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On my 93 7.3, when I turn the key on the wait to start light comes on for 10-15 seconds and I can hear the relay click on, but after it clicks off, it clicks on and off erratically until I try to start it. If I turn the key off, it will not go through the same cycle. The wait to start light comes on then goes back off quickly and starts clicking again. I have new glow plugs and a new glow plug relay. Any thoughts?
It's working correctly. The clicking after the wts goes off is called afterglow, which is to help keep it running after it starts. When you try to cycle it again, the controller senses that the plugs are already warm and doesn't heat as long.
Everything you need to know about the glow plug system is in the sticky threads at the top of this forum.
Mine used to do this. When it started and was running, it would white smoke and splutter for a minute. It done this for awhile but I wasn't too concerned with it as it started OK when it was cold. Got to looking one day and one of the glow plug wires was unplugged under the turbo. Can't believe I didn't see it sooner. Last winter I was having starting issues and replaced all the glow plugs (zd9's) and I now realize that the relay doesn't cycle like that anymore. Is my controller bad? The wts light comes on and stays lit for 15 seconds or so.
It's a little difficult to start cold, especially after sitting a few days.
Mine used to do this. When it started and was running, it would white smoke and splutter for a minute. It done this for awhile but I wasn't too concerned with it as it started OK when it was cold. Got to looking one day and one of the glow plug wires was unplugged under the turbo. Can't believe I didn't see it sooner. Last winter I was having starting issues and replaced all the glow plugs (zd9's) and I now realize that the relay doesn't cycle like that anymore. Is my controller bad? The wts light comes on and stays lit for 15 seconds or so.
It's a little difficult to start cold, especially after sitting a few days.
Your "fast clicking relay" is a different style of fast clicking, and a totally different issue. What the O.P. described is totally normal. What yours most likely sounded like was a short, 2-3 second single click, and then a bunch of fast clicks. That's what happens when the GPC doesn't see the right resistance across the board for all the glow plugs.
What your GPC is doing now sounds normal. 10-15 second burn time for a glow plug is just fine. You probably just don't hear it anymore, because the amount of power required for afterglow on new plugs isn't near as much as old plugs, so your relay isn't going to click on and off as often as it used to.
And your issue with starting after sitting for a few days is fuel related, not heat related. Do your return lines and see if that fixes the problem.
The return lines are fairly new with no visible signs of wetness. I also have a carrier e-pump. Any suggestions?
Did you replace the "olive" o-rings when you did your return lines? There's one at the filter head, one at the hard line going from filter head to rear of injection pump, and a third one at the rear of the hard return lines. Those o-rings are the most often neglected part of doing return lines, and cause all sorts of stupid problems on otherwise healthy systems.
Did you replace the "olive" o-rings when you did your return lines? There's one at the filter head, one at the hard line going from filter head to rear of injection pump, and a third one at the rear of the hard return lines. Those o-rings are the most often neglected part of doing return lines, and cause all sorts of stupid problems on otherwise healthy systems.
I have done away with the hard line going to the IP. New fittings with rubber fuel line.
And the one at the back of the engine where the return lines turn into a hard line?
The one that goes into the little block at the back of the engine on the driver's side? I figured the e-pump should take care of all the intrusion problems anyway.
The one that goes into the little block at the back of the engine on the driver's side? I figured the e-pump should take care of all the intrusion problems anyway.
It masks the problems more than it fixes them. And it will make re-priming the fuel system faster and easier. I still think your issue is fuel related. You should probably start a new thread to get more attention specific to your problem.
Thanks lindstromjd. I'll check that out. Been battling this for awhile now. I don't smell any significant diesel under the hood, but it's going somewhere. Sorry for the hijacked thread fifty-two_f1.
Thanks lindstromjd. I'll check that out. Been battling this for awhile now. I don't smell any significant diesel under the hood, but it's going somewhere. Sorry for the hijacked thread fifty-two_f1.
Air leaks in faster and easier than fuel leaks out. Smaller molecular structure.
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