Been working on the thing for 8 hours today. No one in Anchorage has a 12 point 8mm or 5/16th 1/4" drive socket so I used a 12 point 3/8 drive and was able to get four of the housing bolts out without issue.

The back lower one was a major pain, especially with the wiring harness in the way. Eventually got it out, spent over an hour just on this one bolt.

Went to install the new ATS housing and had four of the five bolts in, tightened evenly.

I checked the compressor wheel and it was locked up solid. Ugh. Not sure what why it would be like this but did some reading and some people have reported it was difficult to get it bolted down so the wheel could spin freely.

Decided to try the lower back bolt, and it dropped into the abyss. Dammit. Still haven't found it.

Decided I would have the best chance of aligning the new ATS housing up with the turbo out of the truck, and would hopefully be able to find the missing bolt. Plus I need to replace my pedestal o rings since they are leaking pretty bad anyway. Figured it would be a win-win all around.

So I started pulling the turbo and everything has gone smoothly except the back V clamp, the one on the drivers side. It is stuck on there and I can't pry it off. The cramped spaces make it even more difficult. So I decided to call it a night and let it soak in penetrating oil.

I need the truck running by the end of tomorrow. Any advice on how to get this damn clamp off?

If I can't find the compressor housing bolt I dropped, will a grade 8.8 of matched thread and length from the hardware store work alight?

For the price I am pretty disappointed in this ATS housing. The casting looks like garbage and even the purple finish is uneven and over sprayed. I am also concerned it might be out of spec since it was contacting the turbo wheel when I first tried to mount it.

I have an 800 mile fairly heavy tow coming up on the 21st and really wanted to get my turbo surge fixed. If the compressor housing is out of spec, there is no way I could get another one in time.

Ugh...

Also does anyone know the torq spec for the bolts that hold the turbo and pedestal?

 

When it comes to vband clamps I take a screw driver to the inside of the clamp and pry them up when there a pita. If that doesn't work I get out the LFH (not to be mixed up with BFH)and a small chisel and or wedge and beat them up and thell eventually pop off. I haven't ruined one doing it this way yet plus I have a few extra in the garage I had laying around.

 

The housing has to be bolted on evenly and torqued in increments, that way it sits evenly, or you will lock up the shaft. you can use a grade 8, i believe its a 8x1.25 replacement bolt if you cant find the original. I never used the ATS compressor housing, I have used Banks and never had a problem, I allways remove the turbo, and you should change the turbine with an after market thats were you get the boost from.

 

When working on something with many small parts - three tricks:

Clean work area - a lone part lost on the table or the floor is easier to find than a part in a pile. For really small parts, I put down a "tablecloth" so parts don't roll away and the small parts are much easier to find.

Magnets. Have a magnet tea party, with a bunch of them as a barrier around your work area, a magnetic bowl or roll-up, magnet on an extension, magnetic rake or sweeper, etc....

If you lose something and you know it's in the truck somewhere - shine some light in that area and repeat exactly how you lost it (with a less-valuable part similar to the one you lost). Doing this, I have found more lost parts than you would believe.

I have nothing on the housing, sorry.

 

The penetrating oil should yield some positive results. I did the same as John2001. Didn't matter if the vband was on there for 2 years or 10, for me it was always a PITA.... Try to get a "cats claw" type screwdriver or small pry bar that will follow the radius better than a flat tool. With all other parts disconnected from the turbo try and move the turbo back and forth and she just might pop out.

As Tugly said - with a good magnet and a bright flashlight you will find the missing bolt. But I'm still missing the rubber end of a screwdriver handle in my F-250 engine bay since 2007.

 

return the housing and slap a W.W. in there

 

Those marmon clamps, I had good luck with an open end wrench, either 1/2 " or whatever wedged just right and they pop right off. Just did this last week on the back one to remove turbo.

 

Had my turbo out 2 weekends ago. Even with newer clamps they can be a pain. I used a large flat head screw driver and gave it a couple good taps with a hammer. I went the WW route myself with my turbo surge issue. Hope your issues are figured out. Be careful with tightening up the compressor housing, it is aluminum you know and threads do pull out quite easily. Ask me how I know

 

I agree with what all said about the clamps. They can be a pain.

If you still need:

I believe torque for bolts are:
turbo pedestal bolts = 18 ft. lbs.
turbo mounting bolts = 35 ft. lbs