it's like anything else , if you want it it can be made to fit ...... i wanna say there was at one time someone on here with a 56 that had it under there's . frames should be the same width as you fridge's .

 

Tim has it right. The only other thing that I would add is a hint that I got from one of the Jag guys on the installation of the Jag. If you mount your power steering pump on the drivers side (same side as the pinion in the r and p), do not use very short lines between the pump and pinion. Note that they will be very close if you mount the pump low and to the left. I was told that there was a pulsing problem with that configuration. I plan to run the lines back and forward a bit inside my boxed drivers side frame rail since with the sbc the pump is low and to the left. Note that I have not personnally had this experience and am only reporting what I was told. I can't remember if it was a Brit on a right hand drive car or one of the conversion guys putting a sbc in a xj6.

 

I do not know of someone personally that has done it however I believe that your frame rail width and configuration are about the same as the 53-56 frame, i.e. 34 inches wide outside of rail to outside of rail. Others have done it on 53-56 frames notably Holmsey and Aussie 53. The 53 and on frames are 2 inches wider in the front than the F1-F6 rails (the earlier frames are 34" in the rear but "pinched in" in the front to 32"). This results in a little more fabrication to clear the upper suspension wishbone.
Others, particularly in England and Australia have put the XJ IFS in many different vehicles.
Note that the track width will be good however where is the sump on your engines in the 57-60? Deep front sump engines (typical Ford configuration-post flathead) could be a problem.
EDIT:
It looks like Y blocks have a rear sump. I guess that I do not know which Ford engines are front sump other that the Windsor series of sbf and at least 390, 427, 460 bbf. Anyone?

 

Thanks for the info willard. Just trying to figure out which would be the best way to go if a guy was going to put an IFS under a '58. What makes the Jag a better choice then say a MII or a Volare? And I'm concerned about price and availability of replacement parts like upper and lower control arm bushings, rack, calipers, pads, mounting donuts, ect. From what I'd read in another thread it sound like most if not all of the mounting hardware on the Jag is actually SAE thread which really suprised me, only the brake fittings were a funky setup. And I dont know how much the Jag setup would lower the front end, which is something I want to do, about 4 inches or so total. Sorry for all the questions but its something I'm not familiar with at all.

 

Something else to consider is going with an aftermarket pump. Mel Klushman at Klushman Racing Components sells a really nice P/S pump that I believe is adjustable on the pressure side and its nice and small.

 

I have done a lot of research on the Jag IFS regarding parts availability. The parts are readily available and prices are NOT excessive. Just do a search for Jaguar parts and many sources will appear. A word of caution, try to avoid Jag specialty stores. As a general rule these places have a tendency to charge a premium for their parts.
As for lowering your stance, a Jag IFS will lower your ride height 1-3 inches depending on how it is mounted. One slick thing about the Jag suspension, the spring sets in the lower control arm on a removable plate. You can make a spacer to lower this plate which in turn will lower the spring and your front stance.
It's my opinion, which is shared by many, the Jag IFS is a better choice for the F1 and F100 trucks than a Mustang II design. The Jag is designed for a heavier load than a typical M II suspension, and is a whole lot easier installation. Of course opinions differ but I'm sold on the Jag conversion. Tim

 

My comments would be that the Jag is cheaper and requires less welding that either a M II or a Volare. Tim above addressed the parts-$ issue (it is not an issue). The jag IFS on my F-1 lowered the front a good 4 inches. Go back to my question about engine choice and oil pan sump location in particular.

 

Bill has made some good points on your engine choice regarding the sump. If you use a windsor set up the sump pan is generally at the rear of the motor which will relieve sum of the clearance issues in the Jag cross memember. The Cleveland motor has a front sump pan which you have to change or modify the pan. Your choice of the Jag set up is a good choice. But just remember one thing, don't expect to have the smoothest ride because you have a Jag IFS. Because you still have a IFS system built in the 80's, at the time it was one of the advance systems going around compared to others. Have fun installing it because it's no that hard.

Aussie 53

 

Thanks everyone Im listening!

 

what do I do to get the IFS set at the correct angle...front to back.
I don't know where its supposed to be.
It seems to me that I can use the bottom side and get it relatively level from front to back is that gonna work?

 

The jag crossmember should be level from front to back. With the truck assembled and tires and rims of choice, set a torpedo (or other) level in the center of the crossmember positioned fore and aft. Then fabricate your jag to frame mounts with the jag crossmember level. I set the rear mounts (with a wedge) first and then adjusted the front mount height to suit. In my case, that positioned the top of the front mount just about 3/4 inches below the lower frame flange at the centerline of the horizontal thru bolts going thru the jag rubber bushing. I have not fabricated my front mount yet since I want to finalize it with the fully assembled truck. I curriently have 3/4 blocks of wood maintaining the spacing discribed above.

 

Thanks Bill, yeah I spent a lot of time this morning looking through your pics. I think I am gonna "copy cat" your shock mounts.
I look though your pics and it makes me sigh cause I got a long road ahead of me...
nice work Bill!

 

Glad to see the JAG IFS is working out so far. Sorry I have been out of the loop for a while and did not follow up on a few of these post. Looks like you got a lot of really good info from the rest of the group. Post lots of pics and good luck on this build.

 

Hey how are ya f100newb!
Don't go away too far...its not in yet!
Okay I was wanting to use the old steering column with the Jag "Z" knuckle. Now the original gearbox is a good solid box so I don't want to tear it up but I need a steering shaft.
I have never needed to do ANYTHING with any steering shaft before so Im a little green on this subject. I was told to cut but Im not sure thats what I want to do, especially if it is part of the box.
Or should I go with a column that will make this easier? I just was hoping to retain the original look in the cab...

 

you may have to cut it jeff if you want to retain the oe column / appearance and use a borgeson coupler . or get another column . i got that 91 bird column here that was a rack and pinion setup , and you can remove the ignition switch and multi purpose switch and either fabricate a cover or maybe your oe one can be made to work with it if you want it . i just want the wheel as it doesnt have an air bag in it , for my 95 . i got the keys to it too if you wanted to retain the ignition switch . it isn't hard just measure , allow for the couplers and whack . at least that's what we did to some of the hideous looking arrangments on some of the dirt cars we "built" in swapping parts from car to car ...................... when i was gonna do the crazy stuff i measured all the angles etc. of everything from the strut towers to the arms front to rear side to side , before i did anything . gave me a reference point in case i got lost ................ welp gotta wander off to work now . im so glad i gave up the ifs , irs craziness .... for now , as i don't think bessie would've been the same . but as i say we still got a cherry frame that needs to be played with in storage !!!!!!!!!!!!!