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I have been having problems withthe door locks, key pad and the interior light staying on when I have stopped and closed the door. Also I get a false "door ajar" code. It was intermittent and got steadily worse. I finall turned off the twilight sensor / timer that keeps the lights on to find the door when the car is parked. Problem solved. The question is, can I replace the headlight switch module without a degree in electrical engineering and a few thousand dollars of test equipment. Also, the left rear window no longer works from either the master panel or the door switch. Connectec to the above?? Still doesnt work.
The symptoms you describe have been addressed quite a few times on this forum. In the future, please try the "Search this forum" feature so we don't end up with several threads on the same topic.
The door ajar indication and possibly the power window issue are likely due to a broken wire within the flexible wire loom between the driver's door and the cabin. Unfortunately common issue with this generation of Explorer and Mountaineer.
The power window issue could be the same type of scenario, possibly in the left rear wiring loom. If you can read and follow a wiring diagram, I'd suggest you start at that driver's power window switch, check for broken wires, then work your way back to the left rear door to find the break.
Changing the headlight switch will likely have no effect on the issues you described above, but sadly would probably be an easier repair that what you're in for. But then again, I DO have a degree in electrical engineering.
The window problem has been determined to be a bad motor, and only coincidental to the door adjar and lock problems. Some water leaked into the motor and finished that off. That repair is done.
I am going to pull the unit today and see what is up. I am looking for some specs on the pot to see if it is in tolerance. I suspect it is the rheostat (if that is what they still call them now).
But keep in mind that the interior light portion of the dimmer switch is not part of the potentiometer, it is a separate switch. Also, that circuit will have no impact on the door ajar indicator. I think ultimately you'll find the problem is a problem either with a broken wire in the wire harness as mentioned above or a problem with the door pin switch in the door latch (also a common problem). I'd suggest you try the "Search this forum" feature for keyword "ajar" just to see how common these issues are and what the typical solutions are.
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