I was sick of the surge but wasn't ready to pony up for the 38R (and everything to support it) that I really want. So I went with the ported compressor housing for now. I got it from Clay (thanks again man), it is the "USA" one I have seen pictured on ITP Diesel's site. The letters on the housing have been ground off but the silicone inlet tube still says USA on it. I would like to install it soon and did some searching and reading earlier today.

It seems there is no real difference between this and the ATS one. Confirm / Deny? I'm really just curious if they come from two different sources, or are the same exact thing just re-branded.

I got the o-ring kit too. It has three small ones, are they just for if I pull the turbo off the pedestal? I plan to swap the housing without completely removing the turbo, so do I just re-use the big o-ring? Is it true the big one is not available in the aftermarket whatsoever?

It sounds like I need 12 point sockets and/or ratcheting wrenches. And I should use loctite putting it back together. Am I missing any little gotchas?

Thanks for any tips, advice, pictures, links, etc. that might help with the install. I am hoping this little upgrade cures my PMS for a while.

 

One more question I forgot to remember. I've seen it mentioned that you need to re-do the wastegate arm with the new housing. I've also seen 8-10 psi mentioned as the best pressure to shoot for. I have a hand vacuum/pressure pump and can get it set exactly where I want it.

In the Subaru world it is a general rule to aim for wastegate pressure that's half of the maximum boost you plan to run. So with hitting ~ 25psi with my DP Tuner, would it hurt anything to set the wastegate to 12-13 psi?

 

Yes you will need to shorten the wastegate actuator rod. The mounting tab cast in the ported housing is closer to the wastegate so the distance will be less. I didn't know this when I did mine and couldn't figure out why I was down on boost. Had to go back and shorten it up. As for setting it, to get it exactly right you may need to adjust it a time or two. But I just shortened it up so it was pretty tight, but still allowed the wastegate to open and it was just about right. I finally got sick of messing with the stupid e-clip on the actuator rod and forked over the money for a Turbomaster adjustable actuator. Now it's easy to adjust. Probably a little over priced and unnecessary but if you think you'll want to go that route do it when you do the housing so you're only there once.

As for tools I just used 1/4 drive ratchet and sockets and maybe a short extension. And a good pick set for the e-clip.

As for the large o-ring on the outlet, it is advisable to use a new one. Clay has them, at least he sent me a new one. You might get away with reusing it, but who wants to take a chance with an o-ring that costs a couple dollars?

I don't remember if i used loctite on the bolts though, I don't think I did.

 

edit: I'm an idiot. The correct o-ring was sent to me, it was in a very small package and twisted up to look like three smaller ones. Doh!

Thanks for the reply Keith, I will check out that actuator. I have also seen new / different clips mentioned, does anybody have part numbers handy?

 

Just re-use the existing o-ring. That's what most do.

 

One more question... Is the torque spec for those bolts really 15 ft/lbs?

 

I don't know the exact torque spec but with a short 1/4" drive ratchet it's about half a grunt.

LOL at your o-ring, I remember thinking the same thing. Thought I got 3 small o-rings until I finally took it out of the bag.