeing.
 
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by powerstroker100
also I've been reading other people on the internets that have a similar deal to me and I've seen that people are posting the light should always come on for a second or two if truck is at operating temp, I am in foreign territory with this engine ask me anything about a 6.0 and I can help you but with this its *** backwards for me, forgive my ignorance and constant questioning about whats this and what is that? I like to know/learn as much as possible about my vehicle and take the best care of it as possible and thank all of you for all the help you have given me so far
Convert it to a manual pushbutton. Best thing I ever did to my truck, and it kept another 7.3 truck I worked on from going to the dump after it was passed from one owner to another who could not get it to start reliably.

I compare the factory glowplug system to "automatic" 4wd drive hubs. Yes when it's new it works fine, but get a little age on it with a combination of cold weather, and you can't depend on it. Everyone would much rather get out of the truck and turn the hubs manually and know they are "in". Same way with a manual glowplug switch. Push the switch, the voltmeter drops, and you know they are getting warm and ready to fire the engine. Get a bad glowplug or two, the automatic system will not work. Use a manual switch, and I have started my engine in the winter with 3 bad glowplugs.
 
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