return lines
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
You'll also need to replace the o-rings. Last set I did I simply replaced the o-rings and the fuel line, I got bulk line from the local auto parts place. I re-used my caps, seemed to work without issue, it was a couple years ago, so I likely should think about doing it again. (It is taking a little longer to start now, but the truck really should have a fresh set of injectors and an IP too.)
I would be hesitant to say that clear fuel line would handle the heat though that close to the engine, these things get pretty hot.
I would be hesitant to say that clear fuel line would handle the heat though that close to the engine, these things get pretty hot.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Or better yet, Viton Return O-Rings - McMaster-Carr Item 9464K24, 16 required.
For hose you want Buna-N (Nitrile) minimum, preferable Viton ... 3/16" for the 6.9, 1/4" for 7.3.
Buna-N (nitrile) Fuel Hose
Viton® Fluoroelastomer Tubing
You'll need about 3 feet, Viton is expensive, ~$12 a foot, you'll never replace it again!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
For hose you want Buna-N (Nitrile) minimum, preferable Viton ... 3/16" for the 6.9, 1/4" for 7.3.
Buna-N (nitrile) Fuel Hose
Viton® Fluoroelastomer Tubing
You'll need about 3 feet, Viton is expensive, ~$12 a foot, you'll never replace it again!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
Or better yet, Viton Return O-Rings - McMaster-Carr Item 9464K24, 16 required.
For hose you want Buna-N (Nitrile) minimum, preferable Viton ... 3/16" for the 6.9, 1/4" for 7.3.
Buna-N (nitrile) Fuel Hose
Viton® Fluoroelastomer Tubing
You'll need about 3 feet, Viton is expensive, ~$12 a foot, you'll never replace it again!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
For hose you want Buna-N (Nitrile) minimum, preferable Viton ... 3/16" for the 6.9, 1/4" for 7.3.
Buna-N (nitrile) Fuel Hose
Viton® Fluoroelastomer Tubing
You'll need about 3 feet, Viton is expensive, ~$12 a foot, you'll never replace it again!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
so as long as I replace the o-rigs I don't have to get new caps right?.....other people keep saying I should get knew caps but they look just fine so I don't know......and I think I already have the o-rigs I got a gasket set from felpro that had a pack of o-rigs with it but it didn't say what they where for I'm guessing it's either for the return lines or the valve stems cause it came with valve stem seals (didn't use them)
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
If you don't know the age of the caps - replace!
Two reasons, they warp, they get brittle and crack with age.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Two reasons, they warp, they get brittle and crack with age.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
I did the return lines on my truck this winter before putting the turbo on. Truck has estimated 195,000 miles on mostly original parts. The return lines and caps were definitely original as the factory grey paint was still visible in most places (under layers of dirt and grease).
I did the cheap route
, went to Napa and bought like 10 feet of 3/16 fuel line (hey it never hurts to have extra...) The o-rings were from McMaster Carr at about $5-6 shipped for a pack of 50 (plenty of extras...). The only problem I had was a few of the metal clips were screwed up, but I was able to fix that with a kit from the Help! section of Advance Auto. I lubed the hell out of the o-rings with a tube of silicone grease (like dielectric stuff) Reused all the plastic caps, as they looked fine at the time.
Seems to be holding fine, and cost was probably less than $15, and I have enough fuel line to do it again, and two more sets of o-rings. Unfortunately, I think it I should be replacing the injectors and pump sometime soon, but really can't afford that
I did the cheap route
, went to Napa and bought like 10 feet of 3/16 fuel line (hey it never hurts to have extra...) The o-rings were from McMaster Carr at about $5-6 shipped for a pack of 50 (plenty of extras...). The only problem I had was a few of the metal clips were screwed up, but I was able to fix that with a kit from the Help! section of Advance Auto. I lubed the hell out of the o-rings with a tube of silicone grease (like dielectric stuff) Reused all the plastic caps, as they looked fine at the time.Seems to be holding fine, and cost was probably less than $15, and I have enough fuel line to do it again, and two more sets of o-rings. Unfortunately, I think it I should be replacing the injectors and pump sometime soon, but really can't afford that
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